2011 yz450f review


33 replies to this topic
  • FZ1426

Posted February 29, 2012 - 07:57 PM

#21

That is interesting. Maybe a throttle body tweak?

No, I'm sure it's just a slight change in the fuel/ignition map off idle. I have the tuner and have no desire to change my '11 mapping at all.

If I had the '10 I'd definitely retard the timing a little off idle and/or richen up the fuel off idle to soften up that over responsiveness. That's all it would take.

  • BBrown626

Posted February 29, 2012 - 08:06 PM

#22

My gyty tuner is set to arrive tomorrow. i'll give it a shot.

  • FZ1426

Posted February 29, 2012 - 08:35 PM

#23

Here's some usefull info.

http://i55.photobuck...6/GYTR_0001.jpg

  • dcrider942

Posted March 06, 2012 - 09:33 AM

#24

I came off a 2006 YZ450 which I spent a lot of time getting to turn great, absorb small bumps incredibly, but not bottom on big hits, and gearing settings. I raced MX for years, then raced Pro/Expert Supermoto, but having a family put that all on the back burner, hence no new bike for a while...well, years.

I bought a 2011 YZ450 leftover, and got an FMF 4.1 RCT complete exhaust, tuner, skid plate, and extra filters for pretty close to a 2012 price with no extras. (Good choice for me because I will revalve the suspension anyway to suit me, and the changes to the 2012 didn't seem worth the extra money, along with still having to purchase the aftermarket parts to improve the bikes downfalls)

The first time I rode the 2011, I felt the dreaded 'Vagueness', 'Chatter', or whatever you want to call it, going into corners. It freaked me out so bad, I almost wanted to jump off thinking I was going to crash anyway, BUT, once the bike leaned into the turn, POOF, it was gone. I stole the rear link off my '06 because it was the 1.5mm longer, like all the tests suggested. BIG difference!! I then changed the exhaust, mapping, sag, fork height, and installed the 2.5mm offset rear engine collars, with ALL different combinations to test. In the end liked the following set-up the best ( like everything on a bike, these are personnal preferances ):
- FMF 4.1 RCT full system
- the Jay Marmont mapping
- 50 tooth rear sprocket
- DT-1 'Over the Cage' filter
- 2.5mm offset rear engine collars
- Stock fork height
- 105mm sag
- Bridgestone 403 front tire( was an immediate improvement over the stock Dunlop 742FA )
- Maxxis IT 110/90 19 rear (was a present for Xmas but works great and lasts forever)

I also revalved the forks slightly to absorb small bumps better, but will be digging back into them, as well as the shock, to suit me even more. I DID however notice a slight difficulty shifting into neutral. On my '06, we would modify the shift drum to make it easier to get into neutral when you wanted, but harder to have a false neutral when changing gears. I will be doing it to this bike as well. I also went to a 50 tooth rear sprocket to accomadate for my style of riding as well as pretty much eliminating the 'Fall off your face' feel of the power when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear when the set-up is ALL stock. I also installed 'Scorpian Racing' Radiator supports because they are thick as hell, and utilize a cage style system as well as the rear support-to-frame brace like the Works Connection 'stamped' braces. These 'Scorpian' supports have taken some hard hits already and haven't budged!

Happy with the changes and happy I bought the bike. I rode a 2011 CRF450, a 2011 RMZ450, 2012 RMZ450 and with every bike needing a handful of modifications to suit "THE RIDER", but I stuck with the Yamaha for reliability.

Hope this helps! Have fun with whatever choice you make

Edited by dcrider942, March 06, 2012 - 09:40 AM.


  • cowboyona426

Posted March 06, 2012 - 11:42 AM

#25

I DID however notice a slight difficulty shifting into neutral. On my '06, we would modify the shift drum to make it easier to get into neutral when you wanted, but harder to have a false neutral when changing gears. I will be doing it to this bike as well.


Do you mind sharing what you did? You can PM me to keep from derailing this thread.

  • MXKyle

Posted March 07, 2012 - 06:31 AM

#26

At 42 this might be the last bike I buy, this bike rocks and I am totally happy I bought it. I doubt there is a "bad" 450 mx bike but I definately made this right choice with this one!

