Brake Switch/Electrical Question


6 replies to this topic
  • crash279

Posted March 07, 2012 - 11:23 PM

#1

I just finished wiring up a hydraulic brake switch on my WR450. Everything is working great except for when I pull the brake lever the rear taillight doesn't illuminate...which kinda defeats the purpose. So here is the rundown: I have one wire, with an inline fuse, connected to one wire of the pressure switch. I have the other wire connected to the yellow wire that goes to the taillight assembly. The taillight bulb stays lit, but like I said, does not get any brighter when I hit the brake.

I broke out the multi meter and I have 12V going to the switch, but at the yellow wire connector I go from 6.8V to 7.9V when the brake lever is pulled. I'm no electrician, but as of right now I'm assuming that I have a bad switch, or is there something else that I need to investigate? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edited by crash279, March 07, 2012 - 11:24 PM.


  • Stealth13

Posted March 08, 2012 - 07:10 AM

#2

Mine only works when I press the rear brake, it costs additional money for the front sensor as well

  • ewr2004

Posted March 08, 2012 - 10:17 AM

#3

Stealth in correct, the addition of a pressure switch is only going to allow the rear brake to activate the brake light. Also, make sure you have a dual filament bulb (tail & brake).

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  • travertt

Posted March 08, 2012 - 11:42 AM

#4

I wired a hydraulic switch for the rear brake on ny '04 WR...works great. The link to the wireing diagram is below

You have to wire into the battery as part of the circuit you are creating..otherwise you have an unpowered circuit. Where have you got the wire with the fuse on it connected to?...one end to the switch (as you say)...but what is the other end coming from the fuse connected to. From your description that wire isn't connected to anything.

The diagram below works perfectly on my machine..if you duplicate it using a hydraulic switch from the front brake line, it should work the same way. It doesn't matter if its from the front or the back brake as long as you have a properly installed hydraulic switch...there is no additional "sensor" involved from what I have found.

If you trying to set it up so that you have a rear brake light that works from both the front and the back brakes...then likely you will need a more sophisticated set up..beyond my simple knowledge.


http://s1133.photobu...htwireing_2.jpg

Hope this helps.

  • Stealth13

Posted March 08, 2012 - 12:08 PM

#5

He just needs the additional sensor if he wants to do that. It was about 10 dollars extra

  • crash279

Posted March 08, 2012 - 03:55 PM

#6

I wired a hydraulic switch for the rear brake on ny '04 WR...works great. The link to the wireing diagram is below

You have to wire into the battery as part of the circuit you are creating..otherwise you have an unpowered circuit. Where have you got the wire with the fuse on it connected to?...one end to the switch (as you say)...but what is the other end coming from the fuse connected to. From your description that wire isn't connected to anything.

The diagram below works perfectly on my machine..if you duplicate it using a hydraulic switch from the front brake line, it should work the same way. It doesn't matter if its from the front or the back brake as long as you have a properly installed hydraulic switch...there is no additional "sensor" involved from what I have found.

If you trying to set it up so that you have a rear brake light that works from both the front and the back brakes...then likely you will need a more sophisticated set up..beyond my simple knowledge.


http://s1133.photobu...htwireing_2.jpg

Hope this helps.


That is exactly how I have mine wired.

  • zibbit u2

Posted March 10, 2012 - 07:01 PM

#7

step A: check the bulb.

step B: check at the connector with a multimeter.. (hold one lead to the wire you just ran, the other lead to something metal on your bike), what you'll see is 0vdc with brake lever untouched, and 12vdc (off battery power) when the brake lever is pulled.. activating the pressure switch. if good, go to step D, if bad go to step C.

step C: next check the pressure switch with a resistance check putting one lead on the battery connector, the other lead on the wire that you're going to connect to the bulb. You should see a "1" reading on the multimeter when you just touch the two leads, then when you pull in the lever, you should see a noticeable drop down to something like "0.07" ish...

step D: if that's good, then check to make sure that the red/yellow are hooked up correctly.

I had the same issue, only I found out after the fact that my "low circuit" was actually hooked up to the bright circuit.. so I switched the two leads and it worked flawlessly..

Edited by rs25, March 10, 2012 - 07:11 PM.





 
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