Hello to all the sled heads out there.
Ok I need advice. What can I do to make her respond faster to my inputs. I am not looking for more Hp or Torgue(at the moment). Just suspension help or anything that will help me get more control over her. I would love to run down and get a 11 or newer rmk, But that is not in the cards.
A little about me. I am 165. So she really handles me more then I handle her. I am somewhere in between a novice/beginners rider. The area where I ride is west moutain, Brundage, warren wagon and lick creek, Adams county Idaho
Oh and thank god we are finally getting new snow in the Northwest.
06 RMK 900 set up
Started by
IdahoThumber
, Jan 17 2012 02:40 PM
4 replies to this topic
Posted 16 March 2012 - 02:40 PM
Had an '06 900... parting it out right now (rod bearing let go last month). It was my first sled, the one I learned to ride on.
Front-end needs a lot of work on that sled.
The '06 spindles are junk... replace them with '07-10 spindles. Same fitment with a slightly different geometry.
Get rid of the sway bar. Makes the sled a little more tippy on the trail, but the huge improvement off-trail is worth it.
Skis... anything's better than the stock sidehillers. I had Simmons on mine and I liked 'em. Slydogs don't work real well on the IQ chassis. Know a lot of people that have ran the Powder Pros and liked them.
Front radiator delete will shed about 10lbs off the front end. Plug the line from the coolant bottle to the radiator, and replace the tee with a union. Parts are available at most hardware/plumbing stores. Run a set of scratchers on the trail and the sled stays about 10° cooler than it does with the radiator.
The usual gearing/clutching setups... I geared my 900 down, 19/42 iirc, and ran 70g weights in the primary. Gearing it down gets the sled moving and on top of the snow, instead of the track chainsaw-ing into the snow, from a stop. Did lose a bit of top-end speed from this, but it'd still pull over 80m/h... more than enough.
Engine-wise... there's a lot of work you can do here.
The airbox design is garbage... convoluted, over-engineered system. I built my own, worked great and I guarantee it weighs less than the stock design.
Front motor mounts are prone to tearing, once they go the motor doesn't stay put... moving your clutches out of alignment... putting more wear on the belt, and more stress on the crank. Honestly, I believe a lot of the bad rep these sleds got is due to the effects of poor front motor mounts. Keep the clutches aligned and happy, the crank will last just as long as any other sled.
Years ago a guy on snowest put together a kit for the front motor mounts. I put that on, and then started having problems with the engine brace breaking in half. Got two of them broken in the same spot... designed my own billet engine brace that integrated some pieces of the aftermarket motor mount kit... now I just snapped brace bolts and shredded urethane pucks. Kept an eye on those and replaced as needed; both are a lot cheaper than engine braces and crankshafts. (Machine shops can cut the urethane pucks, and McMaster has the bolts for cheap.)
A torque limiter (SLP made one) helps keep the torque stop from getting hammered out.
The biggest thing is keeping the motor in place in the bulkhead. That motor makes more power than the chassis is built for, so it requires some beefing-up if you want the chassis/engine to last.
Throttle cable... there's a little connecting cable between the oil pump and throttle body that frays and breaks, holding your oil pump wide open. Getting to that cable generally requires removal of the engine... if you're crafty and have small hands you can get to it with the motor in the chassis. Had custom cables made that wye in the middle of the cable, one cable end to the TB and the other to the oiler. This lets you pull the throttle body off without dealing with that connecting cable underneath and greatly reduces the potential of the oil pump sticking open.
The plastic rider-select "feature" is junk... that broke in the first 300 miles on the odometer. Sold my rider-select delete kit already, but that's a worthwhile investment. I can get you in contact with the guy that makes them, he may have a few left over.
Front bumper leaves a lot to be desired... I broke the plastic stuff in the first month or two I had the sled. Replaced with a Tri-City bumper (Requires rad. delete kit mentioned above)... still broke that one a few times.
These sleds can run, no doubt about it. They're heavy, but with a little bit (okay, a lot a bit) of work they'll keep up with most sleds out there.
Just be aware that once you start modding the motor (head, pipe, porting, etc) the sled's gonna be a bitch to keep running right. Know a lot of people that made that mistake... just leave it stock and they'll behave.
Single biggest thing you can do to improve your riding is ride more often on whatever sled you have.
Like I said, I'm parting mine out. I'll post parts/pieces on ebay then link them here.
Front-end needs a lot of work on that sled.
