Rim Lock Hole Position?


5 replies to this topic
  • Mr. Neutron

Posted November 30, 2011 - 09:18 AM

#1

Hey, All!!!

I'm replacing my front TUbliss setup with a conventional tube.

Currently, the holes for the valve stem & the rim lock are 180 degrees opposite each other. If memory serves me correctly, it seems as if a rim lock was more effective if it's positioned about 4 "spoke-spaces" from the valve stem. It seems like tire changes are slightly easier with the valve stem & rim lock this close to each other too, but then the wheel doesn't balance so well. :)

I'm not certain that balance is a huge factor in the riding I do, but what's the most effective position for a rim lock? :lol:

Added in EDIT: Is the position of the rim locks even important at all?

Jimmie

Edited by Diesel Goober, November 30, 2011 - 11:59 AM.
forgot something....


  • grayracer513

Posted November 30, 2011 - 12:06 PM

#2

Using a single rim lock, it's customary to place it 180 or nearly that relative to the valve stem for balance reasons. Back in the day, we usually used two locks on the rear of big displacement bikes, with the three holes at 120 from each other. That's not done so often these days.

I can see the logic being used to say that the lock is more effective close to the valve stem, but it seems to me that it's flawed. To assume that, you would need to believe that the tire was able to stretch significantly around the circumference of the rim from the anchor point, and that ain't gonna happen, really. It will either slip or not slip.

In any case, rim locks won't prevent the tube from crawling in the tire at extremely low pressures anyway. They just hold the tire on.

  • Mr. Neutron

Posted November 30, 2011 - 07:10 PM

#3

Thanks, Grayracer513!!! I appreciate your response, Sir! :lol:

I suppose I kinda "stress" over some of the dumbest things sometimes.... :ride:

One thing I've really liked about my TUbliss is that the little inner tube/bicycle tire deal in the middle really locks the tire to the rim tight. Stiffens up the sidewall a bit too. For some reason, with my TUbliss/Yamaha/Michelin MS3 Starcross combo, the tire pressure will leak down really quick. I've tried tire sealant, re-mounting my tire, trimming off every little manufacturing nib, cleaning everything almost to the point of being OCD about it, and it STILL leaks a couple of pounds (or more!) every half hour or so..... :cheers: Good thing it does stiffen up the sidewall; I'm usually down so much on pressure by the time I get back to the truck it's almost flat..... Dunno why it's like that. :) The Tubliss setup works flawless on the rear of the YZ, and did so on both wheels on my old KTM.... :banghead:

Anyway, I threw a rim lock in the existing hole, and tube. It now holds it's pressure very well, thank you.... :foul: :smirk:

Jimmie

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  • grayracer513

Posted November 30, 2011 - 09:53 PM

#4

Regarding the leak, did you ever take the wheel to a garage and dunk it in a tire tank to figure out just where it was leaking?

  • JPD855

Posted December 01, 2011 - 03:48 AM

#5

Thanks, Grayracer513!!! I appreciate your response, Sir! :lol:

One thing I've really liked about my TUbliss is that the little inner tube/bicycle tire deal in the middle really locks the tire to the rim tight. Stiffens up the sidewall a bit too. For some reason, with my TUbliss/Yamaha/Michelin MS3 Starcross combo, the tire pressure will leak down really quick. I've tried tire sealant, re-mounting my tire, trimming off every little manufacturing nib, cleaning everything almost to the point of being OCD about it, and it STILL leaks a couple of pounds (or more!) every half hour or so..... :cheers: Good thing it does stiffen up the sidewall; I'm usually down so much on pressure by the time I get back to the truck it's almost flat..... Dunno why it's like that. :) The Tubliss setup works flawless on the rear of the YZ, and did so on both wheels on my old KTM.... :banghead:


Jimmie


We had the same problem and learned it was due to the rim lock tightening sequence. This is the NEW process TUBLISS recomends and takes care of the FRONT leak issue. NOTE that the "KEY" is to ONLY FINGER TIGHTEN the rim lock untill after the RED Liners is inflated. If you tighten it first it pulls it too far into the drop center and causes the leak. ---Hope this helps!!!

1. Pull the valve core from the high pressure valve stems so the inner liner and tire both completely deflate.

2. Loosen the nut on the rim lock & then retighten to "FINGER TIGHT", so the top of the nut is even with the 10mm threads.

3. Break the tire completely off the bead of the rim, then start next to the rim lock and push the tire away from the rim so you can squirt soapy water into the drop center of the rim. Repeat this every few inches around BOTH SIDES of the wheel. Then bounce the wheel on the ground while rotating it so help distribute the soapy water inside the tire. The trick here is to get the RED LINER COMPLETELY WET WITH SOAPY WATER, AFTER IT IS INSIDE OF THE TIRE.

4. Re-inflate the inner bladder to 110-psi, and the tire to 15-psi.

5. LAST STEP - Torque the rim lock to 11 ft lbs. and your GOOD to GO!!

  • Mr. Neutron

Posted December 01, 2011 - 05:29 AM

#6

Wow, Great responses, Fellas!!! :banghead: Thanks for your help!! :lol:

Grayracer513, no, I never did dunk it in a tub of water. I simply lived with a tire pump & pressure gauge nearby when I went riding, & "hoped for the best" on longer rides. Like I said, the inner/high-pressure chamber of the TUbliss does a great job of keeping the tire from coming off the bead and/or slipping on the rim. It also makes the sidewalls just slightly stiffer, and the whole enchilada allows you to run with no air at all in the tire pressure chamber. It's not a "good ride", but lets ya make it back to the truck. :cheers:

JPD855, Thanks a lot for your help here! I plan on trying to get the TUbliss to seal again when I next change a front tire. I'll try doing it in the order you outlined here. Thanks for that!

I really would like to have my front wheel "TUbliss" again. I like the minimal stuff I carry for flat repairs with a TUbliss. I've only had 2 flats in several years of use; both were on the rear tire, and I actually didn't realize I had a puncture. They repair easy with one of those tire-plug kits made for quads.

All of the kits I've had on two different bikes have always worked really well, with the exception of my front wheel on my YZ. This is actually the first & only time I've ever tried tire sealant in a TUbliss. Never needed any Slime on the YZ's back tire, or on the KTM. :) To me, a cool thing was the fact that I was able to go back & forth between a knobby tire & a trials tire easily on the KTM. Mounted & remounted the trials tire & rear Dunlop knob several times each, and never had a problem getting those tires to seal.... Ahh, the good ole days..... :smirk:

Jimmie





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