yz450f 2007. White smoke. Please help.


15 replies to this topic
  • mrzolkin

Posted February 18, 2012 - 06:10 AM

#1

Hello from Russia. )

I have a problem with my YZ450F. I bought it recently and everything was fine.

But last week I changed oil and my YZ began to smoke really bad. (((

And when you start cold engine on, there no smoke, but when it heats up ... so, you can see on video. )

Please help me. ) Coolant? Oil? What direction should I dig at?

We have no specialists at this area in Russia, so I hope you guys will be able to help me distantly. )



  • crf450319

Posted February 18, 2012 - 07:00 AM

#2

Burnt coolant will produce white smoke, like what you've got and that'd be my guess. Have you ridden it like that at all ? If you have, did you check your coolant level afterwards ? That seems like a significant amount of smoke, I'd think that you'd notice a drop in your coolant level pretty quick. As far as I know, the head gasket is usually the main cause of what you've got.. but I could be wrong. Maybe Grayracer will have a different idea ?

If it was engine oil the smoke is usually more of a bluish color and with that amount, you would more than likely know right away that it was burnt oil.

Check your coolant and engine oil, are you low on either ? Is your engine oil milky (coolant in it) ?

Edited by crf450319, February 18, 2012 - 07:21 AM.


  • grayracer513

Posted February 18, 2012 - 08:11 AM

#3

Burnt coolant will produce white smoke, like what you've got and that'd be my guess. Have you ridden it like that at all ? If you have, did you check your coolant level afterwards ? That seems like a significant amount of smoke, I'd think that you'd notice a drop in your coolant level pretty quick. As far as I know, the head gasket is usually the main cause of what you've got.. but I could be wrong. Maybe Grayracer will have a different idea ?

If it was engine oil the smoke is usually more of a bluish color and with that amount, you would more than likely know right away that it was burnt oil.

Check your coolant and engine oil, are you low on either ? Is your engine oil milky (coolant in it) ?


One possibility is that you overfilled the engine. If you put in more than one liter, that can cause this. Also, if there is a problem with the return oil pump, it could act this way. If you put in one liter and there is no oil on the dip stick, I would look there.

The other clues are that oil smoke will hang in the air until it blows somewhere else, while coolant produces something much more like steam, which simply vanishes as it cools off. Your "smoke" looks like it does that, so that makes me think coolant like the quote above suggests. The other thing is that there is a distinct difference in smell between coolant and oil smoke. Oil smells like, well, burned oil, while coolant has a kind of spicy, pepper-like smell.

If that's oil smoke, it looks like rings or cylinder damage, overfill, or the oil pump problem I mentioned. If it's coolant, it's probably a head gasket.

  • mrzolkin

Posted February 18, 2012 - 04:06 PM

#4

Thank you guys!!!

Can you tell me, If I burn some coolant on the open fire, will it have the same smell as going from the exhaust? Of course if I have coolant problem.

I ride two times on bike in this condition. Nothing changed on his behavior. =) I'm talking about power characteristics. I will check coolant level next time when I test it. )

Thank you for your help! To day I'm going to burn some coolant!!! =)

  • crf450319

Posted February 18, 2012 - 05:21 PM

#5

I don't know if burning coolant in a fire would work... It might I guess ?

Your engine is either be burning oil, or coolant. Seeing how the smoke looks more white than blue (blue heavier smoke would indicate burnt oil) I think it's safe to say that you are burning coolant. I wouildn't expect that you'd notice a big change in how much power the bike makes, until you run out of coolant and it locks up.

If the smoke that is coming out the exhaust does not smell like burnt oil, then I'd guarantee that you are burning coolant.

If that were my bike I'd pull the head off and replace the head gasket, after you've made sure you haven't overfilled it with oil & the level is where it should be.

Edited by crf450319, February 18, 2012 - 05:27 PM.


  • gtxkid

Posted February 18, 2012 - 10:07 PM

#6

Where did the bike come from.
Was it setup for where you are at.
You will want to make sure it is jetted for where you are.
I am in this jetting change myself.
Check your air filter, is it properly clean.

Edited by gtxkid, February 18, 2012 - 10:11 PM.


  • mrzolkin

Posted February 18, 2012 - 10:25 PM

#7

Jetting? =) I don't exactly understand. ) :"I am in this jetting change myself." - What does it mean? =)

Yz was bought in US and transported to Russia about 3 years ago. ) Air filter cleaned. =(

=====
Unfortunately I figured out some new information. =( To day I checked oil level before and after long ride, and it ate about 300ml oil. =(
So I thins that the coolant problem doesn't fit here.

