The two carb designs are very, very similar, though. It stands to reason in my mind that blocking a significant fuel/air controlling circuit would naturally require tuning, not just install-and-everything's-fixed.
XR650R Air Jet Cut off Valve, best way to plug it?
Started by pb1963, Jan 20 2012 06:07 AM
55 replies to this topic
Posted 30 January 2012 - 12:04 PM
HeadTrauma said::
The two carb designs are very, very similar, though. It stands to reason in my mind that blocking a significant fuel/air controlling circuit would naturally require tuning, not just install-and-everything's-fixed.
I say:
You are no doubt correct,,I haven't the time or inclination to be playing around with jetting if my bike is running pretty well at present. Sick to death of playing around with carbs and engines for that matter,.I also don't understand why my slight sticking throttle problem got noticeably worse with the blocking of the ACV. To me that rules it out as that's what I'm trying to eliminate.
Here is AirCut 101 which deals with the WR450,,Borrowed from Thumper WR450 section,. The single carb XR600 AND XR650R should be no different,,Carbs are virtually the same between those two bikes..
Air cut Valve training 101-
The Air Cut Valve (ACV) lets extra air flow to the pilot jet during most running conditions, but not under deceleration.
The carb has 2 air passages to the pilot jet and one (the ACV passage) closes of during deceleration. This richens the pilot circuit on deceleration to reduce popping. The Air Cut Valve "Cuts" the air passage off by using vacuum to pull opposite the spring and diaphram.
Pull off the cover.
--The center hole with white plastic valve leads directly to the pilot jet air circuit, along with the pilot air jet. The diaphram spring and pin normally hold the valve open.
--The hole on the left leads straight into the intake manifold for vacuum. This pulls the diaphram pin away from the center hole on deceleration, closing it.
--The hole on the right leads to the airbox side of the slide. It allows atmospheric pressure air to flow through the passage in the center when the vacuum is lower, and leans the pilot circuit. The WR's have a bigger pilot jet(42-45) than the YZ's(40-42) to compensate for the added air.
The ACV simply cuts the air to the pilot jet in half when using engine braking.
If you disable the ACV with the center hole closed, the pilot circuit will run richer both at idle and on deceleration. If the centre hole remains open, the pilot circuit will be leaner under the same conditions.
Plainly you need to readjust the size of the Pilot for the rich condition and maybe the Airscrew as well..,,While the above deals with the WR450 the Aircut system would be virtually the same.,, Simply transfer component part ids'/locations to what you see in the 600/650r ACV when you remove it should you want to mess around trying the mod on them,,.
The two carb designs are very, very similar, though. It stands to reason in my mind that blocking a significant fuel/air controlling circuit would naturally require tuning, not just install-and-everything's-fixed.
I say:
You are no doubt correct,,I haven't the time or inclination to be playing around with jetting if my bike is running pretty well at present. Sick to death of playing around with carbs and engines for that matter,.I also don't understand why my slight sticking throttle problem got noticeably worse with the blocking of the ACV. To me that rules it out as that's what I'm trying to eliminate.
Here is AirCut 101 which deals with the WR450,,Borrowed from Thumper WR450 section,. The single carb XR600 AND XR650R should be no different,,Carbs are virtually the same between those two bikes..
Air cut Valve training 101-
The Air Cut Valve (ACV) lets extra air flow to the pilot jet during most running conditions, but not under deceleration.
The carb has 2 air passages to the pilot jet and one (the ACV passage) closes of during deceleration. This richens the pilot circuit on deceleration to reduce popping. The Air Cut Valve "Cuts" the air passage off by using vacuum to pull opposite the spring and diaphram.
Pull off the cover.
--The center hole with white plastic valve leads directly to the pilot jet air circuit, along with the pilot air jet. The diaphram spring and pin normally hold the valve open.
--The hole on the left leads straight into the intake manifold for vacuum. This pulls the diaphram pin away from the center hole on deceleration, closing it.
--The hole on the right leads to the airbox side of the slide. It allows atmospheric pressure air to flow through the passage in the center when the vacuum is lower, and leans the pilot circuit. The WR's have a bigger pilot jet(42-45) than the YZ's(40-42) to compensate for the added air.
The ACV simply cuts the air to the pilot jet in half when using engine braking.
If you disable the ACV with the center hole closed, the pilot circuit will run richer both at idle and on deceleration. If the centre hole remains open, the pilot circuit will be leaner under the same conditions.
