WP CC Fork pressure build up


94 replies to this topic
  • dwb79

Posted 13 March 2012 - 02:32 PM

#61

mog, on 13 March 2012 - 02:20 PM, said:

It would be interesting how long the fork stays in the bottoming cone during a full bottom,  I have no idea

Would be good to know.  Can someone with some data aquisition answer this for us?

mog, on 13 March 2012 - 02:23 PM, said:

These forks have been in production since 2005?

Since 2007. But they've only been running the lower stiction seal for the past couple of years.

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  • mog

Posted 13 March 2012 - 02:45 PM

#62

Nope in sxs they were around in 06 possibly before

  • mog

Posted 13 March 2012 - 02:47 PM

#63

Maybe its the low stiction seal but we are saying the fork is incapable of blowing off excess oil and I don't think that's correct

  • yamaha227

Posted 13 March 2012 - 04:00 PM

#64

Yes but as dave said, low stiction seal has only been in use since 2011, there in lies the problem.

This purple skf seal doesnt even have a coil spring holding the inner lip which i think seems odd, but hey im no seal designer. Whereas from what i can see, atleast the older type does and so does the showa seal pictured.

So how hard would it be to machine a vertical groove in the inner cart?

  • suhoi27

Posted 13 March 2012 - 09:00 PM

#65

mog, on 13 March 2012 - 01:52 PM, said:

Where was it sucking air from? You mean during priming? Ive set them to 0.3mm and had zero problems?

It was sucking air From the seal. The situation was even worse when I adapted the Cone Valve to work with this fork and by accident I put 0.1 ish float. During the prime the rod wanted to go back as if there was a pressure from a bladder...Weird!

  • yamaha227

Posted 18 March 2012 - 06:28 PM

#66

henrics, on 11 March 2012 - 05:16 PM, said:

How about using a showa cart seal. on the new sealholders one must mod it or make a thin sleeve. but on the old the job isn`t more than the one i made for the skf seal.
Posted Image
borrowed the pic from kan3 here on tt

Have you tried this seal, or the new type yet?

  • henrics

Posted 19 March 2012 - 07:22 AM

#67

nope.
Would like to know the dimensions of the "groove" that the seal sits in first so i can make new sleeves for the showa seal.
By the new seal do you mean the skf?

  • yamaha227

Posted 19 March 2012 - 11:04 AM

#68

henrics, on 19 March 2012 - 07:22 AM, said:

nope.
Would like to know the dimensions of the "groove" that the seal sits in first so i can make new sleeves for the showa seal.
By the new seal do you mean the skf?

Yeah i meant the skf aswell.

With these different older type seals ive been trying, im now loosing oil back the other way and bladder pressure is dropping. So next, im going to go back to the oem old style seal.

Have also noticed on the parts diagrams between 08-12 that a few other parts have changed, pin valve set (poppet/spring) are now different part numbers aswell, so maybe there are some differences.

Edited by yamaha227, 19 March 2012 - 11:05 AM.


  • dwb79

Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:00 PM

#69

yamaha227, on 19 March 2012 - 11:04 AM, said:

im now loosing oil back the other way and bladder pressure is dropping.

Are you sure?  Have you tried pressurizing the cart and holding it compressed to see if oil is coming out past the cart seal?

  • chadman300

Posted 31 March 2012 - 08:37 AM

#70

Green cart seals. Lots of stiction ,  Inner cart pressure builds up slow
Purple cart seals, No stiction, Inner cart pressure builds up ’FAST’

I would like to have no stiction with no pressure build up.

Edited by chadman300, 31 March 2012 - 08:39 AM.


  • yamaha227

Posted 01 April 2012 - 12:54 AM

#71

chadman300, on 31 March 2012 - 08:37 AM, said:

Green cart seals. Lots of stiction ,  Inner cart pressure builds up slow
Purple cart seals, No stiction, Inner cart pressure builds up ’FAST’

I would like to have no stiction with no pressure build up.

Don't we all :thumbsup:

  • henrics

Posted 22 April 2012 - 03:27 AM

#72

Any ideas why the grove for the seal is 4,6mm deep(on the oem sealholder) when the seal only is 4.2mm..One should think that it would be better if the seal was more "hold in place" for it to seal better, the seal is a bit soft compound..
Any thoughts?

  • mog

Posted 22 April 2012 - 04:57 AM

#73

As long as it doesn't move that's ok, I would worry it will move forward and back? Maybe shim it out?

