2010-12 engine reposition


116 replies to this topic
  • almostinvincible119

Posted February 18, 2012 - 03:12 PM

#61

Sorry for the delay in a review.

I tried the collars with a few different set ups. I wanted to get a feel for them all and compare to see where each were. All setups include the Lightspeed collars, and different variations while using them.

1. Pro Circuit Link w/ forks raised 5mm- First off; I hated this. I literally scared me in every corner of the track. The front end was all too responsive and wanted to "knife in" every time I moved the bars. I rode about 2 laps with this and quickly came to change it.

2. Pro Circuit Link w/ forks level with clamps- The bike really felt the same as before, with the forks raised, but it wasn't as nervous in the corners. Still very responsive, and had the same knifing characteristics as previously mentioned.

3. Stock Link w/ forks raised 5 mm- The bike felt 10x's better than with the PC link. (I know the instructions say to run the stock link, but I wanted to try different settings and I already had the PC link on the bike.) It handled well, I wouldn't put it on par with a Suzuki, but the collars definitely helped the "light front end" feel that everyone seems to suffer with.

4. Stock Link w/ forks level with clamps- I went back and forth between the forks being flush and raised 5mm. Somewhere in-between 0-5mm i found to be the money spot. The bike didn't handle much differently as mentioned in #3.

Overall, I'm satisfied with the product. It helps put just a little weight on the front tire, gives it a more planted feel and eliminates the tendency to guess whether or not your front tire is going to say "see ya" middle of the way through the corner.

Do I believe that it is an "end all" fix for the 10-12 YZ's? - NO, its a bandaid fix at best. It helps, and if your willing to play with suspension clickers and fork height adjustment to find that sweet spot it very well be the last thing that you do buy to fix the handling woes of your YZ.

  • luvnoldcars

Posted February 18, 2012 - 04:13 PM

#62

nice review. i think im gonna buy a set and try them out. a couple days ago i was jumping a triple that has a quick turn after it (you have to set up in the air for the turn). as soon as i landed and got on the front brake the front end let go. it happend so fast i couldnt get my hands off the bars before i hit the ground. now i have a clutch lever that is bent like a horse shoe from were it bent around my fingers and a busted helmet. hope these will help that not happen again.

  • BBrown626

Posted February 18, 2012 - 04:38 PM

#63

good review. glad to hear they work. Still waiting on a DRD kit. should be in next week.

  • Stu2

Posted February 19, 2012 - 05:45 AM

#64

I am not really understanding the review and what you are saying almostinvincible119,

You say in no 1. That the bike wanted to knife, but the reason for the PC lowering link is to lower the angle of the bike and remove the stink bug tendency of the bike, this would if anything promote understeer and pushing of the front, knifing under is the opposite and is caused from too high a rear, not too low as with the stock linkage ?

I run the PC linkage and with the forks flush there is no way the bike will knife or tuck under, even with the forks raised 8mm the bike is no closer to knifing

  • almostinvincible119

Posted February 19, 2012 - 06:05 AM

#65

I'm speaking in terms of the link with the engine collars. The collars pushing the engine 2mm forward. Just reporting what I felt, I'm not claiming to understand the geometry of the bike. I think we can all agree that the bike has problems, but for some reason, pushing the engine forward and lowering the bike made for a very unsettling feeling.

Maybe its reverse in the southern hem? :bonk:

  • Steve 396

Posted February 19, 2012 - 07:38 PM

#66

Talked to a guy at the track today about this very thing. He had these collars and said they helped with what has been talked about in this thread. He also has tried a WR link too, maybe 06-08 years, he wasnt exactly sure. He recommended the collars and thought I might like what they do.

I am new to this site (1st post by the way) and only had my 11 450 for a month. I am coming off an 06 CRF and this bike definately turns better. I too think it's a little unpredicatable at times. Had it knife on me and then a lap later in a different corner feel like it is trying to wash out on me. I have set my sag and raised my forks up a few mm's. Think I will try playing with different fork heights tomorrow. I might try these things out if they seem to help.

Steve

  • Steve 396

Posted February 19, 2012 - 07:39 PM

#67

And as a matter of fact, it could have been almostinvincable I talked with today!

Steve

  • almostinvincible119

Posted February 20, 2012 - 09:47 AM

#68

Bingo Steve

  • Steve 396

Posted February 20, 2012 - 07:54 PM

#69

Cool! I worked on my fork settings today at green acres mx and it is definately better. Still think I am going to look more into these collars though.

Steve

  • cablemonkey334

Posted February 27, 2012 - 06:26 AM

#70

i ve been waitin almost 3 week for the dr,d pcs keep getting a story about some bad machining , cant wait to get them on and give a try. springs coming and its about time to race.

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  • BBrown626

Posted February 28, 2012 - 06:18 PM

#71

My wife called DRD today. She was told they have a batch ready to ship or pick up tomorrow. Was supposed to be ready today but the printer didn't deliver the installation instructions.

Edited by BBrown626, February 28, 2012 - 06:19 PM.


  • BBrown626

Posted March 02, 2012 - 06:10 PM

#72

Installed my DRD kit today.
It drops the front of the motor about 2-3 mm.
I used a small pneumatic grinder with a rasp in order to remove the material in the way of the sway bar bolt.
I used my Dremel tool to grind the lower engine mounts.
It was a fairly easy modification. I like the fact that the DrD kit includes new forward engine mounts, so you are not slotting everything and risking some movement.
My only complaint with the kit is that the collars are not beveled like the stock collars. It was difficult to reinstall the swingarm without that bevel as there is no clearance.
Hopefully riding Perris tomorrow to test the engine relocation kit and play with my new power tuner.

