Smacaroni said:

I hear that, I have a feeling that I'll go into is using washers as a "temporary solution" with plans to build some spacers, but never will... Lol

Without the correct dimension spacers. If you just use washers the bearing sleeves are not the correct lengths. It will probably work though

actually, the more I think about it...the sleeves are not the correct length...so how did you use washers?

I don't recall off the top of my head but I'm looking to see if we have any photos. I think it was between the swing arm and the engine cases. What ever it was it worked out that the swing arm was centered the way it should be. You probably don't even need the spacers but I felt better putting them in.

Tom, if the sleeves are not the correct length did you have to cut them down? This was the modification that my buddy was telling me about *I think*

After looking at photos, I definitely have several between the frame and the swing arm on the right side. There are probably also several on the left side as well, but I can't see them in the photos.
Ignore my comment that you may not need them as hard shocks side to side would add stress to the engine cases - being a brittle metal that's going to end badly over time.

yes, I dont want any slop side to side in the swingarm that is for sure. I am just trying to make sure I have all my ducks in a row for the install as I am trying to minimize down time. The Ice is getting thick around here and I dont want to miss any riding!

Im planning on getting the KX rear wheel re-laced, new bearing, new sprocket and have the swing arm all machined with the new DRZ bearings installed. Then I will make sure to have a bunch of washers (or the spacers pre made if possible) Can you guys think of anything else I need ??

Because the spacers are not the correct length,when you shim the gaps (with the washers) and then tighten the swingarm bolts. You are supposed to be tightening up against the sleeves. If the sleeve is to short, you will be pinching the swingarm and side loading the bearings. The sleeves are supposed to be SLIGHTLY longer then the width of the swingarm where the bearings are pressed. Another way to correct this is have spacers that taper so when tightened, they will tighten against the sleeves, and not the swingarm. If you have the stock kawi sleeves, measure them. That is the total distance needed. As I recal, one of the drz sleeves is to short, so I compensated with the custom spacers. Problem is they are a little to intricate to just give a measurement.

Tom

Let me clarify...the sleeves either need to be slightly wider or the spacers need to be stepped so that when tou tighten the swingarm bolt the small part of the spacer goes into the seal and rests on the sleeve while the larger part of the spacer rests very closely to the outside of the swingarm. (That's what takes the side play out of the swingarm like the washer setup).

I totally get what you are saying. I think its going to be hard for me to get this thing in and out of the shop in one day....

If both pieces are there its very easy and quick. There's no reason they couldn't be done at the same time

you would also need an accurate measurement of the frame at the swing-arm pivot though. I didn't try to get one with the bike assembled, but I'm sure it can be done.

Very true smac. I was assuming he was taking the bike... I forgot he was just taking the swingarm. Anyways, you could take the shock off, and basicly just leave the rear tire on for alignment. Measuring the gap and spooling up some spacers should be pretty easy.

I was just hoping to have all my ducks in a row so when I pull my stock swing arm off, I have everything I need to bolt up the KX rear end.

My swing arm is due back in 3 days ~ Thus I'm very interested.

My Thoughts on the washers:
It seems to me that the stock DR-Z 125L Swing arm bolt / spacers and engine case are already spaced correctly for the engine / frame. Pressing my old bushings into the new KX swing arm ~ the only thing changin is the location of the swing arm in relation to the frame / engine case. If I make up the distance with washers as to best center the chain line then I should be golden. The swing arm spacers will have to not be a tight fit as the swing arm will need free-play to move freely on the pivot bushings. Adding too many washers to the swing arm spacing will pinch the swing arm between the frame and engine case. I'm thinking of dropping in a few O-rings just somthing to take up the slack so I don't have the nuts in a coffee can rattle from the spacer washers. The spacer washers will take any side load force that might kick the swing arm out of alignment and help take that side load force off of the rear suspension components.

Not having the swing arm in hand yet, am I on the right track? Swing arm bearing upgrade may come later ~ gotta make it run / ride and earn the upgrade first. I only have 40' of total ride time on the bike thus far ~ rear wheel was blown up / KX swap is my solution.

The problem comes from the fact that kx swingarm where the bearings press in is a different size then the drz. When you tighten the swingarm bolt, it compresses the frame a little.if you don't have either a spacer made to press on the sleeves, or sleeves that are longer then the width of the swingarm, you will be binding the swingarm when you tighten the swingarm bolt. Just make sure you press or tighten against the sleeves, not the swingarm.

firepiper, on 31 December 2011 - 02:40 AM, said:

If your chain and sprockets are worn out and hooked you'll keep breaking spokes . I would replace them if they are worn it will solve a bunch of spoke troubles

levic900rr, if you still need the measurements of the spacers, let me know. I agree, you should use the DRZ swingarm bearings and seals, bore the KX swingarm to accept them. Yes you also need to cut down the length of the bearing sleeves, I made them a few thousandths wider than the installed seals. The spacers can be mild steel, stainless or aluminum but should fit without lateral movement of the swingarm. I can also give you a template to mount the rear master cylinder if you need one. I used a master cylinder from a CRF250R because it has the reservoir built in so I didn't need to mount the remote reservoir of the KX but the hole spacing is the same. There are a few other things that may help you if you haven't finished yet, I am on the NH coast not that far from you, but I also have lots of photos I could send you also.

Or you can cut a step into the swingarmspacer so you dont have to cut the bearing sleeves every time you get a new set. That way a new set will be plug and play. Chief is correct, and his way will work, but will require more work when the bearings and sleeves need to be replaced

Tom

Chief - send me everything you got. AND... if you feel like making a road trip this summer for some mini moto let me know, we usually do 2 pretty big ride days at my buddies tracks.

Tom, Good point. I think that is what I may end up doing in the end.

I got the DRZ out on the ice last weekend, it was so awesome. Thing was hooking up like a moto gp bike! I'll try and get some chest mount footage up tonight.