  • yamaha227

Posted 22 April 2012 - 11:29 PM

#74

henrics, on 22 April 2012 - 03:27 AM, said:

Any ideas why the grove for the seal is 4,6mm deep(on the oem sealholder) when the seal only is 4.2mm..One should think that it would be better if the seal was more "hold in place" for it to seal better, the seal is a bit soft compound..
Any thoughts?

No idea, maybe to allow oil pressure through to the inner seal lip? Find a nice size oring to put in there to pack it out if you want, or make up a spacer. I made a spacer/washer up so i could use the thinner showa seals in the wp holder. First ride on them today, havent checked bladder px yet but felt ok. Last seals i was trialing lasted about 20 hours then let go and leaked about half the inner chamber oil into the outer during a weekends racing... didnt feel too good.

  • henrics

Posted 23 April 2012 - 10:02 AM

#75

yamaha227, on 22 April 2012 - 11:29 PM, said:

No idea, maybe to allow oil pressure through to the inner seal lip? Find a nice size oring to put in there to pack it out if you want, or make up a spacer. I made a spacer/washer up so i could use the thinner showa seals in the wp holder. First ride on them today, havent checked bladder px yet but felt ok. Last seals i was trialing lasted about 20 hours then let go and leaked about half the inner chamber oil into the outer during a weekends racing... didnt feel too good.
Made the sleeves 4,0x18,0 to fit the skf seal better.

henrics, on 09 March 2012 - 02:26 PM, said:

Thanks alot :banghead:
Meassured the seal and its 4.2mm high at the edges and maybe 3,7-3,8 at the inner edge so i made my depth 4,0mm so that the metalring above the seal would hold it in place.
Maybe i should  copy yamaha227:s idea and machine the sealholders inner edge and make a new sleeve that holds 2 seals :thumbsup:



Posted Image
seal head mod dual seals wp tc by henso72, on Flickr

yamaha227, on 22 April 2012 - 11:29 PM, said:

No idea, maybe to allow oil pressure through to the inner seal lip? Find a nice size oring to put in there to pack it out if you want, or make up a spacer. I made a spacer/washer up so i could use the thinner showa seals in the wp holder. First ride on them today, havent checked bladder px yet but felt ok. Last seals i was trialing lasted about 20 hours then let go and leaked about half the inner chamber oil into the outer during a weekends racing... didnt feel too good.
What kind ogf seal was that?

  • yamaha227

Posted 23 April 2012 - 04:47 PM

#76

It was a seal given to me to try by Dave (dwb79). Its the same cart seal synergy seals is selling.

  • yamaha227

Posted 15 May 2012 - 11:00 PM

#77

Ok, so i have found and fixed my problem. Seems I was on the right track with the Cartridge not blowing off pressure/oil early/easy enough and that some other parts have changed along the way since 07/08, not just the screw sleave and cart seal that everyone has been changing.
I searched through various parts diagrams on the WP CC forks since 08 and discovered that there are some other parts numbers that have changed and been updated. I ordered these new parts and compared them side by side.

The Pin/poppet length has decreased from 9.6 to 9.4mm and the shoulder that the spring sits on is now thinner, allowing more room for the spring on the poppet = less preload on the spring. Spring seat to top of pin has increased from 5.8 to 6.4mm

Posted Image

The screw sleave has also now changed for 2012. The recess where the cart seal sits is now 6.6mm deep, the seal sits in alot further and with a nicer compression in the seal holder. The cup washer has also changed that sits on top of the screw sleave, it now has a shoulder on it that sits down in the screw sleave against the cart seal, holding it nicely in place.... no gap now.

Posted Image

These are the part numbers required if anyone is updating 08 CC forks,

Pin kit 48600977S
Cup washer 48601056
Purple cart seal 48600829
Screw sleave 48601055S

The 10, 11 year model forks dont need the pin kit, but changes have been made this year to the other parts.

So i fitted all the new parts today, bleed the inner cart, installed BV assembly, charged bladder, compressed damp rod and the poppet relieved the excess pressure on its own without having to crack the poppet like i used to, just like the new CC forks do.

So finally i have this issue sorted. Took some stuffing around, but hopefuly this info will help some others out.

Looking forward to having a fork that stays consistent now and doesnt ramp up the bladder pressure to 28 psi like it did after last weekends racing.

  • delleetodd

Posted 16 May 2012 - 07:21 AM

#78

Thanks for figuring this out.  Looks like I have some work to do.  I have 2008 forks that are updated except for the newest seal holders and valve.

  • MRW

Posted 16 May 2012 - 09:19 AM

#79

Awesome thread!! Awesome thread!!

  • kan3

Posted 16 May 2012 - 09:36 AM

#80

Sometimes I wonder why suspension manufacturers aren't held to some warranty process when they design faulty products.




 
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