'11 KX250F for woods question


35 replies to this topic
  • onekawboy

Posted 17 February 2012 - 12:24 PM

#1

I am contemplating installing a a Rekluse into my bike and having the suspension re valved  for trail use

I got a price for all this and well trying to figure out if there is anything else I should think about at this time... I have not touched the fuel or exhaust yet .. ..throttle cams worth it?

I thought about switching out sprockets and chain but have heard to much controversy over what to actually run.... no racing here just playing on the trails ..

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  • YHGEORGE

Posted 17 February 2012 - 12:27 PM

#2

Ride the bike and then address areas of need. Why would you even consider spending money on something someone else says you need?

  • onekawboy

Posted 17 February 2012 - 12:36 PM

#3

not spending money on what others "think" i need, but want to upgrade to better parts from stock is all.

I want the bike set up for woods / trail riding is all .. what other opinions or perhaps what they actually have done thats all !

  • stlavsa

Posted 18 February 2012 - 11:59 AM

#4

well if your not racing you can do without the rekluse?   You can ride it as is, if your not racing... even suspension.   Youre better off with a revalve, BUT your not competing, so again its not the end of the world.

I recommend a suspension revalve though if your are atleast planning to take your trail riding serious..  Rekluse I wouldnt bother with unless u race, then it becomes much more important.   You could consider the trail riding as "practicing" so just master the clutch as-is.

Edited by stlavsa, 18 February 2012 - 12:03 PM.


  • stlavsa

Posted 18 February 2012 - 12:08 PM

#5

Id rather have a pipe that gives you some more low-end grunt and mid range over the rekluse,   The gears are short on the 250s, if you are ever riding with guys running 450s or even 250 two-strokes, the 250f will have a hard time keeping up on high speed stuff (roads, dirt roads, fields shit like that).  

Point is with more low-end grunt you can avoid having to gear down the already short gearing of the bike.  I really like 250fs for the tighter trails, light weight and still has the 4-stroke tractability but the problem is some time you really gotta wring the motors out to hang with the big bores in the open stuff, so gear up not down if you anticipate those scenarios.

  • NemadjiMan

Posted 20 February 2012 - 12:16 PM

#6

stlavsa, on 18 February 2012 - 12:08 PM, said:

Id rather have a pipe that gives you some more low-end grunt and mid range over the rekluse,   The gears are short on the 250s, if you are ever riding with guys running 450s or even 250 two-strokes, the 250f will have a hard time keeping up on high speed stuff (roads, dirt roads, fields shit like that).  

Point is with more low-end grunt you can avoid having to gear down the already short gearing of the bike.  I really like 250fs for the tighter trails, light weight and still has the 4-stroke tractability but the problem is some time you really gotta wring the motors out to hang with the big bores in the open stuff, so gear up not down if you anticipate those scenarios.
I would suggest the opposite.  MX bikes have a pretty high first gear ratio, so adding a tooth or two to the rear sprocket can be a good idea to keep from having to slip the clutch in first gear in really tight and technical situations.  Also, if you trail ride like we trail ride here in MN, even if the bike is geared down, you never really get going more than 50mph and if you do, it's for very short spurts.  I just rev it for those few and far between times.

I would also agree with whoever said to go trail ride the bike first, and figure out from there what you would like to change (gearing included).  By the way, KXs have a reputation for being loud.  I would suggest a quieter silencer with a spark arrestor for trail riding.

  • stlavsa

Posted 20 February 2012 - 05:21 PM

#7

NemadjiMan, on 20 February 2012 - 12:16 PM, said:

I would suggest the opposite.  MX bikes have a pretty high first gear ratio, so adding a tooth or two to the rear sprocket can be a good idea to keep from having to slip the clutch in first gear in really tight and technical situations.  Also, if you trail ride like we trail ride here in MN, even if the bike is geared down, you never really get going more than 50mph and if you do, it's for very short spurts.  I just rev it for those few and far between times.

