bought my first truck

Started by 250f canuck, Jan 22 2012 01:23 PM
18 replies to this topic

  • 250f canuck

Posted 22 January 2012 - 01:23 PM

#1


1996 F-250 powerstroke, 5 speed 4x4. I've never owned a diesel before, actually I don't think anyone in my family ever has. My Mom thinks it sounds like a school bus, but I think it sounds awesome. All the important stuff works fine, though I need to figure out why a couple speakers don't work and do some minor body touch ups.

Let me know what you think.

It's got 300 thousand kilometres on it, so that's about........186 thousand miles. Anything I should keep an eye on?

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  • mxredneck

Posted 22 January 2012 - 03:41 PM

#2

Nice truck! I don't want to scare you, but I have a 96 350 and just paid $1500 to have my head pulled after a glow plug snapped off in the cylinder. Other than that routine maintenance should be fine. Injectors may be in order with that mileage. Keep the oil changed, fuel and filter fresh. Carry a spare 30amp fuse (for the #22 position under the hood. Fuel bowl heater shorts out over time and vibration and blows that fuse which the PCM runs through also) and Cam shaft position sensor as both can leave you stranded, but if you have extra can be changed on the road. I also recommend a new air filter setup. You can make a good setup yourself for about $50 with a P# 6637 filter from NAPA and some 4" pipe. Stock is very restrictive. Also gutting the cat and removing the muffler will help free it up and gain some efficiency if you can stay out of it. I would check out www.powerstrokenation.com and just start reading. Thats what i did and I know 100x's more about my truck and know about every possible problem that may come up and if its something I can do myself.

  • 250f canuck

Posted 22 January 2012 - 05:12 PM

#3

Thanks for the heads up about the cam sensor and fuses. I'm assuming that once the fuel bowl heater shorts it needs to be replaced. I'm not too worried about the glow plugs though, they were just checked and the relay has been replaced. I'll be looking to upgrade the intake and exhaust at some point, but I won't go as far as hollowing out the cat. Ontario has a semi-annual emissions test, but I hope that gets done away with soon.

  • mxredneck

Posted 23 January 2012 - 07:27 AM

#4

When mine shorted out, I just removed it. You'll need a 7/8" crows foot wrench and its reverse thread. It just unplugs and pulls out. If you run fuel additives and #1 diesel you really don't need it. If you are worried though you can modify your fuel bowl to accept the updated super duty style heater.

  • Chickenhauler

Posted 23 January 2012 - 05:28 PM

#5

Here's where I'd start-pressure wash the engine and then see if you got leaks...much easier to keep an eye on a clean engine than a filthy one.

See if you can scrounge up the factory air snorkel that goes from the airbox up to the core support. That way, you'll be getting fresh cool air instead of hot engine compartment air-and it'll be a bit quieter.

As for the racket, you're mom's right....Navistar used that same motor in their school bus chassis. :bonk:

Being it's an F250 and that many miles, take a look at the spring shackles on the front axle-by this many miles, with a heavy motor like the PSD, they rubbers are usually gone. Not hard to change, and not expensive, but man do they make a difference in how it drives and handles.

Same goes for the rest of the front end, ball joints are a common failure on these trucks (the stockers, that is). If they're greaseable, they've been replaced once-OEM had no zerks.

Check the hoses over really good, looks like they still have the original Ford spring-tension clamps on them...not that this is bad, but this generally points to original hoses, and with that many miles....well, walking sucks.

Looks really clean for the age and odometer reading!

  • mxredneck

Posted 24 January 2012 - 01:30 PM

#6

I replaced my ball joints last weekend and if you have the press and the socket for the 4wd nut it is an easy job. My truck rides unbelievably smoother!

  • Chickenhauler

Posted 24 January 2012 - 01:34 PM

#7

View Postmxredneck, on 24 January 2012 - 01:30 PM, said:

I replaced my ball joints last weekend and if you have the press and the socket for the 4wd nut it is an easy job. My truck rides unbelievably smoother!

And the slide hammer and thread on attachment to pull the spindles on the 4x4 variation.

  • 250f canuck

Posted 24 January 2012 - 11:06 PM

#8

I had a better look at the front end today at work. All 4 ball joints have zerk fittings, as well as a bunch of the joints in the steering system. Not sure if any of those joints came with fittings from Ford, but they got em now. So those will all get a shot of grease in the near future, any recommendations on what sort of grease to use?

I had a look at the shackles on the front of the springs, and those rubber bushings are definitely on my list. I'm picking up a manual from napa tomorrow, so I'll be able to see about those parts when I'm there.

