Dizle, on 18 March 2012 - 08:50 PM, said:

Agreed.  I like the updated look.  I do find the light output is better than the stocker, but it may just be wishful thinking!  Putting in a larger bulb and using heavier wiring on the stock unit would most likely produce the same increase in lighting.

- is the low beam on top ? high beam on the down low 4'' ?
thanks,,,

D RED, on 20 March 2012 - 01:47 PM, said:

Yep.  Low beam up top.

- Thanks for the info, here is what I cam up with. Re-wired to work with other headlights that I have made and/or used,,, when I got the light, the DOT light, I thought that there was no way for the clear plastic cover to fit, Trail Tech sald that it would not, I think because it would make the light non DOT,,,
But you know how it is, you know the milk is spoiled, and you still smell it?
  Yep, I ordered it just to smell it, and it works,,, No stink, Good item to have for the DOT light if you go off road!
The Trail Tech Light assembly was made for the "STEALTH BUILD"  ( Google DRZ 400 S STEALTH BUILD )

http://youtu.be/EgTxbWYZA1g?hd=1

Enjoy!

Anyone know how to make the low beam on the DS version better? It's pretty usles unless its pitch black out, but then why not use the high? I have a 55w bulb in it and its still crap. Love the high beam though!

Hi, I was wondering if you already have it or if it's not too much trouble, could you post a picture or diagram of how the wiring works to have both lights turn on when set to high beam. I can probably figure it out I just feel better with a picture as I'm somewhat new with electrical systems and wiring. I was considering doing this a while ago then winter came... and I forgot all about it.

glasssandwich, on 23 March 2012 - 05:37 PM, said:

Will you be upgrading the wiring with heavier wires and relays?  If so, you can just use a small diode.  If you are using stock wiring, you will need to find a diode that can handle the full flow of electricity.

I have used a relay system and I attached a diode between the control wires that power the relays.  The diode doesn't have the full power running through it so I just used a small one from an electronics store.

Let us know what your wiring plans are and we can go from there.

This is what I did this weekend and it works great and uses the Drz Relays.  I opened up the switch and I bridged the solder joints between the constant power and the low beam.  This way the low beam always stays on (ya whats new), even when you turn the brights on.  Of course doing this with the stock bulb would cause a melt down, but with a dual bulb system it works great.  Don't want to open the switch up, you could just bridge or connect the yellow with white tracer wire and white wire together outside the switch.  Dont cut the wires.  The bright switch has the yellow wire, yellow with white tracer, and white wire.

This is the switch outside the case.  When you take the switch out, all the switches must come out and be aware the horn switch has a spring.  I soldered the two points together.  I covered the solder and little wire with electrical liquid tape



Sorry for the blurry pictures and dirty bike.  Early morning  Motocross action.

Edited by toadl, 25 March 2012 - 03:27 PM.

Very good.  You are right, the White LO beam wire can be connected to any 12 volt wire switched by the key switch so the HI/LO switch becomes a HI ON/OFF switch and LO is always on.  There are however no headlight relays in a DRZ wire system.  Just the manual switches and wires you were working with.

Noble, on 25 March 2012 - 03:55 PM, said:

According to the service manual, which I probably should have checked before doing this, your correct.

Noble, on 25 March 2012 - 03:55 PM, said:

I use this set-up, power the low beam from the battery (with a on/off switch) or or from the key switch,  and run the hi beam from the handle bar switch, if the handle bar switch gos bad, water, mud, crash, you will have the low beam,  I ride  adventure touring, and like this readundant set-up. I have wired all my lights this way, and just by switching  two wires at the light I can used it as the OEM set up, (low hi beam switch at the bars)

How !@#$ did you get all of the wires to fit behind the light? When I got mine it had an Acewell on it and this is what it looks like back there: