XR650R idle


42 replies to this topic
  • wera419

Posted January 06, 2012 - 04:28 PM

#21

No answer from the 650r forum.

AJCV - I'm not sure witch hole to block off? I blocked off the hole on the side of the carb that passes through the cover. No change. I then reinstalled the o-ring (unplugged). There is another hole under the diaphram?

I think I'm down to the needle and needle jet.

  • Horri

Posted January 06, 2012 - 06:44 PM

#22

Should be a hole under the diaphragm which the ACV pushes into,,I also believe there's a circuit from there that ends up at the rear end of the carb where the air filter pipe attaches but as you say I don't know what hole the joker means in that post over at that 650r forum,,You'd think they'd have left a diagram or a semi decent explanation but no,,nothing.,

  • pb1963

Posted January 24, 2012 - 10:17 AM

#23

No answer from the 650r forum.

AJCV - I'm not sure witch hole to block off? I blocked off the hole on the side of the carb that passes through the cover. No change. I then reinstalled the o-ring (unplugged). There is another hole under the diaphram?

I think I'm down to the needle and needle jet.


I've got the same question. I blocked off the hole underneath the diaphram with some rvt and left the one on the cover alone. Fired the bike up and it was definatley different at how fast the engine returned to idle after I revved it up some. Felt more like my 450X. However, I'm still not sure I've plugged the right hole but it sounds like it if you plugged the cover and saw no change. Anyone??

  • xr650r148w

Posted February 07, 2012 - 09:22 PM

#24

I had the same issue. I noticed it most when clutch pulled in when shifting gears or coming to a stop. After many nights waking up thinking about it I decided it was the air cut off valve. I cut an inner tube patch to cover the small vacuum hole, took out the air cut off diaphram and spring, made a gasket the shape of the acv cover with holes for the screws, put gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket and put it back together. that was it , high idle was gone. Just ride! Pilot jet will need to be changed to a smaller size but that size has not been determined yet. From other posts (Horri) it will be a 58 or a little lower. I will be rejetting this weekend and will post.

  • treysoucie

Posted May 02, 2012 - 10:32 AM

#25

Any updates in here?

  • Horri

Posted May 02, 2012 - 12:18 PM

#26

What sort of update are you looking for??. The post above your last one tells you how to block the ACV. If it's not clear let me know and I'll post a couple of pictures showing you what holes to block etc..My update on it after doing it on the 600 to try and fix the hanging idle is that I've abandoned the idea and bought another used XR carb from Ebay.It arrived from the states last week so I put it on the bike after cleaning it up a bit and replacing a few bits..Bike now starts and idles fine..Something major wrong with the other carb I was trying to use so it's now in the spares department..I also couldn't work out what jetting to use with the ACV blocked,,Kept seeming to be rich no matter how far I went down in Pilots,,got to a 48 and it was still rich (plug black)..that was when I pulled the plug on that particular carb as the time I'd spent on it had become ridiculous..New carb has a 158/60 in it,,good enough jetting wise for me.

Edited by Horri, May 02, 2012 - 12:29 PM.


  • treysoucie

Posted May 02, 2012 - 01:16 PM

#27

Ive read multiple ways of doing this... What is the "best"? Ive heard some means of disabling will not allow air to get to the pilot... I basically want my carb to work normally, except disable it from closing air off when decelerating...

Edited by treysoucie, May 02, 2012 - 01:19 PM.


  • Horri

Posted May 02, 2012 - 02:17 PM

#28

The easiest way is the way that's listed 4 posts up from here. It is the best and simplest way to do it.

  • pb1963

Posted May 02, 2012 - 02:48 PM

#29

Ive read multiple ways of doing this... What is the "best"? Ive heard some means of disabling will not allow air to get to the pilot... I basically want my carb to work normally, except disable it from closing air off when decelerating...


I had the hanging idle problem on my 650R. Here is an entire thread that I started showing my results. Don't know if it was the right way but it was simple and my bike runs awesome!

http://www.thumperta...__fromsearch__1

  • Jayrod1318

Posted May 02, 2012 - 06:21 PM

#30

I had quite an erratic idle too. the steps taken to solve are as follows:

Replaced stuck open stock thermostat. (idle problems associated with operating temps?)

Disassembled carb and cleaned thoroughly all passages! ( eVerything!!!!! also inspected Air cut off valve and cleaned!!!! ( blocked passages and or debris?)

Cleared blocked overflow line from float bowl. (was packed with dirt, I wonder if this blocking air egress from bowel thereby pressurizing the bowl?) I sniped the end of the hose lengthwise so this doesn't occur again. I think this was the biggest problem!!! idle was always higher once warmed up!

Lubricated and checked free play of throttle cables. ( return cable was quite loose).