Plainly you need to readjust the size of the Pilot for the rich condition and maybe the Airscrew as well..,,While the above deals with the WR450 the Aircut system would be virtually the same.,, Simply transfer component part ids'/locations to what you see in the 600/650r ACV when you remove it should you want to mess around trying the mod on them,,.
Posted 01 February 2012 - 11:59 AM
<p>After extensive study of various manuals and parts fiches on this hanging idle problem I think I may be onto something regarding the positioning of a plastic washer that fits between the throttlecable/slide actuating arm and the body of the carb,, Just about every picture I look at in manuals or on fiches has it positioned on one side of the arm. One XR400 Service Manual I have seems to have it positioned on the other side of the actuating arm,,I will be swapping mine over to the side indicated in the 400 manual later on and will report back on the matter. While the 400 isn't a 600 nor 650R the parts locations and orientation in the carbs should be the same in all those models,,Also noticed something about the Aircut internal parts that I hadn't seen before., The tiny rubber washer that goes in the orifice needs to be facing one way,,flat side to the body of the carb,,Both of these things will be checked later and a report made of any improvement or lack of it,,If this plastic washer thing fixes my hanging idle it's a major blunder on the part of manual producers and fiche people,,I am sick to death of this hanging idle problem,,lets hope it fixes it,,My carb was imported from the States so I didn't know if whoever sold it to me had had it apart before or not and thus going by the various pictures they would have done as I did and put the washer on the throttlecable/slide actuating arm side indicated in some manuals which may or may not be the incorrect/correct side,,
Posted 01 February 2012 - 04:40 PM
http://imageshack.us.../img0209ly.jpg/
Right I can confirm that shifting the plastic washer to the correct place has 90% cured the hanging idle though not quite,, I need some help here from someone that has a single carb from either a 650R or 600R or XR400 that is easily accessible and who knows is set up correctly in the throat area., I need to know whether when looking down the throat of the carb as in the picture above the hole or half hole if you like that you can see on the right is half exposed like that or is it fully covered by the needle retainer/slide raising arm,, I can find no pictures from any manual or from any other source that can confirm whether that hole is half exposed or fully covered by the slide lift arm,, If I reverse the needle retainer/slide lift arm I can fully cover it,,I need to know for sure which is the correct orientation for that lift arm,,Manuals are no good,,please don't post anything from them unless it's a clear view of that hole with the retainer in place,,No half arsed pictures or advice are acceptable,,This is the or could be the end of this hanging idle issue once and for all,,Thanks for reading,,Once this is discovered I will be posting pictures and a proper guide to where the plastic washer goes and how the carb is set up properly in the throat area,,Picture above is looking towards the rear of the carb from the front,,My ACV rubber washer was incidentely the correct way around for anyone that's interested,,Got that bit right at least.,
Right I can confirm that shifting the plastic washer to the correct place has 90% cured the hanging idle though not quite,, I need some help here from someone that has a single carb from either a 650R or 600R or XR400 that is easily accessible and who knows is set up correctly in the throat area., I need to know whether when looking down the throat of the carb as in the picture above the hole or half hole if you like that you can see on the right is half exposed like that or is it fully covered by the needle retainer/slide raising arm,, I can find no pictures from any manual or from any other source that can confirm whether that hole is half exposed or fully covered by the slide lift arm,, If I reverse the needle retainer/slide lift arm I can fully cover it,,I need to know for sure which is the correct orientation for that lift arm,,Manuals are no good,,please don't post anything from them unless it's a clear view of that hole with the retainer in place,,No half arsed pictures or advice are acceptable,,This is the or could be the end of this hanging idle issue once and for all,,Thanks for reading,,Once this is discovered I will be posting pictures and a proper guide to where the plastic washer goes and how the carb is set up properly in the throat area,,Picture above is looking towards the rear of the carb from the front,,My ACV rubber washer was incidentely the correct way around for anyone that's interested,,Got that bit right at least.,
Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:37 AM
ME TOO THE RESCUE!
hole HALF EXPOSED!
I had this same quandary and if you look at the manual fiche very CLOSELY you can see the orientation of the slide arm and spring holder...
look at a fiche and if you grab your carb, slide and parts that hold the slide you will see when put together in this orientation the hole will be partially blocked...
