2005 wr450 cosmetic update (lots of pics)


94 replies to this topic
  • MANIAC998

Posted June 02, 2012 - 11:21 AM

#81

I've got the same seat, and use it on my journeys in Baja. I've had a few 200 mile days, and even with a great seat, my butt was still sore after that many hours in the saddle! Your results may vary!!
Maniac

  • NateInRoundRockTX

Posted August 08, 2012 - 03:32 PM

#82

I am sure that you are fine. Just do your normal inspections. The Yamaha's are bulletproof. My bike has run a long time and a lot of hours with minimal failures and minimal wear on the drive train..

This was initially a cosmetic update. The bike was running just fine when I took it down and it was b y chance that I decided to take a look inside the engine. Since I never really stress the engine, I couldn't really tell the head gasket was blown.

The good thing is that the head is getting new exhaust valves, all new valve springs and all the seats recut for $350, which is cheap. I surely can't complain about that. When I add the new piston, it will be good for another 500hrs.

Wow! $350. Where do you get your parts from? I have found the best prices at PowerSportsPlus.com for all my OEM parts. I see that you did not mention intake valves. Isn't it a good practice to replace those at the same time since it is all tore apart anyway? I just noticed my intake journals on my 2003 WR450F are scored and I can't remove two of the three buckets due to the metal being worn down. I have never checked the clearances since I bought the bike used back in 2008 until about two weeks ago and the intake clearances were super tight. I couldn't even get a 0.04mm feeler gauge in two of the three. I took off the cam and freaked out when I noticed how bad the journals were. I read how somebody had the problem and just put it all back together and rode a couple years without any problems. I have been looking for a new head but can't afford $800 and have not seen any used ones around. Can anybody direct me to what is involved in reconditioning my cylinder head as well as the average cost for the repair at a machine shop? I found a reputable machine man here in the Austin ,TX area but I don't think that he does this particular work when I told him about it. He mentioned the process but does not do it. Anybody know of someone in the Austin area that would do this and the cost? Please respond back. I'm desperate about getting the bike on the trails again. Thanks.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted August 08, 2012 - 04:04 PM

#83

Wow! $350. Where do you get your parts from? I have found the best prices at PowerSportsPlus.com for all my OEM parts. I see that you did not mention intake valves. Isn't it a good practice to replace those at the same time since it is all tore apart anyway? I just noticed my intake journals on my 2003 WR450F are scored and I can't remove two of the three buckets due to the metal being worn down. I have never checked the clearances since I bought the bike used back in 2008 until about two weeks ago and the intake clearances were super tight. I couldn't even get a 0.04mm feeler gauge in two of the three. I took off the cam and freaked out when I noticed how bad the journals were. I read how somebody had the problem and just put it all back together and rode a couple years without any problems. I have been looking for a new head but can't afford $800 and have not seen any used ones around. Can anybody direct me to what is involved in reconditioning my cylinder head as well as the average cost for the repair at a machine shop? I found a reputable machine man here in the Austin ,TX area but I don't think that he does this particular work when I told him about it. He mentioned the process but does not do it. Anybody know of someone in the Austin area that would do this and the cost? Please respond back. I'm desperate about getting the bike on the trails again. Thanks.

Not sure where you are... but there are a couple of guys who can repair those cam journals. Any reputable shop that deals with motorcycle heads should be able to handle it.

I get my parts from the Yamaha dealer. (www.ncymotorsports.com) I only replaced the ones that needed replacing. I didn't replace them "just because". In my case the exhaust valves where pitted and the coating was worn off. My intakes were good. They are subject to a lot less heat than the exhaust valves. At the same time that I replace the two exhaust valves, I replaced all 5 valve springs and valve seals. Then they recut the seats and bead blasted the entire head to clean off all the carbon. Then they cleaned up the cam journals. They are good now.

www.enginedynamics.com will repair those cam journals for about $150 (which is what they quoted me). I ultimately had mine done by ASRacing. Either shop can do the work for a price that is much less than buying a new head.

I had the same problem as you where I could not get the buckets out. I used a socket and a ratchet extension to lightly tap it. That removed that little lip. It took a couple of seconds

Here is a pic of mine before I sent it out.

