Hey all, this is my first post so im going to try and keep it simple. basically i am lifting my 2004 silverado and i have a few question. first off, i am installing a 6 inch suspension lift, a 3 inch body lift, and 35 inch mud tires. that being said what all do i need to do in the way of regearing my transmission, changing the speedo, adding a new steering stabilizer, etc. basically once i lift it i would like to prevent all problems that would arise as a cause of the lift. i want to do it right the first time so i dont have to fix parts later on down the road. so what all needs to be modified in order to prevent wear and tear on the truck. it is a 2004 silverado 5.3V8 z71 thanks a lot!

well it depends on what is included with your lift kit. do you have a link to what kit you have? the transmission is not regeared, but you may want to regear the rear front and rear differentials. steering stabilizers may or may not be needed but they are very simple to install as for your speedometer im not sure on your truck, it may be electronic.

Yes here is the lift kit http://www.roughcoun...99-06_6ntd.html as well as a 3 inch body lift from rough country as well

This your daily driver?

 clutchless, on 19 January 2012 - 08:23 AM, said:

Yes sir

 matthewbn199, on 19 January 2012 - 08:57 AM, said:

go 2" and get 33" tires. don't waste the money on going to 35" with the big lift. Gas mileage will suck, shit will break, you will have problems.

Or just keep 5k in reserve to fix everything over then next 50k miles. Just know that you are adding a massive expense to your life by putting a lift on the truck not to mention killing all resale value.

Stick with the geometry that the truck was enginered to be driven at.

Just to show you some math.

15 MPG at 15k miles a year = 42 Tanks of gas. 24 Gallons at 3.79 each = 3820.00 in gas.

10 MPG at 15k Miles a year = 62 Tanks of gas. 24 Gallons at 3.79 each = 5639.00 in gas.

33" tires = 220.00 each x 4 = 880.00 + mounting balancing etc. = 1000.00

35" tires = 303.00 each x 4 = 1212 + mounting balancing etc = 1340.00

33" BFG's will go 50k miles+. 35" mud tires will go 20 - 30k 2 - 3 years.

Other problems with big tires include leaking seals in transmission, worn out front end. over heating hubs = worn out bearings. brakes wear out more quickly.

Not to rain on your parade but just showing you some info on why lifting isn't always the best option. Especially since it serves 0 function and it's purley for looks.

Thanks for the opinion, I see where you are coming from. However, I plan on keeping this truck till it dies so I am not too worried about resale value. Nor am I very concerned about MPG either. I would still like to stick to my original plan and I was just wondering on how to go about it without putting too much stress on the vehicle, or how to do it with the least amount of stress. Any other opinions out there?

The instructions are on the link you provided.

And shit will break. Nothing you can do about that. Shit breaks on stock trucks... adding 3000.00 in extras only adds to the price tag.

Get ready to bend over...

Here's my new lift kit...



99.00 and free to install in less then 1 hour.

Adds 2 - 3" if not more.

I'm leveling my truck not lifting it. But if i want the So Cal slant i can do it with ease.

actually lifts do serve a purpose other than looks, lifts are to make more room for bigger tires. bigger tires= more ground clearance= better offroad ability. the lift has everything you will need. if you have a problem with the truck losing too much power(which it will) you will want to regear your axles.new gears will also help MPG around town driving but it will raise your RPMs on the highway.

I sell lift kits regularly at work, probs about 2-3 full kits a month, about 8 in the past 2 months for Christmas. I'm gonna tell you right up front once you go up to 6" you will start having problems, especially with alignment and tire wear. Your CV shafts will be operating at a steeper angle even with the drop parts, as will your tie rod ends.

If you want less stress, drop down to a 4" kit. Cheaper, easier to install, less stress on parts, less problems down the road than a 6". And if your also getting a 3" body lift, thats gonna make up for the loss of the two inches, and if done right and everything is done carefully, you can still slip some 35" in there, but I would stick with 33" considering your truck. 4" kits usually recommend 33", but there thats on the safe side.

As for "regearing" everything, go buy a tuner with a tire size feature. EGDE is currently the best option, good quality and price.

If you do go through with the lift, I think you could fit 35's with just the 6 inch suspension lift. Or, if you go with the body lift and still want 35's, I would just get a 4 inch suspension lift. But, unless you plan on doing some off road driving, lifting a street truck is pretty pointless. Just my opinion.