Steve


I had to laugh at this last line. That's because this is exactly what my dad started saying about the time he turned 50. He still says the same thing every time he buys a new bike. BTW, he's 77 now and loving his new RM450. :bonk:

--KT--

  • ah665

Posted March 07, 2012 - 06:36 AM

#27

I had to laugh at this last line. That's because this is exactly what my dad started saying about the time he turned 50. He still says the same thing every time he buys a new bike. BTW, he's 77 now and loving his new RM450. :bonk:

--KT--

Thats awesome, Kyle. I hope I can still be riding when I'm that age, like your dad is.

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  • FZ1426

Posted March 07, 2012 - 09:31 AM

#28

I just came off an 06 CRF 450 and am really digging the change. I too read reviews, talked to folks and really thought about this before I purchased this bike. I am glad I did! I agree that the air filter is easy to get to and clean. I always hated the way the filter was on my honda. The first time I rode it I had the stock pipe on it but put the FMF GYTR slip on, on it and it definately made a difference. It seemed it give it harder acceleration at the crack of the throttle. I am starting to get used to the "it's about to pull my arms out of their sockets" feel. It feels that much different than my honda in that department too. I have stock gearing, ride MX tracks only and don't think I need to change it at all. There have been a few times that I entered a corner in too high a gear but that's my bad. The cornering isn't quite as good as I had hoped, some of that is my riding style though. I tend to "dab" my foot instead of getting my leg up by the front fender like I should and looking thru or rolling my head down and looking at the exit instead of looking at where my tire is going. Again, that is my bad and when I concentrate and do it "right" the bike turns much, much better. The front forks have seemed to be a little stiff at times (breaking and acceleration bumps) but I am not giving up yet, every ride I adjust a little more and it is slowly getting better.

I do have the GYTR tuner but I haven't even pulled it out of the box! I feel the power is that good. I will try out some of the suggested settings posted on this web site to see the difference. I don't reget buying it but definately don't need it.

At 42 this might be the last bike I buy, this bike rocks and I am totally happy I bought it. I doubt there is a "bad" 450 mx bike but I definately made this right choice with this one!

Steve


Ha! That's what I said at 47 back in '07 when I bought my CRF...Actually it's just what I told my wife to get her off my back....Problem is they keep coming out with really cool new bikes!

BTW you have to put a better front tire on the YZ before you can even start talking about front end feel and cornering. The second thing you have to do is stop listening to all the nonsense about lowering links bla bla bla. That's exactly the wrong thing to do if you want a bike to corner better. All you have to do is take Yamaha's advice in the manual where it says to run the sag at 90-100mm. Any more than that and you can't expect any bike to turn well and still have all the other positive characteristics of the YZ.

  • Steve 396

Posted March 07, 2012 - 02:57 PM

#29

I hear you guys! As of now I have NO plans on stopping. I love it! I wanted to ride ever since I was a kid and finally got the chance to do so at age 31. Keeping my son on a couple of bikes is expensive (practice and race) so that is the main reason I say that.

I have been thinking of changing to a MX 51 in the front. Several folks here are running them and my son has one on his practice bike and they all like them. Sometimes my front feels like it is going to slide out and I attribute it all to the stock front tire.....

Steve

  • aja342

Posted March 08, 2012 - 07:05 AM

#30

I came off a 2006 YZ450 which I spent a lot of time getting to turn great, absorb small bumps incredibly, but not bottom on big hits, and gearing settings. I raced MX for years, then raced Pro/Expert Supermoto, but having a family put that all on the back burner, hence no new bike for a while...well, years.

I bought a 2011 YZ450 leftover, and got an FMF 4.1 RCT complete exhaust, tuner, skid plate, and extra filters for pretty close to a 2012 price with no extras. (Good choice for me because I will revalve the suspension anyway to suit me, and the changes to the 2012 didn't seem worth the extra money, along with still having to purchase the aftermarket parts to improve the bikes downfalls)