Set Idle at normal operating temp of 180F-210F. ( mine runs about 190F at idle for ten minutes stationary)


Bike idles fine and predictably once to operating temp. No issues with idle speed anymore.

Ps. whiskey post!

  • LennyG

Posted June 13, 2012 - 04:00 PM

#31

Its been a long time since ive been here, but I HAVE FIXXED MY PROBLEM :devil: .
Its was my vavles. They were almost all the way closed.
My bike has done quite a few K's, so the lower compressen than normal didnt make me think of checking the valves.
I took my bike to a mates place, getting ready to do a top end rebuild and cam chain, when another bloke ( a 4 stroke genius ) said , 'well, you know, sounds like the valves...
Pulled the caps off, adjusted them back to stock settings, and bobs you aunty. The big girl, ( my bike, not my aunty), it like brand new, I have a new found love for my bike again. hope this helps some1.
I just dont know how the ajustment had closed so much.

  • Jayrod1318

Posted June 15, 2012 - 08:15 AM

#32

valve seats wear.... and they tighten up.

  • Graham Dwight

Posted July 04, 2013 - 02:06 PM

#33

I'm wondering why you guys went to a 58 pilot when all mods say to use the 68s. I'm using the 65s but I'm at 3200' and its hot out. What elevation are you guys at? And why go to such a lean pilot?

BTW. I did the mod and it worked! My bike now idles like it should and come back down to idle speed when coming to a stop. Thanks for the thread.

Edited by Graham Dwight, July 04, 2013 - 02:08 PM.


  • Bmframe

Posted July 04, 2013 - 11:12 PM

#34

Vacuum leak

  • Horri

Posted July 05, 2013 - 01:33 PM

#35

I'm wondering why you guys went to a 58 pilot when all mods say to use the 68s. I'm using the 65s but I'm at 3200' and its hot out. What elevation are you guys at? And why go to such a lean pilot?

BTW. I did the mod and it worked! My bike now idles like it should and come back down to idle speed when coming to a stop. Thanks for the thread.


From all the reading and bits and bobs thrown in by others on the problem the recommendation was that if you blocked the ACV you had to go down in jetting on the pilot,,I did the mod on my XR600 and a couple of times thought it had fixed my issue with the hanging throttle only to have it rear its head again..In the end I'd wasted too much time on the problem so bit the bullet and got another used carb from Ebay,,all I can add..

Edited by Horri, July 05, 2013 - 01:40 PM.


  • tiemann1

Posted July 05, 2013 - 05:29 PM

#36

The XR650R was engineered as a desert racer to be pushed WOT. I've ran the stock carb and the TM40. Smooth idle is at times erratic depending. I don't worry about it too much, If you want a smooth idle, then buy a bike with a CV carb like a KLR. It's always a trade off.

Edited by tiemann1, July 05, 2013 - 05:33 PM.


  • Graham Dwight

Posted July 05, 2013 - 08:03 PM

#37

I just wanted it to idle, period. It idles now with attitude. Before it would either die at 1200 rpm or rev to the moon. I'm stoked it just idles at 1500 and sounds mean.

  • Graham Dwight

Posted August 18, 2013 - 08:10 PM

#38

So after doing the mod the 65s pilot is bogging at 1/8 throttle. So I installed a 55 to hopefully fix the bog. I wanted to try a 58 or 60 first but the shop only had a 55 at the time. With the fuel screw at 2 turns out, IT WORKED! BUT, the hanging idle returned once the bike was warm. Would you say that changing to a slightly richer pilot, 58 or 60, might balance out the issue? Otherwise, I'm lost. I hate both issues. I do not want a bog. It need to run right. But it at least needs to idle. I'm not buying a POS KLR.


Edited by Graham Dwight, August 18, 2013 - 08:14 PM.


  • temporarykiwi

Posted August 19, 2013 - 04:51 PM

#39

another factor to remember is that the bowl gets hot- fuel inside gets hot, an insulator cover or alloy deflector plate does help with the idle deterorating once on the trail



  • Graham Dwight

Posted August 19, 2013 - 07:39 PM

#40

another factor to remember is that the bowl gets hot- fuel inside gets hot, an insulator cover or alloy deflector plate does help with the idle deterorating once on the trail

I didn't make it to a trail. I was doing a test ride down a 45mph road. When I turned around, the idle went up like before. I lowered the idle speed, road back home testing for a bog. I shifted to fifth going about 30mph just to see what would happen.Rolled on the throttle slow from no throttle to 3/4 throttle. No bog through the power range up to 60. When I slowed and turned onto my street, the idle rev was up and needed to be brought back down with the clutch. I'm going to see what 2.5 turns out does on the fuel screw. If it still idles high, I'll jump to a 60 pilot and test from there. And I'll report back with results. Not sure when that will be though. Hopefully ASAP.







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