My new cr250r


61 replies to this topic
  • hardhitwarrior

Posted 08 February 2012 - 03:16 AM

#41

off topic.

if that throttle sticks, is it safe to hold the rear brakes as hard as it goes to stall the bike? will that damage the motor?

what oil and ratio were you when it happen blackcr?

Edited by hardhitwarrior, 08 February 2012 - 03:17 AM.


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  • mynewcr250

Posted 08 February 2012 - 06:48 AM

#42

hardhitwarrior, on 08 February 2012 - 03:16 AM, said:

off topic.

if that throttle sticks, is it safe to hold the rear brakes as hard as it goes to stall the bike? will that damage the motor?

what oil and ratio were you when it happen blackcr?
who cares if it damages the motor. better than breaking your neck, killing yourself, or hurting someone else.

but no, its not going to damage anything.

  • BlackCR25098

Posted 08 February 2012 - 11:59 AM

#43

Well the throttle didn't just stick on mine...I was at the track, LUCKILY on a up hill straight away when I decided to do a little stand up wheelie, got about 30% of the way up, felt great. Next thing I know, I feel the most insane strong onset of powerband I've ever felt in my life, it didn't just stick where I had it, it went to the roof. It was so narly the bike stood straight up and I held it out for a second until I went right up past the balance point. My buddy said it was awesome because I love my bike to death. Said I had no regard for the fall I was reaching for the bike on the way down, bruised my leg/knee and hit my head, but I had the helmet and boots on. Got lucky. The craziest was realizing what was happening and upon letting go of the bike is right about the time it did a literal backflip and ripped the rear fender in 2. Landed on the ground on it's side still in full revv, and the kill switch will not kill the bike when it's in full out stuck rage. I get up slowly, my buddy runs grabs the bike and luckily dumps the clutch and it dies. I had it happen to me once prior starting the bike right after I got it, when it was on the stand. It started and just went to the moon. I still have 8" deep ruts in my sideyard from trying to dump the clutch. Yeah it's the most stress you've ever felt if/when it does happen.

Basically I bought the bike back (previously owned it) and the 2 guys it went through didn't take care of it what so ever, it just sat for 4 years, ridden a handful of times, and my throttle cable was junk, throttle tube junk, the entire throttle assembly I replaced, and the cable wasn't routed correctly. Most likely was the slide getting stuck up in the mantle of the carb. I bought the motion pro vortex throttle kit and replaced it all and completely rebuilt top end, reeds, packing, etc. Moral of the story throttle maintenance always need to be done and a close eye kept on. Had I been approaching a halfway decent jump (which there were plenty of out there) easily could have killed me.

I hung up the rear fender as a reminder...

Edited by BlackCR25098, 08 February 2012 - 12:00 PM.


  • ca_101

Posted 08 February 2012 - 12:57 PM

#44

If you're not moving, or you are moving and you've got the time, pulling the choke will usually kill a bike on a rampage if the kill switch won't do it.

  • BlackCR25098

Posted 08 February 2012 - 01:17 PM

#45

Hahaha nope! Not on mine, it just hit a slightly lower rpm when I pulled it up, still raging hard as hell...I'm telling you when a bike is getting that much fuel and air, near nothing will kill it, not even a kill switch. I promise ya.

No worrys fellas since then I've completely rebuilt and restored the bike mechanically so it doesn't do it anymore. Upon breaking everything down and doing the top end there were quite a few possibilities. Stock reeds had a big crack, but I've been told that can't cause wide open, power valve all gunked up been told that can't either, my throttle assembly and cable was like 10 years old when it stuck, so I'm pretty positive that was the culprit.

  • fishyblob

Posted 08 February 2012 - 08:01 PM

#46

First thing I did when I got my bike is take the throttle completely apart and clean it all. It feels excellent now, well worth the time. I checked today and its geared 14/49. I think im gonna bhuy a 12t front sprocket and see how that does. I think it would better suite my style of riding.

  • hardhitwarrior

Posted 08 February 2012 - 08:26 PM

#47

BlackCR25098, on 08 February 2012 - 01:17 PM, said:

Hahaha nope! Not on mine, it just hit a slightly lower rpm when I pulled it up, still raging hard as hell...I'm telling you when a bike is getting that much fuel and air, near nothing will kill it, not even a kill switch. I promise ya.