  • mxredneck

Posted 25 January 2012 - 11:45 AM

#9

The steering parts came with grease fitting from the factory. I would use any type of moly grease

  • DMC707

Posted 25 January 2012 - 01:04 PM

#10

At least it has an 8 ball shift knob !!

  • sniper_101

Posted 25 January 2012 - 02:19 PM

#11

Nice rig, I've got basically the same thing, but in the SuperDuty body style. Powerstrokenation.com, powerstroke.org and powerstrokearmy.com are all great powerstroke sites. First things first, change/flush/replace all the fluids/filters for peace of mind, unless you know exactly when they were changed last. 5-40 synthetic makes these engines start great in the winter (with decent batteries, glow plugs and GPR), I switch back to 15-40 conventional in the spring (Shell Rotella). May want to look into some fuel additives to help prolong life of the fuel system.

Also may want to wash that engine down real good with some heavy degreaser, especially in the valley. When these things start to leak, there is multiple places the oil can/will leak from and having a clean engine will make a leak a lot easier and faster to identify and fix.

First things you'll probably end up doing is a simple intake, exhaust and chip. Usually after these upgrades you'll notice things that will need replaced or that are on their way out (HPOP, injectors, fuel system, clutch, etc.). Either way, they're a lot of fun and easy to work on, but get expensive quickly to make them fast.

  • J_WR2fitty

Posted 25 January 2012 - 02:26 PM

#12

Nice! Yea diesels will run forever. Just like everyone else said, routine maintenance is key to any engine. Also may want to look into trans fluid, its condition etc. Manuals tend to be more durable then autos in a lot of cases, under normal conditions. Usually if somethin goes, its a clutch. Good fluid will extend the life of that.

Far as the speakers, I would start by pulling off the grills and taking the speakers out. First and foremost if its both the rears, or both the fronts or both the right or left...make sure the radio simply isnt panned one way (left/right) or faded one way (front to rear), be surprised that people do make that mistake. If thats all good, pull off the grills and take the speakers out, and pull radio out.Make sure the wires are connected obviously on both and connections look good. If that all looks good and the speakers still got no sound, do this...verify which wires at the back of the radio go to which speaker so u know u have the + n - to that speaker. IF you have a multi-meter/fluke meter set it to the lil "beep" function circuit tester. Touch the prongs to the speaker wires near the radio and if it beeps you have a full circuit through speaker and back. If it DOESNT and you are sure you have the right wires, wire is probably damaged somewhere in between, even a blown speaker coil will still normally complete enough of a circuit to beep by doing this. If you are sure u got the right wires and you got no beep from circuit tester, then most likely the output channels on the radio are blown. Need new one.

IF you do not have a circuit tester, you can strip the ends of the wire by the radio a lil bit, and wrap one to the + and one touch one to the - of a lil 9v battery. If there is a complete circuit u will normally hear a little click from the speaker, and better yet if you can see the speaker the cone will either move out or in a little bit depending on polarity you have it hooked up as (not important). If you have factory radio and pig tail connectors and you dont wanna rip the wires out or cut them, just slice the insulation enough to slide the insulation back 1/8" of an inch and "T" in a scrap piece of wire (like 14-18gauge'ish) to hook to the 9v battery, thus not needing to actually cut the radio wiring. And with the above, if you have pig tails, just un hook them, locates the pin or holes for the wires to that speaker and just stick the prongs against it (or in it). If you knew all this I apologize for the long read, just spent way to many years putting money into car audio, LOL. If you don't and you'd like more info...pm me.

  • 250f canuck

Posted 25 January 2012 - 11:24 PM

#13

View PostJ_WR2fitty, on 25 January 2012 - 02:26 PM, said:

Nice! Yea diesels will run forever. Just like everyone else said, routine maintenance is key to any engine. Also may want to look into trans fluid, its condition etc. Manuals tend to be more durable then autos in a lot of cases, under normal conditions. Usually if somethin goes, its a clutch. Good fluid will extend the life of that.

Far as the speakers, I would start by pulling off the grills and taking the speakers out. First and foremost if its both the rears, or both the fronts or both the right or left...make sure the radio simply isnt panned one way (left/right) or faded one way (front to rear), be surprised that people do make that mistake. If thats all good, pull off the grills and take the speakers out, and pull radio out.Make sure the wires are connected obviously on both and connections look good. If that all looks good and the speakers still got no sound, do this...verify which wires at the back of the radio go to which speaker so u know u have the + n - to that speaker. IF you have a multi-meter/fluke meter set it to the lil "beep" function circuit tester. Touch the prongs to the speaker wires near the radio and if it beeps you have a full circuit through speaker and back. If it DOESNT and you are sure you have the right wires, wire is probably damaged somewhere in between, even a blown speaker coil will still normally complete enough of a circuit to beep by doing this. If you are sure u got the right wires and you got no beep from circuit tester, then most likely the output channels on the radio are blown. Need new one.