I would also agree with whoever said to go trail ride the bike first, and figure out from there what you would like to change (gearing included).  By the way, KXs have a reputation for being loud.  I would suggest a quieter silencer with a spark arrestor for trail riding.

I agree but in the trails the higher first gear actually calms down the engine braking that you have to fight with the 4-strokes...    And the trails we ride here you never exceed 50 mph.  Its just that the trails are often connected by roads, fields, gravel lanes, etc and its HARD to keep up on the 250f if your riding with 450s and 250s.   U can keep up, but ur bouncing 13.5k rpms while everyone else is cruising in 5th.

  • onekawboy

Posted 21 February 2012 - 06:43 AM

#8

The suspension is getting revalve for sure.
Last year aft setting sag we adjusted the clickers out... and still a bit harsh nice for blasting fields around here.

I would like to try and get into racing hare scrambles around here ( if my work schedule allows) that is why I have been considering the Rekluse clutch... one of the places I ride has moderate hills, tight singles and small track..

The gearing seems about right in stock form but as someone stated short close ratio and seem to shift frequent

Exhaust? ... it is raspy .. I wouldn't consider it loud .. but have been looking at makes ... FMF power bomb and Quiet series pipe?
Then what FMI set up or have dealer tune the EFI?

Just looking for Ideas ... figured I would get some of this done now before weather breaks here ...

thanks for feedback :bonk:

  • MELK-MAN

Posted 21 February 2012 - 08:12 AM

#9

there are DOZENS of threads on making a bike a woods bike, even mx type bikes. For most riders that installed a recluse, is said to be by those riders one of if not the single BEST improvement they made to their woods bike. Spend some time reviewing the 3 different models to see what might be best for you.. suspension is likely the first mod to make. More power even for a 250? why not ride it first in the tight woods and tricky stuff, THEN ask yourself if you need "more" power..A
recluse will help with the close ratio trans of the mx bike too, because you can run smaller rear sprockets than you might need to without it. Many riders run a bigger rear sprocket so they don't stall as much. With the auto clutch you can run stock or even smaller rear as you won't stall, and it spaces out your shifts more. The real nice benefit of smaller rear sprockts is the FASTER TOP SPEED in the open field or dirt road sections of a harescramble/enduro.

Dwight's sticky at the top of the page is worth a read too.. http://www.thumperta...-off-road-bike/

Edited by MELK-MAN, 21 February 2012 - 09:10 AM.


  • ranger392v

Posted 21 February 2012 - 07:22 PM

#10

I ride my 2007 KX250F mainly in the woods.  I prefer a 49T rear sprocket, Dr. D exhaust system(has a spark arrestor),and steering stabilizer.  IMO you can get by without the rekluse on the 250F. I ride with people on 250 and 300 2-strokes and 450f's.  I never feel like I don't have enough motorcycle.

  • onekawboy

Posted 21 February 2012 - 11:02 PM

#11

oh the ideas are endless ..lol

i have taken into account the exhaust not and have been looking at FMF Q4, Motoworks, and BigGun...
Does the stabilizers help that much?


any thoughts please post

  • ranger392v

Posted 22 February 2012 - 05:32 AM

#12

I can tell a major difference in my riding with the stabilizer. They help in sand, roots (especially wet), rocks, high speed headshake, hitting bark busters on trees, braking bumps, anything the front tire might deflect off. And I have moved my forks up in the triple clamps.

  • 07ATKEnduro

Posted 22 February 2012 - 06:06 AM

#13

For tight woods I would suggest a larger set of radiators and guards for them.

  • RBdirt

Posted 22 February 2012 - 01:44 PM

#14

Thanks, Do they make a pretty big difference?  I am fairly new to ridding and have started to like the really tight trails but being new means I am ridding pretty slow through them and fear I will be overheating in the summer.... thinking larger rads or maybe a fan and switch.