I went with this even though it seemd wierd it could go either way but I HAVE no hanging idle issues.
also to mention that my carb had the same plastic washer scenario...it goes between the body and arm where it enters the carb...Im assuming to make a good seal and vaccum.
Also my slide top gasket leaked so I replaced it with new one...and rethreadd the damn stripped out philps on the lid...
I went 1 size bigger on those screws!
hope this helps man!
Ill feel like a champ if I can help you out!
OOOOOH THE KNOWLEDGE! jajajaja
cheers
Christian
P.S. You are correct too on the flat part of the o-ring going towards the carb on the acv valve port. Its says this in the manual.
Hope I didnt break any of your rules on the last post, so no pics, or manuals, just my experience.
hole HALF EXPOSED!
I had this same quandary and if you look at the manual fiche very CLOSELY you can see the orientation of the slide arm and spring holder...
look at a fiche and if you grab your carb, slide and parts that hold the slide you will see when put together in this orientation the hole will be partially blocked...
I went with this even though it seemd wierd it could go either way but I HAVE no hanging idle issues.
also to mention that my carb had the same plastic washer scenario...it goes between the body and arm where it enters the carb...Im assuming to make a good seal and vaccum.
Also my slide top gasket leaked so I replaced it with new one...and rethreadd the damn stripped out philps on the lid...
I went 1 size bigger on those screws!
hope this helps man!
Ill feel like a champ if I can help you out!
OOOOOH THE KNOWLEDGE! jajajaja
cheers
Christian
P.S. You are correct too on the flat part of the o-ring going towards the carb on the acv valve port. Its says this in the manual.
Hope I didnt break any of your rules on the last post, so no pics, or manuals, just my experience.
Posted 02 February 2012 - 01:25 PM
Yep,,Thanks for the information Christian,. Looks to me after a lot of reading on the problem is that it's an issue with the wear on the carbs slide and that this "hole" that's there is a recommended attempt at fixing the sticking throttle.,,ie People drill a 2mm hole 22mm from the front of the intake side of the slide to try and alleviate it,, I'd be interested to know if a stock carbs slide actually came with the hole or someone has drilled it on both mine and yours,,Not really totally sure someones drilled the hole or not as yet,,I'd also like to know if a 650R carb has the hole drilled in them or not as well,, Yeah, you're correct about the plastic washer,,shame some of the manuals can't seem to get its position correct,,My one certainly didn't and it wasn't till looking at the XR400 PDF Service manual I had that I noted the wrong information., I'm going to try a final thing on the slide which is to round off a couple of its bottom edges a little with a file to rule them out as the slight stick it has now and call it a day on the problem,,It's certainly a hell of a lot better now with that washer in the correct place,,Felt like I was wrestling with a bore with the throttle twist grip previously and the idle would go from nothing to hell high as well as failing to return without a quick blip of the throttle,,Pain in the arse trying to ride it like that,,Thanks again for your effort on the info..,,And Yes those screw threads are as weak as,,already had to replace two on my bowl with a small bolt and nut setup as the allen key ones I bought to replace the Philips head just tore the threads out for some reason,,Yes, they were the correct thread,,just weak metal in those carb screw threads.,Came out like a darn spring,,
Posted 02 February 2012 - 06:18 PM
Horri, on 02 February 2012 - 01:25 PM, said:
ie People drill a 2mm hole 22mm from the front of the intake side of the slide to try and alleviate it,,
This above is know as the worn carb slide mod, and thats not what I was referencing to...The top of the slide, looking down, just like a cv carb(where you drill this hole out bigger) is stock...you have the hole where the needle goes through and is secured and off to the side the hole I thought you were talking about...the way the pulley arm is placed on top leaves the hole semi exposed. Stock.