Posted Image

  • MaxPower

Posted August 09, 2012 - 04:57 PM

#84

I like the graphics on this WR . There are so many choices of graphics compared to back in the day and still it's rare that I like many styles more than I do OEM.
The Hurricane Kit graphics look good to me too.
I'd like to design a set that looks like a current version of my 77 IT175

  • SEDUCE

Posted August 12, 2012 - 06:30 PM

#85

hey mate what brand of tail light is that and does it have turn signals on it?

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted August 13, 2012 - 12:26 PM

#86

That is a baja designs style tail light with LED lights. I got it from RockyMountain ATV

  • gon_ridn

Posted August 20, 2012 - 12:49 PM

#87

Nice job! Bike looks great.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Gnash Britches

Posted July 02, 2016 - 06:03 PM

#88

Now... the steering head bearing needs to be changed. We know that the top one comes out easy, Then you may need a press to deal with the bottom one right?

WRONG! I will show you how I changed that lower beearing by myself.

Here is how I did it...

First, with the forks still in the lower clamps, I lay it down on the grass and use a hammer and a screwdriver to basically tear off the outer part of the existing bearing. With a little care, the outer part will come off and leave the inner pressed on piece in place. Pics below

024LowerSteeringBearings01.JPG

025LowerSteeringBearings02.JPG



Then I take a screw driver and hammer off the pressed fit piece with some steady and deliberate blows. After a while, it starts to come off. Its just not that hard to do and took me three minutes

026LowerSteeringBearings03.JPG

Keep going with the screw driver and hammer, be gentle and easy...

027LowerSteeringBearings04.JPG

Then it comes off. Remove the forks from the clamps and you've just saved yourself $20 and a bunch of time

Now I can get ready to install the new lower bearing. Again... no need for a press or to take it to the shop. What you see pictured below is the lower triple clamp, a set of new bearings and races (ebay) , some grease and a couple of tools, including a 1.25 X 18 inch piece of galvanized pipe from Lowes

028LowerSteeringBearings05.JPG

Just start greasing the lower bearing (be sure to know the difference between the top and bottom) and start assembling it on the lower triple clamp. Then we will use that last little piece of the old bearing to help us press the bearing down on to the shaft. Its a real tight fit and it doesn't go on with out a little force

029LowerSteeringBearings06.JPG


Then slip the pipe over the shaft on top of the old bearing (what's left of it) and start giving it a few gentle taps. Notice I put a block of wood beneath it. It will take about 20--25 taps of the hammer and the bearing will be where it needs to be. The old bearing will be press on too, but we will remove it.

030LowerSteeringBearings07.JPG

031LowerSteeringBearings08.JPG



Again, break out your screwdriver, give it a few whacks and the old one will come off. You will then have a perfectly pressed on lower bearing

032LowerSteeringBearings09.JPG


033LowerSteeringBearings10.JPG

All I have to do now is lube it up a bit and this part is all done.

Simple! Total time: 30 mins.


I was stoked to come across your method but wasn't as lucky as you.

Couldn't for the life of me get the lower bearing to move and just ended up chipping the lip in a number of places.

Guess I'll admit defeat and take it off to the shop tomorrow!

Image1467511408.067694.jpg

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 02, 2016 - 08:13 PM

#89

I was stoked to come across your method but wasn't as lucky as you.

Couldn't for the life of me get the lower bearing to move and just ended up chipping the lip in a number of places.

Guess I'll admit defeat and take it off to the shop tomorrow!

attachicon.gifImage1467511408.067694.jpg

Boy... this was a while ago.   But, I remember it well.   Too bad the Thumpertalk deleted most of the  build thread.

 

That being said...   Dont give up on it.  In the picture where you see me with the screw driver removing the lower bearing I had to lay it on the grass and step on it to stop it from moving.  

 

I swear I gave it at least 20 gentle taps so I could stay on that lip.   Then I flipped it over, and gave it 20 more.    Trust me...   It will come off.   

 

Be patient, not too agressive.  Just firm but not hard taps.   No single blow will do it.

 

You got this! 



  • Gnash Britches

Posted July 03, 2016 - 02:19 AM

#90

Boy... this was a while ago. But, I remember it well. Too bad the Thumpertalk deleted most of the build thread.

