My last topic got deleted, I assumed my propblem was with the rectifier. It was! Unforntuetly my problem might also be the regualtor. As i got the bike started in idle the head light switch worked turned on the headlight. Then i rode a bit and it shut off.
No increased voltage to the battery with 3k rpm(bike max is 7500).
So can a bad regualtor burn out a silicon rectifier?
How can i find a aftermarket regulator with only a Ground connection and One power wire.
I have a wiring diagram if it will help

also it seems the OEM regulator is not able to be purchased

I would think this is pretty much the same as the DR/SP400. The original regulator is pants by now. Electrexworld or Paul Goff www.norbsa02.freeuk.com can supply you with what you need. I'd deal with Paul Goff if you are not sure as he will give you technical support. I got mine from electrexworld. The other thing to make sure is the battery is properly earthed. You will get all sorts of weird stuff, blowing bulbs etc if it isn't

might try here, they show the oem unit in stock.
http://www.mrcycles....=1981&fveh=1928

I noticed you waited a long time for an answer. I'll provide this much. Yes, bad regulator can take out the rectifier. It IS possible. If thats the case, you'll have to replace both. I hope you find a source for them that has decent (not ripoff) prices. The actual electrical properties of these items are not unique in the least. One difference you could find on generic replacements is the configuration of the package. These differences can usually be gotten around easily. I was an electronics tech most of my working life and did this kind of cross reference replacement ALL the time.

I found a dealership with some instock not far from me, 120 bucks for the two.
What im more interested in is an aftermarket one, if i can get this thing for 50 bucks...hell yea.
I remeber the day mine went out, it was raining i was riding.

I need to do some work on the bad battery ground and inline fuse holder R&R both.
Anything else i should look into before replacing the two parts?

Problem, ordered from the dealer the part is compltetly diffferent, old one is on the right. New one wants 4 plugs from a wireing harness? I gotta go shopping somewhere else i guess.

And without a datasheet on the "regualtor" theres no way to even get it hooked up. I mean it would probrably work but there not telling which connectors or which.
Or is there a way?

No idea if there's a way,,Kinda shocked they just sell you a Reg/Rec without any sort of wiring guide to it.,Would have been a hell of a lot easier to just get a used 4 wire Reg/Rec from an XL500 and a used two wire regulator from the same bike or from an RFVC 500/600 or from pretty much any Honda 12 volt dirt bike from Ebay or the like and wire them into the loom,,Least you know where there wires are supposed to go..Just compare the two wiring diagrams and hook them up..Sounds easy huh,, Have the XR/XL diagrams if you need them posted,,Bikes 12 volt I assume,,same as the Hondas,,

Here's a link to a few diagrams I posted over a 4strokes,,Study them and think about things,,

http://www.4strokes....?TOPIC_ID=32807

Here you go, half way down the page. Right in the Thumpertalk store. Troy341

Well if you say those work then this one i got should work too, Thing is i hooked up a 12v battery and i checked all the leads it sent the 12volts right through no 7.2v.

How can i probe this to check where to connect ground, AC volts, rectifier + and-?(i assume its a reg/rec since it has 4 connections.

So is that Reg/rec a 6 volt one??,,is the SP500 a 6 volt system??,,I can find no information anywhere on the net after extensive searching on what I believe to be the Shindengen SH664-6,, I have no idea why you even need this 7.2 volt thing., If there's no indication of any type of pin numbering or layout of said pins on the reg/rec I have no idea how you'd hook it up,.If it is 6 volt best I can say is once again find a Honda trailbike or road bike that ran a 6 volt system and get a used reg/rec and voltage regulator from one of them.,,Compare the wiring schematics and attempt to figure out the hook up to your loom from there,

i think its 7.2 volts to charge the battery? Even so it would make for brighter lights no?
The bike is a 6 volt system yes, I will do some looking around but all the reg/rec i have seen have one to many wires, or just don't show a datasheet on the product before you buy it.

