Smallest Battery?


12 replies to this topic
  • jasonlion54

Posted November 24, 2011 - 12:36 PM

#1

I have a 2006 WR450F. It has different cams in it, so as a result, the E-Start doesn't work. I'm going to remove it to save weight. I occasionally run about 100 Watts of HID lighting.

I'd like to replace the stock battery with the smallest, lightest one that will still allow my lights to run when the bike is running. What is the minimum mAH I need?

  • ewr2004

Posted November 24, 2011 - 08:55 PM

#2

Simple solution, Shorai lithium battery.

  • jasonlion54

Posted November 24, 2011 - 10:25 PM

#3

I think the Shorai is more than I need. It costs over $100 and has enough juice to run the starter, which I don't need. I'm trying to find out the minimum I need to just keep the lights on.

  • Navaho6

Posted November 26, 2011 - 06:42 AM

#4

I don't have any knowledge of electricity and how your 100 watt light affects the equation but I use a 0.9lb TurnTech 2.5ah lithium battery in my '06. I've been using it for 2 years. The only time it has trouble cranking the bike is when the piston has stopped close to top dead center. Like the Shorai, it is not cheap.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted November 28, 2011 - 04:23 PM

#5

I have a 2006 WR450F. It has different cams in it, so as a result, the E-Start doesn't work. I'm going to remove it to save weight. I occasionally run about 100 Watts of HID lighting.

I'd like to replace the stock battery with the smallest, lightest one that will still allow my lights to run when the bike is running. What is the minimum mAH I need?


I have an 05... Did you put in the yz cams or did you go with the hot cams. The HotCams have no adverse affect on starting.

I think if you remove the estart, it will still be heavy. The steel framed WR's are pigs (i know this for a fact) and nobody expects for them to really be light. But, assuming you removed the starter, you would need something to plug the hole as well as to properly shunt the voltages working the starter, won't you?

100 watts of HID lighting will probably be about as bright as the sun. Are you really running that much? Or do you run Halogen lighting? I run the 55w HID kit from DDMTuning and its pretty good. That, plus a helmet light allows me to have pretty good vision at night.

You should be looking for a stator, not a battery. Your battery will go dead without the stator upgrade and the bike will run poorly and ultimately shut down on you. I have the trailtech stator. It powers the light and other stuff when the bike is running and will still charge the battery.

If you want a nice battery, then get a SHORAI. I have one and it works great. But without the stator upgrade, it would just be another dead battery when you run your 100w light setup.

  • ewr2004

Posted November 29, 2011 - 12:32 AM

#6

"The steel framed WR's are pigs (i know this for a fact) and nobody expects for them to really be light."

The weight difference between the tubular steel frame bikes and the aluminum frame bikes is less than 5 pounds.

What other nuggets of wisdom do you "know for a fact?"

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  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted November 29, 2011 - 11:45 AM

#7

"The steel framed WR's are pigs (i know this for a fact) and nobody expects for them to really be light."

The weight difference between the tubular steel frame bikes and the aluminum frame bikes is less than 5 pounds.

What other nuggets of wisdom do you "know for a fact?"


I know for a fact that I was not trying to compare the steel vs aluminum frames.

I know for a fact that I called it a "pig" for reasons other than the actual scale weight.

I know for a fact that I don't know what issues you have with what I said. :lol:

  • ewr2004

Posted November 29, 2011 - 02:54 PM

#8

"I know for a fact that I called it a "pig" for reasons other than the actual scale weight."

Oh, silly me! I just assumed that when someone calls the WR a "pig" that they are referring to its weight. Then when you went on the say "nobody expects for them to really be light" I again assumed you were referring to the weight.

But now that you've cleared this all up, and informed everyone that you were not referring to the weight, it all makes sense!

Right??

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted November 29, 2011 - 04:28 PM

#9

"I know for a fact that I called it a "pig" for reasons other than the actual scale weight."

Oh, silly me! I just assumed that when someone calls the WR a "pig" that they are referring to its weight. Then when you went on the say "nobody expects for them to really be light" I again assumed you were referring to the weight.