The slide drill where you drill a hole with the specs you say is for the worn carb body/slide problem that causes a hanging idle too..
try rounding the bottom like you say or drilling the hole...I polished my carb body up a bit just for fun...
cheers
Posted 02 February 2012 - 08:42 PM
Hmm..,This is getting confusing,. So what your saying is the hole I can see (well the half of it anyway) is stock standard on an XR600 slide, If so I can see I'm going to have some fun looking into the positioning of this other hole people drill to supposedly cure a worn slide or hanging idle problem,,Tried the filing thing,,No real change from before.,I may leave things for a bit to bed in with wear and try and figure out where this other holes supposed to be drilled..2mm round is kinda straightforward but the 22mm from the front of the slide is slightly vague,.what's that from the exact centre??,,Where's the pictures of all these supposed mods.,,talking to myself there,..That hole boring thing Is some sort of Aussie cure to the problem from what I've read,,More investigations needed,,
Already done all the polishing/240 grit sanding I'm doing of slides and carb bodies,,makes no real difference.,Things are acceptable as they are just not perfect and I like throttle operation and idling to be perfect,,And no,,,I'm not spending hundreds of dollars on an aftermarket carb to achieve it,,May look into an old 38-40mm Mikuni Flatslide if one pops up cheap sometime,,
The Germans have the info,,
http://www.enduro-st...e/xr/xrtune.htm
Pretty straightforward,,Drill the hole 23mm down through the front of the slide,,Modify the spring system..Finished..Might give it a shot tomorrow.,
Already done all the polishing/240 grit sanding I'm doing of slides and carb bodies,,makes no real difference.,Things are acceptable as they are just not perfect and I like throttle operation and idling to be perfect,,And no,,,I'm not spending hundreds of dollars on an aftermarket carb to achieve it,,May look into an old 38-40mm Mikuni Flatslide if one pops up cheap sometime,,
The Germans have the info,,
http://www.enduro-st...e/xr/xrtune.htm
Pretty straightforward,,Drill the hole 23mm down through the front of the slide,,Modify the spring system..Finished..Might give it a shot tomorrow.,
Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:36 PM
I can quite categorically confirm that the hole drilling idea from the Aussies or the Germans whoever you want to blame is rubbish,,Tested with the hole (shocking results).,I've plugged the hole with a copper nail.,The other easing the slack idea on the throttle return spring by notching the cable arm and moving the other end of the spring up so it rests on the body of the top of the carb is also a shocker,,Tested,,results terrible..Reverted to normal by the use of a small brass nut and bolt,,Bikes now as it was before,End of this game,,I will live with what I have till I can pick up a cheap 38mm Flatslide Mikuni..Thanks for watching.,
Posted 03 February 2012 - 07:44 PM
2000 xr 650 r completely uncorked and plated. Set up supermoto. Stock carb,175 main, 68s pilot, b53e needle 3rd notch from top, live at sea level. I had the same problem. High idle when warmed up. Most noticeable when shifting gears ( when clutch pulled in between shifts ) or coming to a stop. Could blip the throttle and it would return to a good idle. After trying many different things I removed acv diaphram and spring and left them out, made a small rubber plug ( out of inner tube patch material ) to cover the small vacuum hole and made a gasket ( out of gasket material) to go under acv cover ( used a little gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket ). Started it up and rode it for a few miles and the high idle was gone. I went for a 130 mile last weekend with some crazy/fast friends in the twistys and never had a problem. Elevation went from 0' to almost 2000'. SF bay area temp went from 50 to 70 degrees that day. Hope this helps. Will watch for your results.
Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:22 PM
Gordon Bennett,,will these ideas ever stop. Thank you for the information.,I will probably not be able to resist testing your idea in the exact manner you've set out using the exact same materials,,,This will be the last attempt!!!,,Thanks anyway,,Tell you what I have observed is that spring tension on the throttle cable holders of the carb is absolutely critical to the hard twisting throttle/suction problem and hanging idle issue,,very critical that springs setup and tension,,,Away out to a 21st,,report back tomorrow on the result,,
Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:10 PM
OK, It is confirmed this works as described above by xr650r148w.
My addition to the description above of doing the mod is this.
Cut a piece of bicycle repair patch roughly the size of the
hole where the small rubber washer fits in the internal part of the ACV.
It does not need to fit in the hole. All it needs to do is cover it.
Get your ACV cover and lay it out on a bit of gasket paper.
Mark it out including allowing for the screw holes.
Cut it out with some scissors or a sharp blade,.
Burn the holes for the screws out or punch them with a small leather
workers tool. Whatever is in the inside of the ACV is removed,Spring,
Small rubber washer and the ACV flange thing.,Put your bit of rubber
you've made from the bicycle repair patch over the hole where the small
rubber washer came from., Put your paper gasket over that and put the screws
in and tighten her down,. You will have to change the Pilot jet.