Now, what part should I order? I already ordered Piston Rings from eBay and I think I will get them in a three weeks only. (
What should I order extra for sure? Piston?

  • crf450319

Posted February 19, 2012 - 06:35 AM

#8

Jetting? =) I don't exactly understand. ) :"I am in this jetting change myself." - What does it mean? =)

Yz was bought in US and transported to Russia about 3 years ago. ) Air filter cleaned. =(

=====
Unfortunately I figured out some new information. =( To day I checked oil level before and after long ride, and it ate about 300ml oil. =(
So I thins that the coolant problem doesn't fit here.

Now, what part should I order? I already ordered Piston Rings from eBay and I think I will get them in a three weeks only. (
What should I order extra for sure? Piston?


Jetting, no matter how bad won't produce smoke like that. The engine would be breaking up/popping all the time if the jetting was too far off.

Yes, order a piston, piston rings, piston pin, cylinder base gasket, head gasket, 2 piston pin circlips. While you are doing that, I'd also put a new cam chain in the bike they are only about $23. You'll need a flywheel puller (tool) to replace the cam chain, they cost about $17.

I've ordered from these guys before :
http://www.ebay.com/...=item5ae50a1f81

flywheel puller :
http://www.ebay.com/...=item1c22b079f5

Cam chain :
http://www.ebay.com/...=item5648b13271

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • grayracer513

Posted February 19, 2012 - 10:39 AM

#9

Dripping coolant on the hot exhaust pipe or a similar surface will create the distinctive coolant smell I mentioned. Same with oil, really.

  • mrzolkin

Posted February 21, 2012 - 05:48 PM

#10

Thank you for all advices. ) I already have CAM Chain. ) Piston Rings will come soon. So I just need to order Piston from Japan. ) Lucky for me, I live near Japan, China and Korea. ) So I think Piston shipping will take about 7-10 days. But When I order from USA, usually it takes 30-40 days. =((( I hate our post. (

Edited by mrzolkin, February 22, 2012 - 04:30 PM.


  • grayracer513

Posted February 21, 2012 - 06:18 PM

#11

The thing about Russia is that you can live hundreds of miles from the western border and still be 4500 miles from a neighboring country in the east. :bonk:

  • mrzolkin

Posted February 22, 2012 - 04:33 PM

#12

You exactly right! I live in Vladivostok. It situated in about 600-800 km from japan, but when we order some parts, they are going to Moscow at first, +7800km , then they are coming back +7000km. So I think some times even US shipping is faster then shipping from our neighbors. =((

  • cjard

Posted February 23, 2012 - 04:07 AM

#13

You can get a service manual download from www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au

When rebuilding my engine, instead of a flywheel puller, I used two long screwdrivers, and used them between the edges of the case and the back of the flywheel to apply some even pressure on opposite sides of the flywheel at the same time, then my dad tapped (tapped, not slammed!) the flywheel nut with a hammer, and the flywheel came loose, no need for a puller

The flywheel nut had already been loosened (caution: use the owners manual to find out if it's clock-wise or counter-clockwise thread, i can't remember) but it hadnt been removed fully from the shaft.. This is to protect the thread end of the shaft.. Leave the nut on and make sure it's sticking out just a little further than the end of the shaft, so you don't mash the end of the shaft up with the hammer. Use 2 people, so one person can apply even pressure (find 2 same screwdrivers and 2 places on the case where the distance from case to flywheel is the same, and lever on opposite sides of the flywheel) nand the other can tap the shaft.. Use a hard hammer and a gentle tap

  • mrzolkin

Posted February 23, 2012 - 06:05 AM

#14

Thank you for information. ) With out pictures it is a little bit hard to understand, but anyway I try to use your instructions. )

  • crf450319

Posted February 23, 2012 - 06:30 AM

#15

Thank you for information. ) With out pictures it is a little bit hard to understand, but anyway I try to use your instructions. )


For $20, not having to worry about damaging the crank or making it a 2 person job... I think I'd go with the puller. But, it is nice to have options. I'd have never thought about tapping the nut as you've described.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 23, 2012 - 08:11 AM

#16

Agreed. There's a reason they make flywheel pullers a certain way. The two screwdriver method is what professionals call "caveman" or "gorilla" methods. It is a really good way to ruin a flywheel and possibly a stator as well. Just don't do it.





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