The first time I rode the 2011, I felt the dreaded 'Vagueness', 'Chatter', or whatever you want to call it, going into corners. It freaked me out so bad, I almost wanted to jump off thinking I was going to crash anyway, BUT, once the bike leaned into the turn, POOF, it was gone. I stole the rear link off my '06 because it was the 1.5mm longer, like all the tests suggested. BIG difference!! I then changed the exhaust, mapping, sag, fork height, and installed the 2.5mm offset rear engine collars, with ALL different combinations to test. In the end liked the following set-up the best ( like everything on a bike, these are personnal preferances ):
- FMF 4.1 RCT full system
- the Jay Marmont mapping
- 50 tooth rear sprocket
- DT-1 'Over the Cage' filter
- 2.5mm offset rear engine collars
- Stock fork height
- 105mm sag
- Bridgestone 403 front tire( was an immediate improvement over the stock Dunlop 742FA )
- Maxxis IT 110/90 19 rear (was a present for Xmas but works great and lasts forever)

I also revalved the forks slightly to absorb small bumps better, but will be digging back into them, as well as the shock, to suit me even more. I DID however notice a slight difficulty shifting into neutral. On my '06, we would modify the shift drum to make it easier to get into neutral when you wanted, but harder to have a false neutral when changing gears. I will be doing it to this bike as well. I also went to a 50 tooth rear sprocket to accomadate for my style of riding as well as pretty much eliminating the 'Fall off your face' feel of the power when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear when the set-up is ALL stock. I also installed 'Scorpian Racing' Radiator supports because they are thick as hell, and utilize a cage style system as well as the rear support-to-frame brace like the Works Connection 'stamped' braces. These 'Scorpian' supports have taken some hard hits already and haven't budged!

Happy with the changes and happy I bought the bike. I rode a 2011 CRF450, a 2011 RMZ450, 2012 RMZ450 and with every bike needing a handful of modifications to suit "THE RIDER", but I stuck with the Yamaha for reliability.

Hope this helps! Have fun with whatever choice you make


Did you switch back to the stock linkage?

I am useing the YAMALINK (race) because I have a hard time touching the ground, I don't know if I want to add in the engine mounts in addition to the link or just keep working at the handleing with out the mounts.

  • dcrider942

Posted March 08, 2012 - 08:11 AM

#31

Do you mind sharing what you did? You can PM me to keep from derailing this thread.


Look at the shift drum/gear/star(they call it a "segmant" in the microfische) when you shift from neutral to first or second, you will see where the 'valley' is for the neutral position(the shift lever roller will sit down in it). We would partially grind down the high points on both sides of the 'valley' making the shift detent go over the neutral 'valley' easier. Making the false neutral from first to second hard to happen. And took less pressure on shift lever to get into neutral. In MX it is not often to be in first, but in Supermoto the gearing was way different so it was common to need to shift between 1st and 2nd. It will still take less effort to shift into neutral though. Hope this helps

Did you switch back to the stock linkage?

I am useing the YAMALINK (race) because I have a hard time touching the ground, I don't know if I want to add in the engine mounts in addition to the link or just keep working at the handleing with out the mounts.


Went back to stock linkage but still run sag at 105mm

  • rr558

Posted March 09, 2012 - 07:54 AM

#32

I hear you guys! As of now I have NO plans on stopping. I love it! I wanted to ride ever since I was a kid and finally got the chance to do so at age 31. Keeping my son on a couple of bikes is expensive (practice and race) so that is the main reason I say that.

I have been thinking of changing to a MX 51 in the front. Several folks here are running them and my son has one on his practice bike and they all like them. Sometimes my front feels like it is going to slide out and I attribute it all to the stock front tire.....

Steve

Don't use the mx51 from as it is a wide tire (even the 80 series) and will skip and slide across the dirt. Stick with the 403

  • grayracer513

Posted March 09, 2012 - 09:30 AM

#33

Don't use the mx51 from as it is a wide tire (even the 80 series) and will skip and slide across the dirt. Stick with the 403


Entirely depends on the soil on which you use it. The MX51 is an excellent intermediate surface tire with a good tolerance for both mid-soft and mid-hard soils. It doesn't do well in sand, very soft soils, or true hard pack, but if those in the Steve's neighborhood are happy with them, then he probably won't be too disappointed. The 403 is a good one, too, though.

  • BBrown626

Posted March 10, 2012 - 07:29 PM

#34

What does the marmont map do for the bike?





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