Thanks

meantime heres some videos

I found this one the sindegen site
http://www.shindenge...ro/catalog.html
If you look at the single phase full wave reg/rec if has a connection diagram

If someone can help me decode it(im not sure about it) that'd be great

Remember my unit has 4 connections i thin k this diagram shows 4 aswell?

It actually has the sh644 kind of close

So it might be both the regulator and the rectifier in one

Thats what i beleive to be the correct connections

From the left

Battery > Magneto power wire> The terminal that went to rectifier negative( check the diagram at the top)> then ofcourse ground.

Thing is the unit has the connectors in a table 2x2 so it still guessing after that.


I also emailed shindegen about this particaular parts diagram so maybe they will have information for me, cant wait for this to get working.

now that i look at it more i think the battery + and the ground needs to be switched.
Becuase the left side has the "inductor" which stores/absorbes ac/dc current, while the ride side has a symbol meaning there is constant current there.

If there is a flaw in any of this please let me know

And now the same regulator combined with the new rectifier is working again, i swear this bike like to torture me.

Reg/Recs and Regulator hook ups and problems tortured me for weeks
on my latest put together 600. Wish I could help but I just don't
understand wiring hookup when there are no wire colours to deal
with. I've looked around for a six volt Honda Reg/Rec but 6volt are few
and far between among even older bikes..ie pre 78. The Honda ones generally have four wires on the Reg/rec and two on a regulator. You only have two wires on the reg/rec and one on the reg..Makes it even more
complicated for my mind to digest even after extensive study of your
wiring diagram and more modern Honda ones.

Hi milkman6453

Your old bike has a very simple electrical system.....Your alternator/magneto does two main jobs and has two coils. The left one runs the CDI and ignition and is seperate from the right coil...let's forget about it for now..

The right coil has a "tap" (look on the wiring diagram it's a wire hooked about half way up the coil)...the tap wire is to provide reduced voltage to the headlight and to further keep the headlight from burning out there is a simple regulator. The regulator is set to provide the proper headlight voltage even when the voltage spikes. It's a "zener" diode that simply shorts excess voltage to ground. Putting 12 volts through it and grounding the ground wire usually destroys a regulator like this because the regulator has to dissapate huge amounts of current it wasn't designed for. Don't test it like that.....test it by measuring the voltage at the headlight under varying throttle conditions. The voltage should fluctuate a little at low rpm, but should stabilize at 6 or 7 volts regardless of rpm in the case of a 6 volt system. An easier test of the regulator is just to observe the headlight to see the brightness stabilizes at some lower rpm instead of getting brighter through the entire rev range. Bikes that have bad regulators also usually have blown headlights.

The entire right coil is also used to charge the battery. Because the battery is more forgiving with voltage they use the entire coil and this voltage isn't regulated...instead it is rectified from AC to a pulsing DC voltage which is connected directly to the battery. The battery then runs the signal lights, horn, brake light, and neutral light....things that have to run even if the bike motor isn't running. So to recap....on your system the regulator limits the voltage to the headlight.....the rectifier makes DC voltage to charge the battery....but they are not associated with each other.

To check the rectifier, simply measure the DC voltage on the positive battery terminal when the bike is running. It should vary between 6 and 7,5 volts or so depending on rpm.

I think your replacement item is a combined "voltage regulator/rectifier" made for a more modern system. You should be able to go to the boneyard and find a suitable regulator and rectifier off of almost any 70's motorcycle. Both items should only have 2 wires. I would test them before replacing them. Also, most electrical problems on older bikes are because of a bad battery, or a bad connction.

Just some shots in the dark...
patuca

Thanks for the info.

Wierdly enough when the bike is OFF the battery reads good DC voltage at 6.88v. BUT it also reads 12.04v AC with the bike off. I don't understand this i thought AC comes from moving mechanical parts and batteries are unable to produce AC current.

As for now cleaning the grounds seemed to have fixed the regualtor/rectifer problem, and im waiting for Shindegen to reply back on the proper wiring terminals on the new unit, so for one day if i do need to install it I have the proper information.