26 replies to this topic

[Concep29 TT Bronze Member]

payloan, on 24 February 2012 - 02:33 PM, said:

Did you make the longer shock clevis yourself or did you have it made?

Took it to the best aluminum welder in town and explained what I wanted.
Im nowhere near that skilled

Mcduff - Guts doesn't build for the 140 yet.

[payloan]

Concep29, on 24 February 2012 - 02:52 PM, said:

Took it to the best aluminum welder in town and explained what I wanted.
Im nowhere near that skilled

Mcduff - Guts doesn't build for the 140 yet.

Did he just add on to it or make a new one. How much did he charge ya?

[Concep29 TT Bronze Member]

Cut and added 1" Round $40 if I remember.

[payloan]

Concep29, on 27 February 2012 - 06:02 PM, said:

Cut and added 1" Round $40 if I remember.

Good to know. Thanks.
I put a KX shock on my kids 140 and flipped the linkage without the long clevis. That lowered it. The kid is getting bigger now I need to do the mod you did. Your wife's bike came out nice. Thanks Again .

[Concep29 TT Bronze Member]

The 140L clevis can be removed and installed on the 85 shock. The 140 clevis can't is why the mod. (for those that don't know)

Payloan, If you do the clevis mod, you'll have to filp the link back to the original position or it will be too much hight for the chain slider/roller.

[luckystar64 TT Bronze Member]

Hi. I worked with a 140 when they came out in 2008. I just got my GF a TTR125. I'm not doing a ton of mods to it as I'm planning another 140 project after she rides the TTR for a couple seasons. We may do some graphics and a rear chain guide, but that's about it.

About the 140. I had PR2 working on a Fox Podium shock for my ride, I was looking into going 18-20 mm longer in the clevice than the stock. From the research I did-- it seemed like any more than that, and there would be clearance issues. I see what you did though-- you lengthened the KX clevice so the entire shock would be sightly longer than the stock 140 shock, thus adding ride height to the rear.

When I work with the 140 again, I'm now planning on a RaceTech shock so I won't have to dent the frame, and I wanted to limit the travel to 10 inches as to avoid any ground clearance issues. I'd shorten the forks by .8" to do the same up front, and then run them flush with the top of the clamps. I'm thinking about having Adam at Settin Trendz see what he can do as far as either shortening the dog bone links, or even making a custom linkage part to allow the rear to sit up higher w/o having to run a longer clevice.

What did you do to alleviate the button that mounts up front to turn the battery on and off? Wouldn't the battery be on all the time if you did that? I was thinking about modding the top tree to accept the button so it would fit like factory assuming that there's room behind the number plate.

Great job on the bike! Looks great! ----L*64

[themoz74 TT Newbie]

I have a kawasaki dtracker 150, it is basically a supermoto klx 140 for the asian road market. I am a motorcycle mechanic by trade from Australia but now live in asia ( no longer a mechanic !!) I have done the usual airbox and exhaust mods but i was suprised at the power gains i got from fitting an aftermarket CDI unit, it plugged into the standard connection but required some work to get it to fit into the bracket.


unit.

Edited by themoz74, 20 May 2012 - 01:48 AM.