Have a 19 foot Thor Vortex that had a clean water tank leak just under the floor, under the kitchen sink. Did not know it was there until the floor started to Sag, the top of the tank had a crack in it. . It cost 500 to fix the leak from the dealer and they wanted 4200.00$ to fix the damage. Way to pricy so we want to try and fix ourself. They told us parts were only 300$ the rest was labor. So am wondering if anyone has ever replaced a floor in a toy hauler. Will have to take the sink and cabinets out and replace the 4X6 wood panel underneath and either put new linoleum per the dealer they said would have to do the whole floor, or patch the area we pull up. Any one have any suggestions?
Damaged Thor Vortex Floor
Started by parasupcon, Feb 08 2012 10:26 PM
3 replies to this topic
Posted 08 February 2012 - 10:26 PM
Have a 19 foot Thor Vortex that had a clean water tank leak just under the floor, under the kitchen sink. Did not know it was there until the floor started to Sag, the top of the tank had a crack in it. . It cost 500 to fix the leak from the dealer and they wanted 4200.00$ to fix the damage. Way to pricy so we want to try and fix ourself. They told us parts were only 300$ the rest was labor. So am wondering if anyone has ever replaced a floor in a toy hauler. Will have to take the sink and cabinets out and replace the 4X6 wood panel underneath and either put new linoleum per the dealer they said would have to do the whole floor, or patch the area we pull up. Any one have any suggestions?
Posted 08 February 2012 - 11:10 PM
I have replaced the flooring in a trailer for a customer once and only once and to do it perfectly right, like back to stock brand new right, it's a bitch! Like the dealer said, labour is the killer but if you have the time.....
Re and Re on the cabinets is the hardest part, most of them are held together with long staples and are that crappy particle board. For some stupid reason they never seem to go back in as good as they do at the factory. The flooring part was the easiest. Cut out said soft spot and replace. I wouldn't put vinyl down, look for something more durable because if not done properly it will bubble after a few months and look like hell. The glue used for vinyl is the most important as cheap glue yields cheap results.
Like I said, I have only done this once and I will never do it again. We were getting paid to do it unlike yourself. 4k seems a little steep though, did you get a quote from somewhere else?
Re and Re on the cabinets is the hardest part, most of them are held together with long staples and are that crappy particle board. For some stupid reason they never seem to go back in as good as they do at the factory. The flooring part was the easiest. Cut out said soft spot and replace. I wouldn't put vinyl down, look for something more durable because if not done properly it will bubble after a few months and look like hell. The glue used for vinyl is the most important as cheap glue yields cheap results.
Like I said, I have only done this once and I will never do it again. We were getting paid to do it unlike yourself. 4k seems a little steep though, did you get a quote from somewhere else?
Posted 08 February 2012 - 11:15 PM
I have done floor repairs before, and they are labor intensive. Not rocket science, but putz work. Materials are minimal. Sometimes it can be a challenge finding sheathing the exact same thickness to match up...some mfgr's seem to have custom thickness flooring material, and have it patented (or so it seems).
Don't get in a hurry, take your time, and if you're getting frustrated, just walk away and take a breather.
Don't dive into this thinking it's going to be a Sunday afternoon project, they never are. Once you tear up the soft spot, you're going to find that the damage extends at least 18" from where the mush is, just keep carving and do it right the first time.
Don't get in a hurry, take your time, and if you're getting frustrated, just walk away and take a breather.
Don't dive into this thinking it's going to be a Sunday afternoon project, they never are. Once you tear up the soft spot, you're going to find that the damage extends at least 18" from where the mush is, just keep carving and do it right the first time.
Posted 16 February 2012 - 07:33 AM
Chickenhauler, on 08 February 2012 - 11:15 PM, said:
...Don't dive into this thinking it's going to be a Sunday afternoon project, they never are. Once you tear up the soft spot, you're going to find that the damage extends at least 18" from where the mush is, just keep carving and do it right the first time.
And expect to find soem other unexpected suprises/cost along the way. If you dont, you wil be lucky. As most said, labor intensive. Dont cut corners trying to save soem of your free labor, spend the extra time, do it up right. Use plywood, particle board is heavy, degrades fast.
Seal it well from the underside if its exposed to the elements.