That being said... Dont give up on it. In the picture where you see me with the screw driver removing the lower bearing I had to lay it on the grass and step on it to stop it from moving.

I swear I gave it at least 20 gentle taps so I could stay on that lip. Then I flipped it over, and gave it 20 more. Trust me... It will come off.

Be patient, not too agressive. Just firm but not hard taps. No single blow will do it.

You got this!


Great that you replied! Thought it would be unlikely on such an old thread, so thanks a lot.

I tried for about 30 minutes and just couldn't get it to budge. I don't know if it's just been on there too long and is seized.

Anyway, I chipped the bearing inner up that much that I don't have anything to seat the screwdriver against anymore so I'm all out of options I think and will need to call in the cavalry.

The good news is that I did manage to do everything else and have saved myself quite a bit of money and won't be afraid to try it again next time!

Can't remember if you mentioned this but I used the old bearing races flipped upside down to drive the new ones in, then finished off using the edge of a socket.

Thanks for taking the time way back when to document this in detail. Gave me a lot of confidence going into the hole.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 03, 2016 - 11:16 AM

#91

Great that you replied! Thought it would be unlikely on such an old thread, so thanks a lot.

I tried for about 30 minutes and just couldn't get it to budge. I don't know if it's just been on there too long and is seized.

Anyway, I chipped the bearing inner up that much that I don't have anything to seat the screwdriver against anymore so I'm all out of options I think and will need to call in the cavalry.

The good news is that I did manage to do everything else and have saved myself quite a bit of money and won't be afraid to try it again next time!

Can't remember if you mentioned this but I used the old bearing races flipped upside down to drive the new ones in, then finished off using the edge of a socket.

Thanks for taking the time way back when to document this in detail. Gave me a lot of confidence going into the hole.

No problem.  Yes, the old was flipped upside down is what I used.  I put the pipe over it and tapped it with the hammer.

 

I bet 9 times out of 10 it would have worked.

 

Just in case you want to see all the stuff I did, here are the pics.     I tore the bike down to the frame, painted it, refresh the engine, then reassembled.

 

Here are the pics.  You'll have to find the thread with the text.   BUt its on thumpertalk somewhere.

 

 

http://www.pdis.com/stuff/WR450/



  • Gnash Britches

Posted July 03, 2016 - 03:38 PM

#92

No problem.  Yes, the old was flipped upside down is what I used.  I put the pipe over it and tapped it with the hammer.

 

I bet 9 times out of 10 it would have worked.

 

Just in case you want to see all the stuff I did, here are the pics.     I tore the bike down to the frame, painted it, refresh the engine, then reassembled.

 

Here are the pics.  You'll have to find the thread with the text.   BUt its on thumpertalk somewhere.

 

 

http://www.pdis.com/stuff/WR450/

 

Great stuff, thanks. Really enjoyed following along for your build. Nothing more satisfying than bringing a bike back to shine.



  • Gnash Britches

Posted July 03, 2016 - 08:18 PM

#93

Thought I'd give you an update, just_a. Took it into the bike shop and they busted it off for me using a big chisel. Mine has a seal underneath which became a casualty and there's only about 1/4 of the lip left on the bearing inner now. But they didn't charge me so I guess that still counts as DIY, haha.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 03, 2016 - 09:58 PM

#94

Thought I'd give you an update, just_a. Took it into the bike shop and they busted it off for me using a big chisel. Mine has a seal underneath which became a casualty and there's only about 1/4 of the lip left on the bearing inner now. But they didn't charge me so I guess that still counts as DIY, haha.

Nice.   But if they used a big chisel then you know for next time to keep doing what you were doing.    Your approach was validated.

 

Good luck.



  • Gnash Britches

Posted July 04, 2016 - 03:32 PM

#95

Nice.   But if they used a big chisel then you know for next time to keep doing what you were doing.    Your approach was validated.

 

Good luck.

 

100%. I also just picked up a nice off cut of steel tube from the local steel supplier. So far I'm still at $0 after the cost of the bearings.  :ride:

 

File 5-07-2016, 9 26 59 AM.jpeg






 
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