..on removing the bearing for the trans input shaft on the LH side?  Bike is an'00 KDX 200?

I'd hoped my seal puller would get it.  It didn't.  I've fussed with it to the extent of getting the inner cage and rollers out.  I've tried rolling the outer shell in, but all that's gotten me is some bits of the edge broken off.

The outer shell/race is mocking me....


Thanks!

You may have to cut it. If you do do it on a non thrust side.

Ed

you could cut it enough to use one of these:

well the link didn't work. i was suggesting a nut splitter

Edited by bansheedave, 19 February 2012 - 07:59 PM.

The bearing is IN the case.  It's a blind hole.  A nutsplitter would work if it was stuck on the shaft.

Cutting:  I've always figured I NEEDED a Dremel!  I might just have to go buy one!  Thanks for the 'non-thrust' input.  That's reasonable.  Now....if I knew where that was....

Where IS force applied at the left end of the input shaft, Ed?  I could see toward the front as the two shafts pushed against each other, but, the OUTput shaft obviously thrusts TO the right...I can see the wear on the outer race of that bearing cage in the right cover.  Seems the thrust on the front shaft would be a matter of gear design.  I don't recall a shoulder on the left end of the input shaft..and there's no washer there.

I could have left it alone.  Nothing wrong with it, but as long as the case is split...why not wreak some havoc?

Call me Mayhem...

...I should do car insurance commercials.........

I would say the thrust on that bearing would be to the front of the case because in my mind the gears will try to push the 2 shafts apart, like you are thinking too, so I think I would try to cut it on the rear side of the case.

I have a nice tusk blind bearing puller set I got from RockyMountainMC that would probably get that out.

You also could try heating the case in the oven and see if you could pull it then.

Ed

Thanks Ed...'forward' sounds good to me!


The $90 puller 'set' is what you are referring to?  Part# 1219080001

I've looked into screw-type exctractors, but have not found one small enough to fit inside this hole.  Slide hammer types are great when you can stand on the part (a bike wheel bearing) or the bearing you're pounding out is in a 4000lb car that ain't movin'.


I figured to try heat on it today..just in case there is something sticking the shell in the case.  The case being a whole lot more metal than the thin bearing shell, there isn't any heat applied to the case that the shell will not instantly adapt to methinks.

Edited by canyncarvr, 20 February 2012 - 11:36 AM.

That's how I got it out of mine. Heated the case half up in the oven and it simply fell out.

Yes that is the puller set I have and it has worked GREAT on lots of things.

Ed

juliend, on 20 February 2012 - 12:52 PM, said:

Well now...if I didn't know you, I'd be looking askance..sidewise even...at that idea.  It FELL out?


Oh well....


I went with plan 'Plan B'.

After three hours of chiseling bits of it out..sharpening my chisels over and over...straightening them out 'cuz they eventually bent (over and over)..fashioning a pointed wedge out of a scribe tool, cutting the other end off so I had something to hammer on..I finally missed.  All it takes is one!  Frankly, I'm surprised it took me three hours!!  ..to finally miss, I mean.

So, now I have a hole in the cover, and I can proceed to 'Plan C'.

I had considered drilling a couple of holes in the cover so I could get to the bearing shell from behind.  Having no reason to any longer wonder to what extent the cover strength would be compromised ('cuz I just put a hole in with a chisel), I drilled the hole..had the shell out in less than a minute.

This balderdash of heating up the case and that bearing falling right out.....Puhleeeze!!  Consider the fun and excitement of THAT process..vs: three hours of banging AND getting to mix up a batch of JB Weld!

(I did put a torch to it, too before the hole process became a factor.  Twice, actually.  Uh...nothing fell out.)


Thanks for the input!  I appreciate it!

You may have heated the race too much with the torch causing the race to expand also. The oven trick does work, Ive done it on my KXs in the past. It heats more evenly and the aluminum expands quicker than the steal race. It works great for installing the new bearings also, especially if you freeze the bearings. They will drop right in.

zz3gmc, on 20 February 2012 - 04:52 PM, said:

You are referring to the transmission input shaft LH bearing?

How long do you leave it in the oven?  300º?  There has to be a magic-number time-wise before EVERYthing gets hot.  Or...the aluminum just expands more than the steel of the bearing shell?

How long/what temp do you use when baking cases, Juliend?

Is there basting involved?  Covered or uncovered?  And....WHEN do you add the cheese?  Hhhmmmm?

You baste with Red Hot sauce but be very careful not to get it on the bearing just the case that helps the case expand faster. I don't put cheese in or on the case myself. I use 275* and a temp gun and watch the case temp and when it gets to 270* I pull the case out and tap it on wood to try to get the bearings out.

Ed

If I'm reading this correctly, you have the outer part of what used to be a bearing stuck in the bore? If it can be reached, use long needle-nosed pliers, and shrink the hardened steel away from the case using a bit of dry ice. I've removed corroded bearing races from 4x4 hubs this way. A word of caution, dry ice and aluminumn don't play well together, you have to be careful.

bowhunter

Yes.  Did have.  As noted above, it's gone ATT.

As careful as I was with a chisel..it's a good thing I didn't try the dry ice method.  

Thanks for the input, though.

Ed:  Sorry.  I just cannot abide the 'no cheese' plan.........

Be very very careful...............too much cheese can make you get FAT!