IF you do not have a circuit tester, you can strip the ends of the wire by the radio a lil bit, and wrap one to the + and one touch one to the - of a lil 9v battery. If there is a complete circuit u will normally hear a little click from the speaker, and better yet if you can see the speaker the cone will either move out or in a little bit depending on polarity you have it hooked up as (not important). If you have factory radio and pig tail connectors and you dont wanna rip the wires out or cut them, just slice the insulation enough to slide the insulation back 1/8" of an inch and "T" in a scrap piece of wire (like 14-18gauge'ish) to hook to the 9v battery, thus not needing to actually cut the radio wiring. And with the above, if you have pig tails, just un hook them, locates the pin or holes for the wires to that speaker and just stick the prongs against it (or in it). If you knew all this I apologize for the long read, just spent way to many years putting money into car audio, LOL. If you don't and you'd like more info...pm me.

Thanks for the heads up on checking the pan/fade settings on the radio, I probably never would have thought to do that before ripping into the doors. As of right now I think I'm only getting sound out of the drivers door speaker, but there could be some coming out the one behind me. It's got an aftermarket Clarion deck in it (which I am not a fan of, no aux jack), and some extra wiring for subs is set up in the back, so obviously somebody has been messing around in there at some point. If the radio settings don't fix it, then I'll have to re-read your post and try to retain a bit more information lol. I'm good with mechanical stuff, but audio equipment is unfamiliar territory for me.

  • J_WR2fitty

Posted 26 January 2012 - 04:14 PM

#14

Well if you need to go into the rest of what I said, just lemme know via pm or somethin and I will send it to ya in a more organized manner, lol.

  • Chickenhauler

Posted 27 January 2012 - 12:18 AM

#15

View Post250f canuck, on 24 January 2012 - 11:06 PM, said:

I had a look at the shackles on the front of the springs, and those rubber bushings are definitely on my list. I'm picking up a manual from napa tomorrow, so I'll be able to see about those parts when I'm there.

Don't waste your time with just buying the rubber bushings and pressing them into the shackles, just get the entire shackle.

Not much more money, and a heck of a lot less headache.

View Postsniper_101, on 25 January 2012 - 02:19 PM, said:

5-40 synthetic makes these engines start great in the winter (with decent batteries, glow plugs and GPR), I switch back to 15-40 conventional in the spring (Shell Rotella). May want to look into some fuel additives to help prolong life of the fuel system.


IDK if Rotella has changed their formula, but we used to see alot of problems with rough idle and choppy starts when customers ran Rotella T (white bottle) in the PSD's.

What it came down to was, the anti-foaming package wasn't up to the task of keeping the oil from aerating, and those bubbles would affect the oil driven injectors.

I love my Rotella, but not in a PSD.

  • 250f canuck

Posted 30 January 2012 - 05:59 PM

#16

I've been looking around for the front shackles at all the local parts store, and none can get them in, so I went to the local ford dealer and had a chat with the parts guy. Just the bushings are $20 each, but if I add a set of shackles to that order the price goes over $500. Just for the parts, no installation or anything. Ridiculous. I'm going to take my chances with just the bushings and see what happens.

  • Chickenhauler

Posted 30 January 2012 - 10:52 PM

#17

View Post250f canuck, on 30 January 2012 - 05:59 PM, said:

I've been looking around for the front shackles at all the local parts store, and none can get them in, so I went to the local ford dealer and had a chat with the parts guy. Just the bushings are $20 each, but if I add a set of shackles to that order the price goes over $500. Just for the parts, no installation or anything. Ridiculous. I'm going to take my chances with just the bushings and see what happens.

That parts guy is on crack.

http://www.sdtrucksp...roducts_id=7635 $20

  • 250f canuck

Posted 30 January 2012 - 11:34 PM

#18

View PostChickenhauler, on 30 January 2012 - 10:52 PM, said:

That parts guy is on crack.

http://www.sdtrucksp...roducts_id=7635 $20

Wow, no kidding! Thanks for the link :lol: :bonk:

  • Chickenhauler

Posted 31 January 2012 - 12:35 AM

#19

View Post250f canuck, on 30 January 2012 - 11:34 PM, said:

Wow, no kidding! Thanks for the link :lol: :bonk:

Just be sure to measure yours and compare against their specs, Ford is notorious for using 3 different parts in the same model year on the same truck.



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