But now that you've cleared this all up, and informed everyone that you were not referring to the weight, it all makes sense!

Right??

Look... I own one of those bikes and have had it since 2005. I have legitimate reasons to call it a pig.

It "rides" heavy. Its scale weight is one thing, but the fact that its top heavy and slow turning makes it feel like a pig when other bikes, which weight about the same, feel lighter. Simply putting a Shorai battery in the wr will not make it feel any lighter. I say that because I have a shorai battery in mine and it still feels like a pig. Its not a "simple solution"

How heavy it feels when you are riding it is what really matters.

Don't get me wrong, I like the bike a lot, but I have to be honest and call it a pig (there... I said it again)

Why are you messing with me? You must have a light and nimble steel framed WR that was totally transformed by a new battery.

  • beezer

Posted November 30, 2011 - 09:39 AM

#10

I've owned an 03 and an 05 WR450's and they were pigs.

I have an 08 now that feels much lighter regardless of what the scale says.

  • FzerozeroT

Posted November 30, 2011 - 05:09 PM

#11

with a 12V 100W lighting kit you will be drawing 8.33 amps. Put simply, to run your lights for 1 hour without the motor running you will need an 8.33 Ah battery, and more like 12Ah if you don't want to kill the battery.

With the standard 25W (DC) stator you will have a 75W defecit requiring 6.25Amps from the battery, so an 8Ah battery might last an hour.

So you will need to go for a stator kit as mentioned above, I'm not sure of brand/quality, but as an example
http://www.electrosp...conversion.html
150W, plenty in reserve for the CDI etc, and all you need the battery for is to smooth power, so keep your standard battery, or put in a little scooter battery to save weight.

Background on all of this: the standard lighting is run from an AC loop on the standard stator which is I think around 40W (Edit: found an article that says 70W), HIDs require a DC source, on the standard bike all the DC is used for is to run the CDI and charge the battery for starting, the lighting circuit is isolated from the battery and so addition of a lighting circuit that will draw from the battery (and a switch) will be required.


BTW, I've got a steel framed '06, sure it's a pig, that must be why it's so fast in the mud :lol:

Edited by FzerozeroT, November 30, 2011 - 05:14 PM.
more conjecture


  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted November 30, 2011 - 07:24 PM

#12

with a 12V 100W lighting kit you will be drawing 8.33 amps. Put simply, to run your lights for 1 hour without the motor running you will need an 8.33 Ah battery, and more like 12Ah if you don't want to kill the battery.

With the standard 25W (DC) stator you will have a 75W defecit requiring 6.25Amps from the battery, so an 8Ah battery might last an hour.

So you will need to go for a stator kit as mentioned above, I'm not sure of brand/quality, but as an example
http://www.electrosp...conversion.html
150W, plenty in reserve for the CDI etc, and all you need the battery for is to smooth power, so keep your standard battery, or put in a little scooter battery to save weight.

Background on all of this: the standard lighting is run from an AC loop on the standard stator which is I think around 40W (Edit: found an article that says 70W), HIDs require a DC source, on the standard bike all the DC is used for is to run the CDI and charge the battery for starting, the lighting circuit is isolated from the battery and so addition of a lighting circuit that will draw from the battery (and a switch) will be required.


BTW, I've got a steel framed '06, sure it's a pig, that must be why it's so fast in the mud :lol:


Good advice. I got the trailtech stator and it works just fine. It only outputs DC voltage via the regulator so I had no choice but to do the HID conversion (which turned out to be a great choice)

I've got power to spare. But I don't run night race quality lights. I can ride at night, but not race.

  • jasonlion54

Posted December 01, 2011 - 05:14 PM

#13

Sorry, guys, type-o in my first post. It's an 07, so aluminum frame.

The stator has had the floating ground mod, so I think it puts out about 100w?

I run two 35w HID's, one on the bike, one on the helmet.

I don't need the lights to run when the bike is off.

Since there is no starter, the battery will only be used as a buffer, not to actually power anything. I've heard the system will not run properly without a battery, so I just need something to take it's place while the bike is running. I don't know if the wattage of the lights even factors into it.

Keep the info coming guys. :lol:




 
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