Tool kit & air box
Posted April 18, 2001 - 06:26 AM
I am changing all my fasteners to the allen hex heads so I can do most of the basic maintenance with allen wrenches. I am trying to set up my bike for a minimal ammount of tools needed for the trail. I only want to carry 3way allen wrench in my pouch for tools. I want to mount a small box in the bottom of my airbox. This will consist of a 10 and 12 mm wrench, spark plug wrench, 2 small screw drivers and a small pair of pliers. To me there seems to be pleanty of room in there. If it is done in a way that is secure, watertight and below the intake, do you see any major problems. I am running stock with the exceptopn of the throttle stop and snorkle are removed.
Posted April 18, 2001 - 07:39 AM
IMO allens suck the big one. Just the other night the allen key slipped on one of the upper motor mount fasteners.... The majority of fasteners I've screwed up have been allens. I'd either leave the stock fasteners in place or use something like a Torx that has a much more positive drive. Torx are only a bitch if you don't have the correct tools
[This message has been edited by Brian Meadows (edited 04-18-2001).]
Posted April 19, 2001 - 01:07 AM
I don't think I've ever met someone that prefers torx fasteners over allen. Although torx fasteners can be usable in the better grades, they can be very troublesome even with the proper tools. I have not forgotten a water pump job on a GM V-6...three different sizes of torx bolts, several of which stripped...nothing like that steel to aluminum combination when it comes to "stuck". I think torx would be prone to getting packed with dirt, and be more difficult and time consuming to clean out well enough to bottom your bit properly, when used on a dirt bike. Personally, I'd like to see the lot of torx fasteners and their inventor at the bottom of a smelting pot.
Posted April 19, 2001 - 07:04 AM
I figured I might stir up some differing opinions with this.....
A Torx has much more positive engagement than an allen key. I work for a large electronic test equipment company, we don't use allens on anything because the heads strip to easily. Any place you have an allen drive a torx will work better. It might be marginally more difficult to clean a torx head but I don't see that as a big problem. As far as the GM V6 & stripping threads that doesn't sound like it was the torx problem but a material selection problem. Just think of what would have happened if those had been allen heads...
I say throw allens & their inventor in the smelting pot
Posted April 19, 2001 - 11:52 PM
I can see that the surface area on the torx fasteners should be an advantage. But any tool that has thin sections, and relatively sharp edges, has to be very well maintained to function properly over an extended period. In clean environments, with pristine tools, torx work great. But like phillips bits, the first time it slips, it's all down hill from there. Using the fasteners in the world of grease and wear has not impressed me favorably. And another common problem is when the manufacturer makes the bolt head too thin, and the tool entrance too shallow (as in the G.M. case) - this is also common in allen fasteners.
Posted April 20, 2001 - 06:22 AM
Posted April 20, 2001 - 06:54 AM
I'm sitting here at work trying not to laugh out loud.
Posted April 20, 2001 - 07:23 AM
[This message has been edited by pmaust (edited 04-20-2001).]
Posted April 20, 2001 - 07:29 AM
My son has a rear fender pouch on his TTR. I stuff it with all my tools and plugs.
To keep things from getting beat up. I put a piece of foam in it, to hold things tight.
Don't notice any weight, when I ride
97 KDX220, 86 TTR225, 99 WR400f, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. De-octopussed. Works frame guards and Thumper Rad Guards, Scotts steering damper. Odometer and headlight removed. Cycra Pro-Bend hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank, IMS seat and number plate. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA, Happy Ramblers MXC, Rausch Creek MXC, Tower City Trail Riders.
Posted April 20, 2001 - 10:14 AM
Thanks for the help.
The rest of ya, shuddup about the allens and torx heads. Geeze
Posted April 20, 2001 - 12:48 PM
When in doubt, GAS IT!
Posted April 20, 2001 - 01:02 PM
Posted April 20, 2001 - 04:17 PM
Posted April 20, 2001 - 05:24 PM
I used the larger one on my last DS, a KLR250 for 3 years. Worked great, if you remember to close the damn zipper! There's room for keys, tools, snacks, smokes, and 12 oz water.
I'm all for allen heads. If you have the right tools, it's easy. Mud does clog them, which could be a bad thing.
Check out some aluminum fasteners. I counted something like 60-62 odd non-load bearing bolts that could probably be aluminum and save some weight. Just transfer them to the WR450 next year!
Acerbis makes an aluminum universal front and rear fender brace if you plan on loading it down. I used the front brace on the KLR, but not on the WR. It worked fine, yet adding weight to the front fender made the steering heavier. So the rear is probably the best spot to mount.
BTW, it works on the front fender, and rear with both WR and YZ rear fender setups. It's never fallen off, but I have left the zipper open more times than I care to remember.
I wouldn't put stuff in my airbox. The shape and volume of the box is important for performance. Yes, the weight is centered and lower, but the clip on pack arrangement is way more convenient.
The large Moose packs are about $25. I wore the first one out, and bought another for the WR I liked it so well.
Posted April 23, 2001 - 09:08 PM
Originally posted by pmaust:
I bought a Moose tool pouch that bolts to the rear fender. Has anyone had experience with this type of arrangement? Thanks, Paul
Paul, I went through two sets of tools testing the Moose pouches. I had the fold-over then strap-on-the-back kind. I figure the experiment cost me over $100 and lots of time back tracking to pick up tools. Some of the TT guys were nice enough to help in Moab.
Mike let us know about the air box idea - sounds kinda trick.
If you were going to the trouble of replacing bolts, why not stick with the 10mm hex's? I've tried to replace as much as I could with 10's and 8's???