I had a 68 in there and went down to a 58 and I think it may need
to go down some more., The Fuel screw on the bottom I have currently
at one turn out,,Take it for a test ride and feel the smooth throttle
and no hanging idle. Next park the girl up break out beer and celebrate victory.
Huge thankyou to xr650r148w ,Welcome aboard Sir.,
Plainly works for both the 650r and the single carb 600s.
My addition to the description above of doing the mod is this.
Cut a piece of bicycle repair patch roughly the size of the
hole where the small rubber washer fits in the internal part of the ACV.
It does not need to fit in the hole. All it needs to do is cover it.
Get your ACV cover and lay it out on a bit of gasket paper.
Mark it out including allowing for the screw holes.
Cut it out with some scissors or a sharp blade,.
Burn the holes for the screws out or punch them with a small leather
workers tool. Whatever is in the inside of the ACV is removed,Spring,
Small rubber washer and the ACV flange thing.,Put your bit of rubber
you've made from the bicycle repair patch over the hole where the small
rubber washer came from., Put your paper gasket over that and put the screws
in and tighten her down,. You will have to change the Pilot jet.
I had a 68 in there and went down to a 58 and I think it may need
to go down some more., The Fuel screw on the bottom I have currently
at one turn out,,Take it for a test ride and feel the smooth throttle
and no hanging idle. Next park the girl up break out beer and celebrate victory.
Huge thankyou to xr650r148w ,Welcome aboard Sir.,
Plainly works for both the 650r and the single carb 600s.
Posted 05 February 2012 - 12:10 PM
I,m sooo happy to hear this worked for you too. I woke up many nights trying to figure it out. They definitly are a pain to ride with the high idle. I had that celabration beer when my high idle disappeared, now I,m going to have one for you too. Happy riding!
Posted 05 February 2012 - 12:55 PM
Yep,,Shes a joy to behold now it's cured., I've spent hours and hours on
the issue. If only you'd popped up earlier or we could have found some
decent instruction on the net on how to do the mod I would have saved myself heaps
of time and stress. Just need to figure out the Pilot now,,I have a spare 55
so I will try that today sometime. I can screw the fuelscrew all the way in and
the bike doesn't stop,,idle just increases. Any more than about a full 360 on it out from dead stop
and she gets a bit blubbery.,, bikes running an XL600 Piston and bore.,
Anyway thanks again for the information,, Anyone else doing this,,You can cut
the rubber plug to fit into the hole if you like. I just found it a hassle trying
to cut a circle that small so compromised on it's size and just overlapped it.,
the issue. If only you'd popped up earlier or we could have found some
decent instruction on the net on how to do the mod I would have saved myself heaps
of time and stress. Just need to figure out the Pilot now,,I have a spare 55
so I will try that today sometime. I can screw the fuelscrew all the way in and
the bike doesn't stop,,idle just increases. Any more than about a full 360 on it out from dead stop
and she gets a bit blubbery.,, bikes running an XL600 Piston and bore.,
Anyway thanks again for the information,, Anyone else doing this,,You can cut
the rubber plug to fit into the hole if you like. I just found it a hassle trying
to cut a circle that small so compromised on it's size and just overlapped it.,
Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:23 PM
xr650r148w, on 03 February 2012 - 07:44 PM, said:
2000 xr 650 r completely uncorked and plated. Set up supermoto. Stock carb,175 main, 68s pilot, b53e needle 3rd notch from top, live at sea level. I had the same problem. High idle when warmed up. Most noticeable when shifting gears ( when clutch pulled in between shifts ) or coming to a stop. Could blip the throttle and it would return to a good idle. After trying many different things I removed acv diaphram and spring and left them out, made a small rubber plug ( out of inner tube patch material ) to cover the small vacuum hole and made a gasket ( out of gasket material) to go under acv cover ( used a little gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket ). Started it up and rode it for a few miles and the high idle was gone. I went for a 130 mile last weekend with some crazy/fast friends in the twistys and never had a problem. Elevation went from 0' to almost 2000'. SF bay area temp went from 50 to 70 degrees that day. Hope this helps. Will watch for your results.
How many turns on your pilot screw do you have now after the mod? I think I'm a little rich, out 2.5 turns. Besides that, I'm jetted the exact same way as you.
Posted 07 February 2012 - 07:07 PM
pb1963, on 06 February 2012 - 07:23 PM, said:
How many turns on your pilot screw do you have now after the mod? I think I'm a little rich, out 2.5 turns. Besides that, I'm jetted the exact same way as you.