No worrys fellas since then I've completely rebuilt and restored the bike mechanically so it doesn't do it anymore. Upon breaking everything down and doing the top end there were quite a few possibilities. Stock reeds had a big crack, but I've been told that can't cause wide open, power valve all gunked up been told that can't either, my throttle assembly and cable was like 10 years old when it stuck, so I'm pretty positive that was the culprit.

did you change the carb slide?

  • BlackCR25098

Posted 08 February 2012 - 10:14 PM

#48

hardhitwarrior, on 08 February 2012 - 08:26 PM, said:

did you change the carb slide?

Negative. It didn't have any wear marks, looked pretty great. The entire throttle assembly held it's own on terrible equipment..

  • fishyblob

Posted 11 March 2012 - 01:32 PM

#49

So I have been riding for the last few weeks, the bike runs absolutely fantastic now. No problems whatsoever with the engine. The problem I am having now is the clutch sticks. I cant put it in first without holding the brakes, and reving the engine a bit otherwise it kills the engine. Once the clutch is engaged it spins freely and works fine. If I ride in one gear for more then maybe 10 seconds it does it again. I pull in the clutch and downshift the engine rpm;s go up like I was not holding the clutch. I pulled the clutch apart and everything looked very normal, besides a small lack of oil. The basket did nto have any grooves worn into it and the clutch disks look worn but still life left in them. I put it all back together topped it off with some new oil and it felt worst then it did before. I can take it back apart and snap some pics if I need to, but everything looked good when it was apart.

Edited by Fishyblob, 11 March 2012 - 01:36 PM.


  • hardhitwarrior

Posted 12 March 2012 - 10:42 AM

#50

change gear type oil or mfg.

  • choppertown

Posted 12 March 2012 - 11:12 AM

#51

Use ATF Type F. Drain your old oil. Fill it up with type f. Ride it and change it out for some fresh aft right after your ride. If that dose not help, then the problem lies in your clutch basket being notched.

  • frdbtr

Posted 12 March 2012 - 11:28 AM

#52

I use rotella 5w 40 synthetic in the clutches of all my bikes.  My cr125 does what you are describing and it got worse with any but the rotella.  My 450 would creep when the oil got hot and no amount of clutch adjustment helped, the rotella fixed that too.  Anyway, just a thought.

  • choppertown

Posted 12 March 2012 - 03:19 PM

#53

rotella is good too. but i still advise flushing ou the bottom end with ATF Type F
then runw hat you want. but fush it out on occation with ATF.

i love the way the clutch feels with ATF.

  • hardhitwarrior

Posted 13 March 2012 - 10:40 AM

#54

why type F and not G?

  • fishyblob

Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:11 AM

#55

Is it safe to run ATF in there instead of actual motorcycle oil or is that just to clean it? How long should I ride it before changing it?

  • choppertown

Posted 14 March 2012 - 02:15 PM

#56

Type f as I know is the only one you can run because it docent have any thing in it that will make your clutch slip.
You can run it in your bike as the trani oil I do and love it.

  • shrubitup

Posted 14 March 2012 - 02:24 PM

#57

choppertown, on 14 March 2012 - 02:15 PM, said:

Type f as I know is the only one you can run because it docent have any thing in it that will make your clutch slip.
You can run it in your bike as the trani oil I do and love it.

I guess I'm too fat, dumb, and happy to notice any difference. I used all sorts of non-motorcycle specific oils in my bikes. Never used Type F but have used SuperTech ATF, MD ATF, and various blends of car oil including the evil "energy conserving". No problems. This was the case with my 250F and Ducati too. :thumbsup:

  • choppertown

Posted 14 March 2012 - 05:21 PM

#58

you may not notice a diffrence. but, it dosent mean it isnt bad for your cluches.

just because a meth smoker dosent see a diffrence..dosent mean there isnt a diffrence with the person.lol

  • shrubitup

Posted 14 March 2012 - 05:38 PM

#59

choppertown, on 14 March 2012 - 05:21 PM, said:

you may not notice a diffrence. but, it dosent mean it isnt bad for your cluches.

just because a meth smoker dosent see a diffrence..dosent mean there isnt a diffrence with the person.lol

but me clutches keeps shifting mighty fine. :thumbsup:

  • choppertown

Posted 14 March 2012 - 05:43 PM

#60

are you a super hard rider?

because i once to used power saving oil in my clutches. and all day long my clutch keeped slipping. untill the day i changed them out for new ones. it wasnt a super noticible slip, but when going full throttle out of a corner, i could hear the motor slipping the clutch.




 
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