Need help installing HID into 2003 WR450 Please....


9 replies to this topic
  • temptation2003

Posted March 21, 2012 - 05:31 PM

#1

HI Everyone,

So long story short, today I tried to install the cheap ebay hid kit I bought for my 2003 Yamaha Wr450 and it was going sooo easy until I got everything hooked up and started the bike.... No matter what i try all the bulb does is sit there and flicker... I hooked up a anti-flicker capacitor "from ebay" and then the light wouldn't fire at all.?? Anyone have any suggestions on what to do or how to fix the problem??

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted March 21, 2012 - 05:40 PM

#2

Is the ballast good? Its supposed to help provide stable power to the light.

You may not have enough power. Did you wire it directly to the battery? Does it work if you connect it directly to the battery.

Remember, HID runs off of DC. You just can't plug it into the existing light socket on the WR, which is a 55w AC circuit.

I have a cheapo HID kit on my bike that's been working well for about three years now. I got it from DDMTuning. But first, I installed their 100w DC stator and rectifier. It works perfectly and is pretty durable.

But... I did u

  • dustdogg

Posted March 21, 2012 - 06:27 PM

#3

Is the ballast good? Its supposed to help provide stable power to the light.

You may not have enough power. Did you wire it directly to the battery? Does it work if you connect it directly to the battery.

Remember, HID runs off of DC. You just can't plug it into the existing light socket on the WR, which is a 55w AC circuit.

I have a cheapo HID kit on my bike that's been working well for about three years now. I got it from DDMTuning. But first, I installed their 100w DC stator and rectifier. It works perfectly and is pretty durable.

But... I did u


I agree. Sounds like it is not wired directly to the battery (DC). I have the Airtime HID on my '07 that works great but also required the Baja Designs stator mod (ground float), regulator rectifier and an on/off switch. Check your install and do a little research as to how an HID needs to be wired compared to the stock headlight which runs off AC.

  • temptation2003

Posted March 21, 2012 - 06:39 PM

#4

Ahhh. Ok I didn't realize I needed to wire it directly to the battery and that the oem plug was ac current. I will try again tomorrow and see how things go. Thanks for the fast replies and great answers guys, I truely appreciate it! :thumbsup:

  • temptation2003

Posted March 24, 2012 - 06:12 PM

#5

I just wanted to say thank you guys again for the replies! Everything is wired up to the battery now and works good, Im going to post a video of it on youtube later tomorrow so once it is uploaded I will post the link here. Thanks again!!

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  • temptation2003

Posted March 26, 2012 - 01:54 AM

#6

Here is a link to my install of the 8000k Hids

  • dustdogg

Posted March 26, 2012 - 06:01 PM

#7

Nice job. I'm curious to see how well it works at night and at speed. The reason I say that is because I upgraded the bulb (not HID) on my 426 and although it was brighter, I had trouble getting the light where I needed it. That seems to be the problem that limits the stock headlight, it always seemed too far out. When I tested it out at home I was happy with the results of the higher wattage bulb but when I had it out on a long desert ride I became frustrated that I could not get the light aimed low enough even after maxing out the adjuster. I never messed with remounting the shell on the 426 because that is about the time I got my 450 and mounted up the Airtime HID which is based on the Baja Designs shell and has more adjustability. What a difference between the two. I very glad I made the change but I like your setup for the fact that it keeps the cost down and looks factory with the stock shell.

Another thing to think about is your battery. You might find yourself with a dead battery after a ride because the stock charging system is really only powerful enough to keep the battery charged under "normal" conditions like using the E start. It looks as though you did not change your regulator/rectifier and "float" the ground on your stock stator or replace it with an aftermarket unit. What this does is eliminates the AC portion from your stator and converts it to a "full" DC system allowing the battery to support high draw accessories such as HID's. Rather than me trying to explain the process myself, read this from Baja Designs http://www.bajadesig...-stator-mod.pdf


Here is another good thread dealing with your different stator options if you find yourself needing to take that route http://www.thumperta...07-stator-talk/

Good luck and thanks for sharing!!

Edited by dustdogg, March 26, 2012 - 06:04 PM.


  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted March 27, 2012 - 10:14 PM

#8

I didn't think that the HID setup draws more amps than the stock headlight. I believe that the stock one is about 55w, which is quite a bit. Technically, you should be fine since the HID H4 setup comes in either 35 or 55w configurations. I don't think you need to float the ground just for HID, but I could be wrong. I purchased the 35w version because I was concerned about the excessive heat from the 55w version. It could potentially start melting things inside the headlight housing. The 35w one is very, bright.

The HID is very durable and will not zap out on you on the trails like the incandescent bulbs (stock) will do. Feel free to run smack into a tree and your light will still work. Its very, very durable.

I have the trailtech stator because I screwed up the existing one while doing a top end. With the extra wattage, I have added a helmet light that's wired to my bike as well as a powered gps unit. I needed the extra 35 watts. My battery has never died on me. But the HID will blink and shut off on your, which is your first sign that the battery is low.

  • temptation2003

Posted March 28, 2012 - 01:43 AM

#9

I will try to take night time helmet cam footage once it warms up a little more and post it here on the same thread. I'm kind of curious to see how well everything is lit up as well at night, but from my first initial impression it should be much better than the stock headlight bulb. Thanks for the replies.

  • dustdogg

Posted March 28, 2012 - 06:52 AM

#10

I didn't think that the HID setup draws more amps than the stock headlight. I believe that the stock one is about 55w, which is quite a bit. Technically, you should be fine since the HID H4 setup comes in either 35 or 55w configurations. I don't think you need to float the ground just for HID, but I could be wrong. I purchased the 35w version because I was concerned about the excessive heat from the 55w version. It could potentially start melting things inside the headlight housing. The 35w one is very, bright.

The HID is very durable and will not zap out on you on the trails like the incandescent bulbs (stock) will do. Feel free to run smack into a tree and your light will still work. Its very, very durable.

I have the trailtech stator because I screwed up the existing one while doing a top end. With the extra wattage, I have added a helmet light that's wired to my bike as well as a powered gps unit. I needed the extra 35 watts. My battery has never died on me. But the HID will blink and shut off on your, which is your first sign that the battery is low.


I agree that an HID doesn't really draw more than a standard incondescent while runnining but it does draw quite a bit when it fires up. When I was researching and gathering everything for my HID install I also found that the WR has a split system AC/DC. The AC side powers the stock light and DC side runs the ignition, tailight etc. I can't remember off hand how many watts the DC side puts out but it isn't much. Now you hook up your HID to the battery and you may run into a problem of running the battery down because you have increased the load on the DC side that the factory system was not designed to handle. By upgrading the stator to a Trailtech, Ricky Stator, or having Baja Designs "float" the ground on your stock stator along with the proper regulator/rectifier you are effectively converting to a DC only system which now has tha capability to keep up with the higher DC draw because you are eliminating the AC side. I am by no means an expert in lighting and I'm not saying you will have a problem but it is what I discovered in my research. Maybe some others will chime in and help elxplain the ins and outs of the WR and lighting capabilities.




 
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