Ha ha changed my mind again. I am fabricating a 7 mm extension for the clutch actuator arm. I already cut the arm and made the extension piece. Just have to limp down to the garage and weld it up.  Can't wait to get this bike together and ride. Let me know if any of you have any other mod ideas.

Charlie755, on 26 March 2012 - 06:07 PM, said:

i found them on ebay for 400!! good quality kits check on there if u havnt already.

Thanks 08. That's a sweet deal. I will look online this week and see what I can find.

Charlie755, on 29 April 2012 - 07:22 PM, said:

no problem this is the one ive been looking at, there are a few more on there between 400-500$

http://www.ebay.com/...f63879e&vxp=mtr

BTW i searched "yz250f 290 kit"

Glad to hear the surgery went good (:

Is the clutch actuator arm worth doing? I dont got a clue

If you go with the e-bay big bore kit, I would highly recommend sending the cylinder to lukes racing to get the stainless steel o-ring insert installed onto the headgasket side of the cylinder.  Ever since getting it installed I havent had one gasket go bad.

Fluffey, on 01 May 2012 - 10:33 AM, said:

Anything that makes clutch pull easier is worth doin in my opinion. I just welded in an additional 7mm to the arm on mine. I will post pics in a bit.

intensem1rider, on 01 May 2012 - 10:41 AM, said:

What exactly is this stainless steel o-ring? I am definitly buying the 290 from Lukes Racing. I talked to him recently and was thoroughly impressed with him.

Edited by Charlie755, 01 May 2012 - 05:41 PM.

it's basically  a ring around the cylinder that is raised about .01" high.  It gives the gasket a pressure point to pinch on and seal.

Heres a couple of pics of the clutch actuater arm extension I did.

http://

[url="http://

Not sure why the 3rd pic isnt showing up so I will post the final pic in the next post.

Edited by Charlie755, 03 May 2012 - 12:46 PM.

Here is the final result. Again I went about 8-9 mil longer than the stock length.

Charlie755, on 03 May 2012 - 12:48 PM, said:

That is going to be easy to pull that sucker in now - cheaper than going the hydraulic clutch route no doubt.
Very impressive work for a post herniated situation if I do say so myself. I bet you rode that race (AMA) -Against Medical Advice -   didn't you? - That sucks when they find out that it is worse than what they originally diagnosed.

I'm looking forward as to how you piece this machine together and the only advice I have (And I know you won't do it, because I know your trick for the ACCT mod   ) is to go with APE MCCT. Hint: Japan was a nice hiatus. If your memory serves you well, I think you might remember why I was going there other than to visit my instructor near the logistics division.

I'm just wondering that since your going a different route than usual for the top end (BB), if you would still use an ACCT with your collar mod on it so it can't "backlash" as I believe you put it.

Edited by nokickstandsallowed, 03 May 2012 - 10:38 PM.

Nice work on that arm man!! Can't even tell it was modded! What did you use to weld it together?

Swede73, on 04 May 2012 - 09:01 AM, said:

Just a little 110v Hobart Handler 135 mig. I have the main power supplier for a nice Miller tig setup but I need to get the torch, foot pedal, and some other accesories before I can use it. Ha ha also our weld engineer from my work is going to teach me how to use the tig as I have never used one before. He is very good at it so I figure he's probably the best person to learn from. I have seen his work and he really knows what he it doing. Cant wait to learn it so I cant start doing tig on everything possible.

you'll love tig. so clean and sexxy and always looks pimp.. just wait till your hands are nice and sweaty and you fire up that torch

I can mig, stick and torch pretty good but I suck at TIG. I shake like a f@ggot at a weenie roast.

Edited by Swede73, 05 May 2012 - 12:34 AM.

Not so much coffee Swede ha ha jk man. Yeah I have done a lot af welding and fabrication I just hadn't needed to use a tig until the aluminum framed bikes came out with the stainless and ti parts.

So next on my mod list is the cam chain tensioner. I will post pics hopefully a little bit later today on how to do this. I need to research the oem part # for the spacer I use so I am giving you the correct information but I will post it as soon as I have everything together.

So here are the pics of the stock timing chain modification I have been doing over the years.

This first pic is the before and after. The after being the one where the tensioner protrudes further out while in the locked back position.

The rest of the pics are the disassembly and reassembly with the spacer installed.



The pic below shows the spacer I used. I didnt have time to look up the oem part # for the spacer I typically use. The demensions on this one (I made by cutting a section from a large dowel pin) are 8.5-9.5mm long, ID 8mm, and OD 12mm.

Edited by Charlie755, 08 May 2012 - 02:50 PM.

These are the reassembly pics.





This pic is the internals assembled.