Edited by BBrown626, March 03, 2012 - 04:15 PM.


  • BBrown626

Posted March 04, 2012 - 03:21 PM

#73

I was able to put in some laps at Perris today. The engine relocation makes a very noticeable difference. The inside lines were easier. The bike is definitely more planted in the corners. It took a little time to adjust to it. The combination of the engine relocation and running the MXA "less hit" map was fantastic. I definitely recommend the DRD engine relocation kit.

  • waukee

Posted March 05, 2012 - 05:20 AM

#74

are you using the lowering kit with a stock or aftermarket lowering link?

  • mxbrewski

Posted March 05, 2012 - 06:52 AM

#75

Thanks you guys for the updates on this relocation kit. It is input like this that allows us on a budget to evaluate the importance of what to purchase for our bikes. Again, thanks for the evaluations, I'll be ordering mine soon. Also a question, does it seem to help with the light feeling of the front when entering corners and letting off the throttle?

  • dcrider942

Posted March 06, 2012 - 08:31 AM

#76

I rode my 2011 YZ450 all stock, felt the uneasy feeling going into corners, so I swapped the link with my '06 YZ450(was the suggested 1.5mm longer). I also moved the forks up and down to test different set-ups. It made a big difference in getting rid of the vague feeling going into corners. I ended up liking the forks at stock height. Then I read the posts here and saw both kits available. I had my brother, who is a machinist, make me a set to mimic the ones sold by Dr. D(2.5mm), but maintain the stock chamfers for ease of installation. Costed almost nothing for material.

"WHAT A DIFFERENCE!" Initially I loosened up all the mounts, put the collars in, and to my surprise(due to not having the instructions you get when buying a set), I was able to install all the mounts and bolts without filing or modifying any mounts.

My first ride with the collars, I was able to immediately notice the difference they made with the 'more weight on the front' feeling. Definately easier to turn, even with the longer pull rod. Then I switched the rod back to the stock one and it was even better. I have been revalving suspension for years, so I had revalved my forks to make them more plush on small bumps and settle in the corner better. With the combination of everything, it was worth it. Forks are back to stock height, played with sag, but because I like the rear a little low(due to being a shorty), I ended up keeping sag at 105mm.

Hope this helps anyone interested in purchasing a set of collars. To ME, they were worth it.

Edited by dcrider942, March 06, 2012 - 08:31 AM.


  • DC_Excitement

Posted March 06, 2012 - 05:11 PM

#77

ok i think im sold on them now. how do i get my hands on a set of the Dr D ones. call them and put my name on a list?


oh nevermind i see them on their site. comes with an exhaust spacer also. alittle steep price tag though

Edited by davecarrr414, March 06, 2012 - 05:25 PM.


  • BBrown626

Posted March 06, 2012 - 06:26 PM

#78

are you using the lowering kit with a stock or aftermarket lowering link?


Stock link. Forks about 7mm above the clamp.

  • BBrown626

Posted March 06, 2012 - 06:28 PM

#79

Thanks you guys for the updates on this relocation kit. It is input like this that allows us on a budget to evaluate the importance of what to purchase for our bikes. Again, thanks for the evaluations, I'll be ordering mine soon. Also a question, does it seem to help with the light feeling of the front when entering corners and letting off the throttle?


you will feel it lean into the corner better

Edited by BBrown626, March 06, 2012 - 06:30 PM.


  • BBrown626

Posted March 06, 2012 - 06:37 PM

#80

I rode my 2011 YZ450 all stock, felt the uneasy feeling going into corners, so I swapped the link with my '06 YZ450(was the suggested 1.5mm longer). I also moved the forks up and down to test different set-ups. It made a big difference in getting rid of the vague feeling going into corners. I ended up liking the forks at stock height. Then I read the posts here and saw both kits available. I had my brother, who is a machinist, make me a set to mimic the ones sold by Dr. D(2.5mm), but maintain the stock chamfers for ease of installation. Costed almost nothing for material.

"WHAT A DIFFERENCE!" Initially I loosened up all the mounts, put the collars in, and to my surprise(due to not having the instructions you get when buying a set), I was able to install all the mounts and bolts without filing or modifying any mounts.

My first ride with the collars, I was able to immediately notice the difference they made with the 'more weight on the front' feeling. Definately easier to turn, even with the longer pull rod. Then I switched the rod back to the stock one and it was even better. I have been revalving suspension for years, so I had revalved my forks to make them more plush on small bumps and settle in the corner better. With the combination of everything, it was worth it. Forks are back to stock height, played with sag, but because I like the rear a little low(due to being a shorty), I ended up keeping sag at 105mm.

Hope this helps anyone interested in purchasing a set of collars. To ME, they were worth it.


If you didn't have to elongate the lower engine mount holes you may not have moved the engine as far as the DRD kit. While the stock bolt had some slop in the mount, when the engine was moved it would not fit. Perhaps your engine mount holes on the frame were larger or your bolt had a smaller diameter? I had to trim about 1.2-2mm? Obviously there is some slop in the stock configuration because the DRD kit uses the stock upper mounts.
That is great that you hade resouces to make your own. I didn't have a lathe to turn the collars, otherwise I would be spitting them out in my garage and selling them!
The forward mounts could be made by hand.





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