Best way to do oil change?



25 replies to this topic
  • Stealth13

Posted February 27, 2012 - 10:23 AM

#1

I see people saying different procedures about this . Should I just drain the line every third or so time? And just drain the 2 bolts every time?

Is 500 miles a good change point when riding fairly easy on road?

  • bluesbiker

Posted February 27, 2012 - 01:53 PM

#2

my frind who races these says medium road use change only twice a year frame and engine treat it like an ordinary engine its no diffrent

  • Stealth13

Posted February 27, 2012 - 01:57 PM

#3

Other people on here are doing them like every 3 rides though

  • miweber929

Posted February 28, 2012 - 05:59 AM

#4

It takes a quart of oil to do a complete drain and fill and if you don't do the frame then you are just mixing junk oil with good oil and not getting the full benifit of either. Read your manual to learn how the oiling system works.

If your video, Stealth, is you doing "easy" street miles then you need to redefine easy: quick, hard shifts and cranking on the throttle at every shift are what wear the oil out. Your not running a race but that's hardly a putt through the countryside.

You are talking $15 a quart for even the best full synthetic oil, so a change is fairly cheap as a filter can be had for under $10. I'd say if you are a street rider or easy on the bike you can do 2 oil changes for every filter but I wouldn't go too much more than 500 to 1000 miles on a change. Which is what I would recommend, like shoot for 750 miles or say 3 or 4 times a year.

What you really need to do on that bike is go by color and smell until you get a feel: very dark, black oil that looks and acts thin needs to go. And if it smells burnt or smells bad it needed to go a while ago. It should come out like it came in consistency wise and just starting to turn a dark color.

Ymmv, but remember the oil is the lifeblood of your engine and keeps things from wearing out, And it's under $25 and takes 20 minutes to swap out.

Your call.

Mike

  • Stealth13

Posted February 28, 2012 - 07:15 AM

#5

Not trying to cheap out, was just wondering the service intervals because obviously cruising at 80 is easier than racing on the bike

  • miweber929

Posted February 28, 2012 - 07:22 AM

#6

The service intervals in the manual are designed for somewhere in between all out putt and all out racing and are fine for your apllication. Not to mention having the answers to most of your other posted questions, FYI.

Since, basically, you can never change the oil too much; you are asking how long you can go so you are in fact trying to cheap out.

And don't kid yourself into thinking highway cruising at 80 is any less hard on engine (and transmission oil, remember) than racing. That was, and is, my point. The sheer velocity of a spinning transmission tears oil apart quite nicely.

YMMV

Mike

Edited by miweber929, February 28, 2012 - 07:23 AM.


  • Stealth13

Posted February 28, 2012 - 07:52 AM

#7

Oh so doesn't really matter how hard you drive for oil life , just harder on the engine and trans to be revving a lot .

Do you know how hard it is on the bike to do full throttle ? I hardly do more than half not knowing how hard it is on it

  • Stealth13

Posted March 15, 2012 - 08:18 AM

#8

Anyone have a link to a detailed procedure ? I can't see the 2 drain nuts. I found the full and oil check stick.
Going with the 15w40 rotella diesel oil .
Gotta do one today as it has 900km since the last change

  • n16ht5

Posted March 15, 2012 - 08:37 AM

#9

You dont have a manual? !?!

Drain all the oil by the way, any less and you are just mixing garbage oil with new.

Im not going to tell you how as you should be reading off the manual.


I am using valvoline racing synthetic from oreillys. Got it for $5.50 a qt.

I used rotella dino on my xrs but this bike has too small of oil capacity

  • Stealth13

Posted March 15, 2012 - 08:55 AM

#10

Like I found a picture of the drains but it's hard to see. It looked like the check stick was at the bottom in the pic ...

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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 16, 2012 - 02:59 PM

#11

IMHO, If you don't own a manual, you should not be allowed to own the bike.

Every question asked is in there, plus all the IMPORTANT answers you don't know to ask about yet.

  • jcbikes

Posted March 16, 2012 - 03:08 PM

#12

I have been using 15w40 rotella in my WR426F and Buell XB12S for years with now problem. I believe in changing every 600 on the WR and 1,500 on the Buell.

  • mikewrf18

Posted March 17, 2012 - 05:54 AM

#13

Definately get a manual. You should be able to download one for free on this site. Not sure what year WR you have, but here's a great write up on oil change proceedures for the Older WR250F. It may shed some light on some of your questions.
I believe it covers oil changes on the YZF/WRF250's up through years 2005. I believe the older YZF/WRF 250's and 400/426/450's share alot of the same simularities, as far as the oil change proceedures, but I could be wrong. Anyways, take a look and see if the diagrams on this link show the same as your bike. If your bike is newer then 05' then disreguard.
http://www.thumperfa.../oil_change.htm

  • mikewrf18

Posted March 17, 2012 - 06:02 AM

#14

Here you go, get your manual already! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
http://www.yamahaown...ook.com.au/?r=0

  • Stealth13

Posted March 17, 2012 - 08:33 AM

#15

I have a manual but the pictures show zoomed in locations so you can't see where they are . I watched a how to video instead

  • mikewrf18

Posted March 17, 2012 - 08:35 AM

#16

I have a manual but the pictures show zoomed in locations so you can't see where they are . I watched a how to video instead

Okay, copy that. Did you get it changed? Run into any issues?

  • Stealth13

Posted March 17, 2012 - 09:35 AM

#17

I think I got them all, drain the bolt near the front tire on frame and got a lot out there, then the one under the motor and the oil filter side one. Changed the filter and put 1.1 liters back in

  • mikewrf18

Posted March 17, 2012 - 09:47 AM

#18

I think I got them all, drain the bolt near the front tire on frame and got a lot out there, then the one under the motor and the oil filter side one. Changed the filter and put 1.1 liters back in

For piece of mine I always check for oil pressure at the oil pressure check bolt after completing the oil change. What year bike is this by the way?
I also use new crush washers often, and keep an eye on the little rubber orings and replace them every so often. I believe the manual calls for new orings and crush washers on each oil change, but I tend to cut corners on this occassionally.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted March 17, 2012 - 10:15 AM

#19

I think I got them all, drain the bolt near the front tire on frame and got a lot out there, then the one under the motor and the oil filter side one. Changed the filter and put 1.1 liters back in

Assuming you have the steel framed bike, that's what I do. The bolt behind the wheel first, then the one at the bottom. I like to lift the front wheel a little to get it all to drain out the bottom. I change my oil every other ride, which for me is about every 120 miles at most. I change the filter every 3rd or 4th oil change. Just buy the filters in the 10 pack off of ebay.

I do NOT use the $15 / quart oil. I use the shell rotella. I get it from AutoZone. That's good enough.

  • GASKICKER

Posted August 29, 2013 - 08:32 AM

#20

I have been using 15w40 rotella in my WR426F and Buell XB12S for years with now problem. I believe in changing every 600 on the WR and 1,500 on the Buell.


What's with all this mileage talk? I thought the wr was a per X hr oil change machine.




 
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