The '06 spindles are junk... replace them with '07-10 spindles. Same fitment with a slightly different geometry.
Get rid of the sway bar. Makes the sled a little more tippy on the trail, but the huge improvement off-trail is worth it.
Skis... anything's better than the stock sidehillers. I had Simmons on mine and I liked 'em. Slydogs don't work real well on the IQ chassis. Know a lot of people that have ran the Powder Pros and liked them.
Front radiator delete will shed about 10lbs off the front end. Plug the line from the coolant bottle to the radiator, and replace the tee with a union. Parts are available at most hardware/plumbing stores. Run a set of scratchers on the trail and the sled stays about 10° cooler than it does with the radiator.
The usual gearing/clutching setups... I geared my 900 down, 19/42 iirc, and ran 70g weights in the primary. Gearing it down gets the sled moving and on top of the snow, instead of the track chainsaw-ing into the snow, from a stop. Did lose a bit of top-end speed from this, but it'd still pull over 80m/h... more than enough.
Engine-wise... there's a lot of work you can do here.
The airbox design is garbage... convoluted, over-engineered system. I built my own, worked great and I guarantee it weighs less than the stock design.
Front motor mounts are prone to tearing, once they go the motor doesn't stay put... moving your clutches out of alignment... putting more wear on the belt, and more stress on the crank. Honestly, I believe a lot of the bad rep these sleds got is due to the effects of poor front motor mounts. Keep the clutches aligned and happy, the crank will last just as long as any other sled.
Years ago a guy on snowest put together a kit for the front motor mounts. I put that on, and then started having problems with the engine brace breaking in half. Got two of them broken in the same spot... designed my own billet engine brace that integrated some pieces of the aftermarket motor mount kit... now I just snapped brace bolts and shredded urethane pucks. Kept an eye on those and replaced as needed; both are a lot cheaper than engine braces and crankshafts. (Machine shops can cut the urethane pucks, and McMaster has the bolts for cheap.)
A torque limiter (SLP made one) helps keep the torque stop from getting hammered out.
The biggest thing is keeping the motor in place in the bulkhead. That motor makes more power than the chassis is built for, so it requires some beefing-up if you want the chassis/engine to last.
Throttle cable... there's a little connecting cable between the oil pump and throttle body that frays and breaks, holding your oil pump wide open. Getting to that cable generally requires removal of the engine... if you're crafty and have small hands you can get to it with the motor in the chassis. Had custom cables made that wye in the middle of the cable, one cable end to the TB and the other to the oiler. This lets you pull the throttle body off without dealing with that connecting cable underneath and greatly reduces the potential of the oil pump sticking open.
The plastic rider-select "feature" is junk... that broke in the first 300 miles on the odometer. Sold my rider-select delete kit already, but that's a worthwhile investment. I can get you in contact with the guy that makes them, he may have a few left over.
Front bumper leaves a lot to be desired... I broke the plastic stuff in the first month or two I had the sled. Replaced with a Tri-City bumper (Requires rad. delete kit mentioned above)... still broke that one a few times.
These sleds can run, no doubt about it. They're heavy, but with a little bit (okay, a lot a bit) of work they'll keep up with most sleds out there.
Just be aware that once you start modding the motor (head, pipe, porting, etc) the sled's gonna be a bitch to keep running right. Know a lot of people that made that mistake... just leave it stock and they'll behave.
Single biggest thing you can do to improve your riding is ride more often on whatever sled you have.
Like I said, I'm parting mine out. I'll post parts/pieces on ebay then link them here.
Posted 21 March 2012 - 05:47 AM
Sorry to hear about your first sled. I Hope you get a new sled soon and back out riding before all the snow is gone. I will be looking for that ebay link.
Posted 21 March 2012 - 12:17 PM
Never really had much snow out here to begin with... not too tore up about missing the rest of the season. Kinda had a love-hate relationship with that sled... ran great, but keeping it running was a chore and when it got stuck it was a pig to dig out.
Ebay stuff's here; got a lot more I'll list later. If there's anything you need/want, ask.
Ebay stuff's here; got a lot more I'll list later. If there's anything you need/want, ask.
Related Content
Polaris 800 PRO- RMK 155 (2012) |
|
|
|
Polaris XLT SP Xtra (1994) |
|
|
|
Polaris 900 RMK (2006) |
|
|
|
KTM 525 XC-W (2007) |
|
|
|
|
Polaris XLT Touring 1999Polaris XLT Touring 1999 |
|
