jruba, on 21 February 2012 - 03:26 PM, said:

I heard you lose HP though!?

Pumpkin450sxf, on 22 February 2012 - 12:12 PM, said:

Not if it's synthetic. You actually gain HP due to less frictional losses.

MY 450 always pops out and stalls in tight corners unless I am right on top of the clutch. LOTS OF WORK AT MY AGE. Is this what ya calling fame out .How much are these clutchs and where can I get one. Just wondering............Ok I found it Little bit out of daddys price range . Il just have to get in better shape ...

Edited by bruins, 22 February 2012 - 06:28 PM.

bruins, on 22 February 2012 - 06:21 PM, said:

There's a big range of prices.  Rekluse EXP 2.0 = $399 retail.

bruins, on 22 February 2012 - 06:21 PM, said:

yes, what 2st4ever above said. the exp2.0 is $399 retail. easy to instal, 30 day return policy. Save the pennies and try it ! Do keep in mind you don't want to abuse the clutch with this model as you remove some plates to have it fit. Riding in too high a gear and expecting the clutch to do your work is gonna end up with a smoked clutch. Just ride in the gear you normally would and you will be fine. I have 40+ hours on mine, with 4 harescramble races and just measured my fiber plates. 3.00mm+ (like new). usin Rotella 5/40 synth blue jug.

Edited by MELK-MAN, 22 February 2012 - 10:12 PM.

carlt828, on 22 February 2012 - 12:40 PM, said:

in all seriousness i dont recomnd synthetic in many applications. unless its a motor that never stops running. synthetic does not stick to metals like regular petrolium based oils. so if you let it set for a bit then fire it up there a chance that your dry strarting your motor because all the oil is laying in the bottom. the synthetic oils aldo can solidify causing it to wear out faster than petrolium based when under heavy pressure like it would be under in heavy machinery
also many oils which claim to be synthetic are not what most consider synthetic. there is an article on this some where. ill post a link.

rpxtreme03, on 23 February 2012 - 10:31 AM, said:

I've got 136k on my '01 Kawasaki ZRX and it still runs great with no oil consumption. I've been running full synthetic since I bought it in '03 with 11k on the clock. I think I'll stick to my sythetic oil since it works for me.

Not really trying to give you a hard time rpxtreme. I was just having a little fun. I've been on my share of BBS debates.

rpxtreme03, on 23 February 2012 - 10:31 AM, said:

ohmygod.. Just when we were becoming best buds too.. this is about the most unsubstanciated info i have seen in some time.. And having trouble counting how many times we have gotten off topic in this thread too LOL !
i DO Agree with you 100% thought that almost all oils labled "synthetic" are actually BLENDS. not true synth oils. http://www.calsci.co...info/Oils1.html This may be what your lookin for.
no please don't say "melk-mans bikes do this so it must be true".. but im just giving you my "real world" racing experience. 850+ hours on my 04crf450 on the ORIGINAL cylinder, replaced just because i have enough money to do that kind of thing and figured it was time.. Cylinder was still in spec, cross hatching still there too. I sold it to a guy for $75 and that cylinder is STLL in use today. Nothin but Rotella synth (but it's really a blend). I have a thread in the crf450 forum with photos of that cyl. My 2008R6 superbike (2mm overbore) has a 2006r6 motor in it built in 2007 as 2mm over. Rebuilt every season since, nothin but Silkolene Pro4 SYNTH. This machine sits for weeks between roadraces. I sold the crank for $175 in perfect condition. Cylinders are the original overbore perfectly in spec and we just put new CP pistons and fresh plane bearings in it with a new crank. The crank was sold to a fellow R6 racer and still working fine! Never even honed my cylinders, just scotchbrite when apart (same with my crf450 motors).

Edited by MELK-MAN, 23 February 2012 - 07:17 PM.

rpxtreme03, on 23 February 2012 - 10:31 AM, said:

god just killed a kitten

MrBlahh, on 23 February 2012 - 06:35 PM, said:

yea man! (i think? havn't heard that expression beforeLOL).  Not sure where our young friend is pullin this info from, but it is GUARANTEEING this thread goes 5 more pages minimum now.

Edited by MELK-MAN, 23 February 2012 - 07:19 PM.

Oops. I was only kidding around. Now how do I close that can back up? The worms are getting everywhere.

carlt828, on 23 February 2012 - 07:47 PM, said:

way to late brother.. the Genie is out of the bottle, the can o' worms is open, the shit has hit the fan, what has been said can not be un-said, etc ..LOL

I'm exhausted.

rpxtreme03, on 23 February 2012 - 10:31 AM, said:

Completely and utterly false statement.  Esters have a positive attraction to metal surfaces. The so called non synthetic Synthetic oils are actually ultra refined petroleum oils.  Group III base oils for instance.  PAOs are molecularly altered petroleum based lubes.  Also called Group IV.   Esters are man made from combining Fats and acids. Called Group V base oils. I have never ever hear of a modern Synthetic oil solidifying.  Some synthetics that are no longer used (since the early 70s) used to solidify if mixed with petroleum. Esters are more expensive but protect the engine better when stressed.

carlt828, on 23 February 2012 - 04:40 PM, said:

i know you werent. i was just sayin' lol. what BBS?

I have a 10 oz FWW coming in for my '03 CR250R. Should be in today and I'm looking forward to seeing how it helps in the tight singletrack & small hill climbs I like to ride. I don't know if I'll put it on for the weekend as I've been trying a different carb and don't have it sorted out yet. I don't want to make too many changes that I can't track what does what.

Dwight_Rudder, on 08 February 2012 - 10:58 PM, said:

i just bought a 2001 Cr 250r and would like to know what weight would be ideal for woods single track riding and some open desert riding. Also what sprocket combo would be best. The bike was set up for desert racing.

Edited by ratolmac, 24 February 2012 - 09:30 AM.

MELK-MAN, on 23 February 2012 - 06:18 PM, said:

the synthetics are not a bad thing by any means just know what your running. dont be sucked into the magical land of synthetic heaven.
synthetic has its obvious advantages like friction reduction and a longer life. i dont use synthetic oil in my bike but i do in my truck.
reason being is my race bike sits for a week or two at a time between races and i dont want to chance having a dry start every race. also i
like to change my oil every two hours to make sure all is well indide. this is not enough hours for petrolium based oils to break down so there is no need to pay extra for something that extends your oil life when your not even stretching out to your current oil life.

if you do use synthetic just make sure you put petroleum oil in it for seasonal storage.

Dwight_Rudder, on 23 February 2012 - 11:51 PM, said:

Lets not go any further into this discussion. if any of you really care to know more on what we are talking about i will PM you some articles.
dwight your a highly respected figure in this forum so im not trying to prove your wrong and i mean no disrespect, but just because esters have a positive attraction to metals doesnt mean they dont run to the bottom of your motor. google it some time.and they only solidify for the split second they are under high pressure. pressures you wouldnt see in 99% of motors. when they go from solid to liquid so rapidly it weakens the bonds and causes them to break down and form sludge deposits. we would never see something like this in these little motors though. so really that is not a worry.
im not saying not to run synthetics because they are a great thing. just know what applications to use them in. to some they are well worth the $ others there a bad investment.
i personnaly like it in my truck, but not in my bike.

this marks the end of that discussion. i should have never replied to that first one haha

Edited by rpxtreme03, 25 February 2012 - 04:22 AM.