Just here to see if anyone on here has any useful mods for the Gasser for enduro competition riding? I have a meca sump guard and gnarly FMF already fitted and I have swapped the stupid fixings on the rad panels to nut and bolt.

Hand guards and radiator braces.

The power delivery is probably the most adjustable part, and thats 90% jetting. Head over to http://www.gasgasrid...forum/index.php and check out the jetting section, theres plenty of info on there about jetting and power delivery.

depending on the race lengths a big tank.

I personally wouldn't use nuts and bolts to hold the shrouds to the rads as they can potentially damage the rads when you come off.
Most people I know have drilled a hole so they can use tie wraps as they will break long before the rads!

My guess would be that its all personal preference items that you want for protection/comfort, what are some things you're looking to improve on? May help some people chime in

Tigger 50 might try that actually sounds fair enough. Well Iam not all that clued up with tanks for the gas gas it would help having a bigger one as it drinks fuel. Some good filters I could also use if anyone knows of any good ones. Has anyone done any mods to their back brake as I don't like the way it sticks out and up. Also is there a bearing or something in the back brake pedal as mine has started to wobble. One last thing any one know where to get a cheap set of dics back one being a solid type?

markhillierrees said:

Drinking lots of fuel is a result of rich jetting, 60miles/100km from a stock tank shouldn't be too difficult with the right jetting.
Aftermarket fuel tanks do exist, Clarke and safari tanks both make a bigger tank. I think there is also a bigger tank as a power parts option but its really expensive.
Air filters? TwinAir make gasgas air filters.
Any solid brake disc that fits a modern-ish KTM will fit your gasgas.
Not really anything for the brake pedal at the moment as far as aftermarket goes, there's talk of a YZ pedal fitting. If the lever is too high you need to cut some of the thread off bolt that threads into the brake clevis to allow the pedal to sit lower.

You can change the bush in the pedal easily enough, Biketech in the UK have all the parts and Dave is great with advice and help too. I've got an aftermarket billet alloy rear pedal on the 300 which seems better the the OEM part - I think they're about £35 from Trials and Enduro Direct?

My 300 drinks fuel too, much more than my old 250, I'm certain the float level is wrong as I've noticed it pisses out when parked up with the fuel on.

Mine does drink fuel but I think its just because its a 300 2 stroke it will do about 30-35 miles without hitting reserve in an enduro in wet conditions.do they do those wire things to stop the brake pedal from bending out on the gassers?

Thanks everyone for your posts by the way.

I'd vote for a big tank. This bike sucks some fuel. Granted the jetting works good fat here but still...that's the better mod after the normal guards everywhere. Other than that the bike has everything. That's the good thing about these bikes...plus the great crossreference of parts on these bikes.

http://www.gasgasrid..._crossover.html You can check here for more info too..

markhillierrees, on 04 January 2012 - 09:51 AM, said:

GasGas makes a solid rear rotor you can order.