Posted 07 February 2012 - 07:16 PM
Horri, on 05 February 2012 - 12:55 PM, said:
Yep,,Shes a joy to behold now it's cured., I've spent hours and hours on
the issue. If only you'd popped up earlier or we could have found some
decent instruction on the net on how to do the mod I would have saved myself heaps
of time and stress. Just need to figure out the Pilot now,,I have a spare 55
so I will try that today sometime. I can screw the fuelscrew all the way in and
the bike doesn't stop,,idle just increases. Any more than about a full 360 on it out from dead stop
and she gets a bit blubbery.,, bikes running an XL600 Piston and bore.,
Anyway thanks again for the information,, Anyone else doing this,,You can cut
the rubber plug to fit into the hole if you like. I just found it a hassle trying
to cut a circle that small so compromised on it's size and just overlapped it.,
the issue. If only you'd popped up earlier or we could have found some
decent instruction on the net on how to do the mod I would have saved myself heaps
of time and stress. Just need to figure out the Pilot now,,I have a spare 55
so I will try that today sometime. I can screw the fuelscrew all the way in and
the bike doesn't stop,,idle just increases. Any more than about a full 360 on it out from dead stop
and she gets a bit blubbery.,, bikes running an XL600 Piston and bore.,
Anyway thanks again for the information,, Anyone else doing this,,You can cut
the rubber plug to fit into the hole if you like. I just found it a hassle trying
to cut a circle that small so compromised on it's size and just overlapped it.,
Posted 07 February 2012 - 07:42 PM
Yep..I went down to the 55 as when I turned in the fuel screw all the
way with the 58 the bike just kept running,,idle increased. I have the 55
in now and while I haven't really road tested it fully it seems good to me.
I'm one and a half out on the fuel screw and it seems ok,.was only about a half
to one with the 58S in it. Could possibly even go down some more but I won't
decide that till I take it for a decent ride and check the spark plugs colour.I'm at sea level,,about a balmy 23 Celsius.
way with the 58 the bike just kept running,,idle increased. I have the 55
in now and while I haven't really road tested it fully it seems good to me.
I'm one and a half out on the fuel screw and it seems ok,.was only about a half
to one with the 58S in it. Could possibly even go down some more but I won't
decide that till I take it for a decent ride and check the spark plugs colour.I'm at sea level,,about a balmy 23 Celsius.
Posted 07 February 2012 - 08:29 PM
Horri, on 07 February 2012 - 07:42 PM, said:
Yep..I went down to the 55 as when I turned in the fuel screw all the
way with the 58 the bike just kept running,,idle increased. I have the 55
in now and while I haven't really road tested it fully it seems good to me.
I'm one and a half out on the fuel screw and it seems ok,.was only about a half
to one with the 58S in it. Could possibly even go down some more but I won't
decide that till I take it for a decent ride and check the spark plugs colour.I'm at sea level,,about a balmy 23 Celsius.
way with the 58 the bike just kept running,,idle increased. I have the 55
in now and while I haven't really road tested it fully it seems good to me.
I'm one and a half out on the fuel screw and it seems ok,.was only about a half
to one with the 58S in it. Could possibly even go down some more but I won't
decide that till I take it for a decent ride and check the spark plugs colour.I'm at sea level,,about a balmy 23 Celsius.
Posted 08 February 2012 - 04:23 AM
I used a piece of another o-ring the size of a vacuum hole and plugged it with that, but i left the diaphram in there. I rode it around nd it seemed a little bette, but there is still a slight hang. Today is a parts run day to get the gasket material and do the whole mod. Thw throttle was also a little better in that is was not quite as hard to twist as before.
I could deal with the hanging idle, but hated the hard throttle twist. And, not sure if this had anything to do with the ACV, but it would die at times when taking off from a stop light. Anyway, its all trial and error. Thank the good Lord i like turning a wrench. Constantly working on this thing keeps me out of bars and strip clubs...pealers for our Canadian friends. Did i spell that right?
I could deal with the hanging idle, but hated the hard throttle twist. And, not sure if this had anything to do with the ACV, but it would die at times when taking off from a stop light. Anyway, its all trial and error. Thank the good Lord i like turning a wrench. Constantly working on this thing keeps me out of bars and strip clubs...pealers for our Canadian friends. Did i spell that right?
