The tokyo mods spring is for the FCR CR/MX, from 2003+.
You cannot use that spring
You have to use safety wire to link the throttle and apump linkage together.
Go to Sudco.com for diagrams and part numbers
Thank you for the reply. I have used a band included in my JD jet kit to tie the linkages together. Another question for you KoolAid.
1. The extra space that is present in the black linkage that holds the AP pin, could wrapping safety wire, say 4-6 times, would that be adequate fill the extra space in the pin holder to take up the mm of slack that I am sure is creating some of the bog?
2. I have measured the depth of the Boyeson AP cover, which is the same depth as the diaphragm bracket that sits with in it. My AP would not work or move due to that measurement being the same, and the squirt was almost non existent. I ground down the pin on the diaphragm about 2mm, and now it squirts well, but what appears to be too long, about 2 seconds. The goal is to be around .5 secs if I am not mistaken, as there is no leak jet present in this year carb to help offset that amount being shot by the AP, correct? The squirt does not hit the slide either (But in a side note, the float valve was cracked almost all the way through. Dodged a bullet there.)
If I put another diaphragm in and grind down the pin again, adjusting the pin length, less removed than what I did before, that should lessen the AP squirt time, correct?
I only ask, as before I ground the pin in the diaphragm down (when it was tight in the cover and the AP pin did not move), the bog was present. I imagine this bog with no AP movement was due to no fuel being shot from the AP. Conversely, too much fuel also causes the bog, so the trick is finding the sweet spot ( at <.5 secs, right?)
Thanks for your help.