water circulating or not


11 replies to this topic
  • bluesbiker

Posted February 26, 2012 - 08:42 AM

#1

hi can any one tell me how to check my wr 426
need to no if the coolent is passing and circulating all around the system before the rebuild no 3 is carried out
not shure if this contribuated to my seeze but could of as the oil was ok and to the top of the engine gear when dismantled

regards peter

  • bluesbiker

Posted February 27, 2012 - 02:03 PM

#2

is there any bleed nipples to make shure i have not got air trapped pls

  • William1

Posted February 27, 2012 - 05:23 PM

#3

Have enough coolant to just cover the core, bike running, you should see coolant movement.
A sieze is usually the result of parts just worn out or a failure to change oil.

You do have a owners manual, right?

  • bluesbiker

Posted February 28, 2012 - 09:03 AM

#4

thanks william no no manuel no money left to get one this is the 3rd build in 3 months worn parts no all new piston etc oil no changed 2 days before the seize

  • bluesbiker

Posted February 28, 2012 - 11:05 AM

#5

removed the water pump housing today theres a little bit play clockwise ant clockwise on the shaft b4 it engages with the drive but not a lot so the pump is deff not the problem

  • William1

Posted February 28, 2012 - 05:18 PM

#6

Manual is a free D/L from yamaha
http://www.yamaha-mo...ual-for-my-unit
Also possibly here
http://www.yamaha-mo...uals/index.aspx

A little play in the drive gears is normal. Either the impeller turns or does not. Vewry rare a clog in the coolan passages is a problem. If there is not flow and the pump is intact, check for a collapsed hose or damaged radiator. Though I have seen situations where a previous owner used 'no-leak' stuff in the radiator and ruined the cooling system.

I assume when the sieze happened, the radiators were full of coolant, that you confirmed oil flow to the head?

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  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted February 28, 2012 - 05:46 PM

#7

hi can any one tell me how to check my wr 426
need to no if the coolent is passing and circulating all around the system before the rebuild no 3 is carried out
not shure if this contribuated to my seeze but could of as the oil was ok and to the top of the engine gear when dismantled

regards peter


If your bike overheated because of no coolant flow (or no coolant at all), it would simply shut off on you. It would not seize up. Once it cooled, it would probably start backup again, until at least, it gets hot and shuts off again.

Ask me how I know?????

I would think you'd have some sort of friction/lubrication type of problem that would cause the seize.

  • Thommo_400f

Posted February 28, 2012 - 06:09 PM

#8

Take off the radiator cap
Start your bike
Look for turbulence in the fluid to confirm that you have a good flow.

Same proceedure if you dump and replace your coolant, you start it and look for bubbles to ensure the system is purged of air.

  • VinceDC

Posted February 28, 2012 - 06:24 PM

#9

If there is no circulation the left radiator will not get warm.

  • cjard

Posted February 29, 2012 - 02:33 AM

#10

the oil was ok and to the top of the engine gear when dismantled

When you say "to the top of the engine gear" do you mean the bike was so full of oil that the camshafts were floating in it? Cause that would sure cause a lot of problems...

Refer to your manual for the oil change and refill procedure,and fill level

  • bluesbiker

Posted February 29, 2012 - 09:47 AM

#11

yes william water level fine the oil to the top of the cams etc etc when kick stars opperated by hand all components wet camshaft area etc etc so oil def getting up there to the top,,,,,the bottom of the skirt area for oil is my worry but the mechanicc says its fine

ps is the coloring of my crankshaft normall any one heres a picture the flash has enhanced it



Posted Image

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted March 01, 2012 - 12:00 AM

#12

My wr450 looked just like that when I rebuilt it. It looks normal. How does it operate? Does it rotate smoothly?




 
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