Yeah then go for it.  Part of the fun of these is developement/wrenching/learning.

Pulled the motor out... Now making a parts list should I replace all the internals in the bike or just use whats in there? any suggestions or anything about rebuilding the motor? I can only go as fast as the funds allow which sucks..

I have gotten the motor this far I need to remove the flywheel and some other misc stuff.. What tools do I need? I have ordered a flywheel tool and casing splitter anyother special tools?

Edited by Blaker454, 23 April 2012 - 08:47 AM.

Blaker you should seriously consider some sort of action against the guy who "fixed" your bike. People like that who don't back there work shouldnt be in business. If he is a friend I guess there isnt a whole lot you can do... but he should throw you a few dollars for all the trouble you have been through. Or you could run him out of business...

I had a dealer somehow bend a steel frame on a wr I had in their shop being worked on. I told them I wouldnt pay for the repairs, plus they owned me a new frame.... I ended up getting 2500 off of a brand new 2007 kx250f (in 2007) and I got to keep the wr. Auto mechanics can't get away with shitty work, why should a bike mechanic?   Just my 2 cents

Vernsker298, on 23 April 2012 - 11:27 AM, said:

Its been months since he has worked on the bike... He's not a friend and also not sure that he is still in business...

Splt the cases and stripped the right side completely I am going to have it v'd and welded where it is cracked.. Also not sure what bearing it is but its toasted also there wasnt a single snap ring on any transmission shaft? Could this have been the problem?

I have assembled the motor back together (I know it took awhile) went with stock replacements and a vertex piston I am having 2 problems the intake camshaft will not move once I started to torque it and also the timing chain is now way to tight to put on the camshafts as well any help?

Blaker454, on 10 July 2012 - 04:13 AM, said:

As for as the intake camshaft goes.... make sure your engine is at TDC. Use engine assembly lube or a good coating of oil on everything as you put it together. Before you tighten the camshaft down, make sure the small metal guide is properly fitted in the grove on the camshaft holder. if that little metal guide isn't fitted correctly it will cause everything to bind up. Also make sure the cams/holders are in the same spot they came off the engine.  

The chain has to be put on both cams before the camshaft retainers can be tightened down, make sure your chain tensioner is not in at this point. if you're having a hard time keeping the chain in the right spot you can zip-tie the chain to the cam until you get everything position correctly.

Well I guess the motor had run without oil flow.. there is metal transfer on the intake part that holds the cam in there is roughly 2,000ths... is there a way to save the head?

Blaker454, on 13 July 2012 - 05:25 AM, said:

it may be saveable. Can you upload a pic, I'm having a hard time imagining which part/ guide you are taking about

I will later tonight

If the surface in the head/cam journal cleans up nice with 800 grit paper it can be used if the clearance is still within margin. Plastigauge must be used. Do not run it if out of spec. A complete head must be purchased and it will come with new cam caps.

Edited by D-K, 14 July 2012 - 12:23 PM.