 Kiffer_XR250R, on 19 January 2012 - 11:31 AM, said:

a programmer might make the speedo correct but regear? no way

Do you really need all that lift? That seems excessive for 35" tires. I'm not familiar with that truck but all it took to put 33" tires on a bronco II was a 2 inch body lift. What kind of ratio are your differentials 4.10? If it's not, it needs to be that atleast. I'm not a big fan of body lifts, yes they are a cheap alternative to get a lifted look, but leave you with stretched wires, fan shrouds that aren't attatched correctlly, and depending on how the bumper is mounted, a bumper sitting 3 inches lower than the body. I guess you don't plan on actually using your truck for any towing or hauling motorcycles in the bed. What a waste of a pickup. If you do go through with it please use it on more than fire roads and don't be a poser like 98% of the people with jacked up trucks are.
Just my opinion

Stock diff ratios on a 1500 Chev is 3.73 unless otherwise requested. For most trucks without a body lift, most compaines recommend a 6" lift for 35" tires on newer trucks. And on top of that, you way have to purchase new wheel also to get the correct back-spacing so nothing rubs.

I have a 6" lift with no body lift on my sierra 2500hd and have no problem fitting 35's if you are going to do that much lift i would recommend 37's. Also go to black bear performance to have your speedo adjusted for the bigger tires. Good luck!

Here's my .02-don't lift your daily driver/hauling vehicle.

You want something to take off-road, tear around in the mud, break parts, scratch and dent, get an older, solid axle truck (cheaper to lift, less compenents to wear out and break).

Beat on that, use it to cruise around when you want to feel "tall" and leave your DD truck stock. Reliability, fuel mileage, wear and tear...your truck will thank you.

And when you go to load your bike at the end of the day, your back, legs and butt will thank you.

And you're a youngster, and you say you're going to keep this truck "forever"...you'll care about mileage when it's your commuter vehicle, and that tall truck is going to really suck when you meet that special chick and start a family...getting little ones in and out of lifted rigs is a miserable adventure.


If you want to roll around on big tires, don't waste your time with a half ton. Even today's half tons aren't sturdy enough for big heavy tires.

 Chickenhauler, on 21 January 2012 - 07:32 PM, said:

hahaha you mean ESPECIALLY todays half tons, everything being produced today is getting worse and worse every year

 Honduhminiman, on 24 January 2012 - 04:07 PM, said:

I beg to differ...towing and cargo ratings keep rising.

Brakes have improved vastly in just the last decade alone.

My FIL has a 2011 F150...that truck will run, tow, and haul circles around my 94. What taxes my truck, his truck hauls with ease.

Trucks have come a long ways, but still, monster tires on a half ton....not a recipe for longevity.

Chickenhauler and a few others have it right.

At the very least, setup a budget. In my opinion 9" of lift for 35's is mall-crawler stuff. Guys on Fullsizechevy stuff them under with smart trimming and just a torsion bar crank. At most a 4" suspension and no body should get you there. Low with bug tires is a good offroad formula. Mega lift just makes a truck tippy and incapable. I ran a Toyota with no lift and 34's for a while. It was fun driving thru an off chamber section with no problem, then watching the guy with 10" of lift and 35's in a YJ, or 8" of lift and 35's on his Toyota need a strap around the top of the cage with 6-8 guys on it too keep them from going over.

Anyway, to do it right you'll need:

• Lift of your choice
  
• Tires
  
• Wheels
  
• Front and rear diff regear (4.56's for 35's would be my recommendation)
  
• Tuner to correct speedometer for new gears/tires
  
• Possibly upgraded steering components (stuff will wear out 10 times faster)
  
• Keep a brake upgrade in mind, stockers will not work as well with the added leverage of taller tires, nor the 20-50 lbs of rotating fat that big tires/wheels add
  
• A large sack of money for the extra gas and shorter component life for idler arms, tie-rods, ball joints, CV's, brakes, and mud terrains that have half the life of AT's

You are talking thousands of dollars to do it right. Heck, a good deal on a regear would be $1200, many guys on boards pay $1K per axle. Add more if you are adding locker(s).

 adam728, on 25 January 2012 - 02:36 AM, said:

This is reality right here....great post.