07ATKEnduro, on 22 February 2012 - 06:06 AM, said:

For tight woods I would suggest a larger set of radiators and guards for them.


  • hondaftw13

Posted 22 February 2012 - 03:40 PM

#15

TheSBimage, on 22 February 2012 - 01:44 PM, said:

Thanks, Do they make a pretty big difference?  I am fairly new to ridding and have started to like the really tight trails but being new means I am ridding pretty slow through them and fear I will be overheating in the summer.... thinking larger rads or maybe a fan and switch.
use engine ice (http://www.motosport...NGINE-ICE-64-OZ) I have a kx250f as well, and i was worried about it over heating as well in the tight stuff. But I used engine ice and my bike has never over heated, not even in tight singletrack in Florida in 90 degree weather.

  • moto367

Posted 23 February 2012 - 11:37 AM

#16

I didn't do or need to do too much to my '11 KX250F.  Motor was left stock as I felt it had plenty down low.  I did put on a Pro Circuit spark arrestor.  To do over I'd go with FMF just because they are quieter.  Suspension, I played with a .8kg spring in the front.  It softend it up quite a bit but it was a little too much for me.  I was racing though.  I ended up having it revalved front and rear but I can honostly say it wasn't too bad stock.  My final setting was the revalve and I changed the inner chamber spring on the forks to a softer one. (I have both the softer springs if you're interested. PM me).  You will not need bigger radiators.  Thesed do a good job of keeping things cool but that can all be relative to your riding also.  I would advise to get radiator guards.  If you're going to be in the mud an o-ring chain is a must.  I left the gearing stock and it worked well.  There were a few times where I wish I would have had a 50 tooth rear sprocket but again, it was pretty darn close.  The KX is a fun bike in the woods and I really enjoyed it.  I think you'll have fun on it.  Hope this helps.

  • stlavsa

Posted 23 February 2012 - 09:24 PM

#17

ranger392v, on 21 February 2012 - 07:22 PM, said:

I ride my 2007 KX250F mainly in the woods.  I prefer a 49T rear sprocket, Dr. D exhaust system(has a spark arrestor),and steering stabilizer.  IMO you can get by without the rekluse on the 250F. I ride with people on 250 and 300 2-strokes and 450f's.  I never feel like I don't have enough motorcycle.

Its the terrain.. or the guys arent pushing the 300 n 450s enough, but terrain is highly likely, IMO the 250f is better than those bikes in most terrain.

  • onekawboy

Posted 24 February 2012 - 10:14 AM

#18

thanks everyone will diff. keep all input



curious on the pipe and silencer .. with being fuel injection guessing the bike needs to be tuned...what about just a silencer?

Can you add a FMI?

Edited by onekawboy, 25 February 2012 - 05:30 AM.


  • jason white

Posted 26 February 2012 - 06:36 PM

#19

suspension first this will make the biggest difference. most 250fs dont over heat that bad in my experience.  And I ride in some of the tighest woods.

  • yztwostrokin

Posted 27 February 2012 - 04:40 PM

#20

Some good advice here, some not so much. A rekluse wouldn't be a bad idea for the fact that it'll keep the bike running, a hot 250f can be a b*tch to start. The rekluse will also allow you to run the bike at a very low rpm where it would generally flame out. You won't need a stabilizer, all that does is mask bad suspension setup(unless you're running WFO in the dez). A slip on would be a great idea, spark arrested to allow you to ride in more places. I would definitely ride with the stock suspension before a revalve, it will give you a good idea of what you like and don't like in comparison to a revalve. It will give you some info to feed the tuner so they can better meet your needs.

Now, if you're just beginning then a rekluse is somewhat of a bad thing in the long run since it will prevent you from learning proper technique with the clutch. If you don't care about that then by all means buy one!

Edited by yztwostrokin, 27 February 2012 - 04:41 PM.





 
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