Here are a few pictures of it...
Thanks!
Making A Silencer Sleeve
Started by
Tha Breeze
, Mar 07 2012 01:50 PM
22 replies to this topic
Posted 07 March 2012 - 01:50 PM
I got a Yoshimura RS-2 complete titanium system for very cheap. However the silencer mount has broken off of the sleeve. Yoshimura wants $180 for a replacement aluminum sleeve. I was wondering if it's possible to make my own sleeve instead, for a lot cheaper.
Here are a few pictures of it...
Thanks!
Here are a few pictures of it...
Thanks!
Posted 07 March 2012 - 04:06 PM
id get it all pulled apart and take it to a weld shop, im sure someone there would love to play with that and weld it up or even make you a new sleeve for far less, they love a challenge
Posted 08 March 2012 - 04:08 AM
I would figure out what the outside perimeter of that silencer is. Then buy some thin walled tube that has the same perimeter if possible, or buy some sheet metal and make it into a tube of that perimeter if you can't buy the right size. Then take a small diameter bar that is longer than the sleeve to make the corners of the tri-oval shape. slide the bar through and blace the whole thing over an open soft vice (or a vice that is protected so it won't scratch your sleeve) and press down on both ends of the bar to form the tri-oval corner of the sleeve. Rotate the sleeve 120 degrees and repeat. Once it is bent close to the correct tri-oval shape then you can drill all your holes and rivet the end caps on and it should hold it's shape alright. Rivet the mount on in the right spot and you are done.
Posted 08 March 2012 - 05:20 AM
Dude that's a genius idea. I'm going to try and make it out of a tube if I can find one that way I won't have to weld it together where the pieces come around. But are you saying I should clamp it in the vice or just rest it on top and then push down?
Posted 08 March 2012 - 05:31 AM
Personally I would try resting it on top of the open vice and then press down first. If you had some large V-blocks then that would probably work as well.
Posted 08 March 2012 - 05:52 AM
Okay what should be the minimum thickness I should get? And should I heat it up before I try bending it?
Posted 08 March 2012 - 06:27 AM
Depends on what material you are going to go with. You could go with aluminum, titanium, or stainless steel. I would go thicker with aluminum than the other two, but it will be harder to bend. You would probably be fine with around 1/16" thick aluminum, maybe someone else can chime in. You can most likely just bend it cold for the little bit it needs to be bent.
Posted 08 March 2012 - 11:27 AM
if you go to an irrigation place, you should be able to get some aluminum pipe fairly cheap. Around here people are cutting it up and hauling it away for less than $1.00/lb. Handmove comes in 3", 4" and 5" diameters regularly, pump suctions and come in all kinds of sizes and are usually thinner walled than the hand move or mainline.
Let us know how it turns out!
Let us know how it turns out!
Posted 08 March 2012 - 08:37 PM
Alright well it's going good. Even though I wasted a few hours and a big sheet of aluminum. I ended up cutting it an inch short, and I didn't want to make a third trip to the store. So now I'm going to have 2 pieces to the sleeve. But it shouldn't look that bad, hope not anyways, just a little hassle. I thought about cutting down the core an inch, but not sure if I want to do that or not.
But anyways we're on track now! The one half that's done looks really good I think. Should be done in the morning sometime.
But anyways we're on track now! The one half that's done looks really good I think. Should be done in the morning sometime.
Posted 08 March 2012 - 08:48 PM
Yeah I'm so excited about it. I mean I really wasted a hell of a lot of time. But it was all a learning experience Lol. I think it looks really sick already. Then it will have that red anodized mount. I may even get some Yosh stickers to put back on there when I'm done. The only bad part is that it's going to have a lot of rivets. But I don't think it will look too bad. If I just make it to work I will be happy Lol.
Oh yeah and for the record I could have gotten away with a $12 repair. But I wasted a $25 sheet so right now the total repair bill is $37. But it sure beats $180!
Oh yeah and for the record I could have gotten away with a $12 repair. But I wasted a $25 sheet so right now the total repair bill is $37. But it sure beats $180!
Edited by Tha Breeze, 08 March 2012 - 08:49 PM.
Posted 09 March 2012 - 10:49 AM
Just finished. Can't wait to hear how this baby sounds! Now I just have to run to the bike shop and get some more packing, and then take it back apart 
Posted 09 March 2012 - 12:12 PM
Here are more pictures of it. It probably took about 9 hours, but if I were to do it over again I could probably do it in 2 hours now that I know how it's done. The shop was all out of packing so it will be a few days before I can hear it, but I'll post a video once I get it running. Here are all of the pictures of it, starting with the tools needed.
Posted 11 March 2012 - 09:38 AM
If the original sleeve had USFS stampings on it you may want to cut that portion out and rivet it to the new sleeve.
Posted 14 March 2012 - 01:04 PM
Got all done, finally! Here's out it sounds....
http://s1022.photobu...nt=IMG_0823.mp4
Couple of questions since I have a video here. That bogging is still there when it's warmed up, but not quite that bad. What exactly is wrong with my jetting?
Also my bike blows out some white smoke when you rev it before it's warmed up. Is this of any concern? (I thought it would have been but a "mechanic" at the track said don't worry about it unless it does it while it's warmed up.)
Thanks!
http://s1022.photobu...nt=IMG_0823.mp4
Couple of questions since I have a video here. That bogging is still there when it's warmed up, but not quite that bad. What exactly is wrong with my jetting?
Also my bike blows out some white smoke when you rev it before it's warmed up. Is this of any concern? (I thought it would have been but a "mechanic" at the track said don't worry about it unless it does it while it's warmed up.)
Thanks!
Edited by Tha Breeze, 14 March 2012 - 01:06 PM.
Posted 14 March 2012 - 01:54 PM
when ur engine is cold the ring gap on the piston is opened up letting oil through into ur combustion, when it warms up the ring swells up closing the gap
Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:27 AM
Oil smoke is blue-ish and smells like oil smoke. White smoke can be caused by a coolant leak. When you shut off a hot bike, there is still alot of pressure in the cooling system and there is no counter-pressure in the combustion chamber to hold back coolant if there is a leak. So, if you have a bad head gasket, coolant can invade the combustion chamber and pool in there. When you start the bike, it takes time to burn the pooled coolant off, hence the white smoke. While the bike is running, you may be sucking coolant but the amount may be so small that it is not noticable.
Something to check anyway.
Something to check anyway.
