2012 wr450



716 replies to this topic
  • Corkster

Posted July 19, 2012 - 02:30 AM


Wonder if that is just another name for adjusting the idle RPM which is adjustable in the Power Programmer.

Also figured I would put in how my starting is:
Cold - starts first time every time. Even without the cold start button
Warm - Starts about 90% of the time first time.
Hot - Starts probably 40% of the time if I am lucky.

Generally when I hit the kill switch then restart I don't have any problems. Now if I stall it then try and restart when hot that's when the battle begins.


Hmmm

Cold - wont start at all drives me nuts
Warm - starts about 50%
Hot - starts about 90%
Popping on overrun

Exact symptoms of a lean pilot jet on a carbie bike.

We need an idle mixture adjustment Yamaha. I love everything else about this bike but really - FI that doesn't start is inexcusable. My 09 WR always started first time every time, my FI road bike always starts first time every time. What is going on with my 2012 WR ????

  • MaxPower

Posted July 19, 2012 - 06:41 AM


Hmmm

Cold - wont start at all drives me nuts
Warm - starts about 50%
Hot - starts about 90%
Popping on overrun


Not to say that correct fuel metering isn't imperative to getting the most from an engine, but I had a RMZ 450 that was a booger to get lit when it was hot and we did what ever we could with altering the stock ECU. We tried a Black Ops Coil in frustration and it not only helped that issue but the bike ran better overall by a good amount

But it does sound like your too lean .

  • DeepPurplishBlue

Posted July 19, 2012 - 09:20 AM


Yes special tender is required which brings up a point that my buddy told me about with the Betas he sells that peolple option to get the Shorai battery.The charging curcuit on bikes keeps dumping in 14 volts and ruins them.Thinking of just getting a higher CCA lead acid unit I gotta dig deeper with this BS starting issue. All 3 of my last 4t Huskies started just by looking at the button.They werent FI but youd think it would be a no brainer over a carb.One even started itself in the middle of the night but thats a whole other story


No this is not correct... the Shorai batteries have circuitry in them to cope with this exact situation. Lithium batteries require carefully controlled charging or they will fail quickly. They can even catch fire. Do you really think Shorai would be stupid enough to not build their batteries with this protection? They would be having a warranty issue with every battery they sold!

  • BFox

Posted July 19, 2012 - 10:02 AM


No this is not correct... the Shorai batteries have circuitry in them to cope with this exact situation. Lithium batteries require carefully controlled charging or they will fail quickly. They can even catch fire. Do you really think Shorai would be stupid enough to not build their batteries with this protection? They would be having a warranty issue with every battery they sold!

So the Betas that customers are bringing back to his shop are a figment of his imagination.Ive seen the spent Shorai batteries on the work bench.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted July 19, 2012 - 02:52 PM


Yes special tender is required which brings up a point that my buddy told me about with the Betas he sells that peolple option to get the Shorai battery.The charging curcuit on bikes keeps dumping in 14 volts and ruins them.Thinking of just getting a higher CCA lead acid unit I gotta dig deeper with this BS starting issue. All 3 of my last 4t Huskies started just by looking at the button.They werent FI but youd think it would be a no brainer over a carb.One even started itself in the middle of the night but thats a whole other story

Hmmm... those Beta's must put out a special Euro-Spanish voltage that isn't produced here. I have a shorai in my wr450, in my ktm450xcf and also in my big bmw touring bike. No failures so far.

  • BFox

Posted July 19, 2012 - 03:04 PM


Hmmm... those Beta's must put out a special Euro-Spanish voltage that isn't produced here. I have a shorai in my wr450, in my ktm450xcf and also in my big bmw touring bike. No failures so far.

Euro Italian actually.

  • Corkster

Posted July 19, 2012 - 04:59 PM


Hmmm... those Beta's must put out a special Euro-Spanish voltage that isn't produced here. I have a shorai in my wr450, in my ktm450xcf and also in my big bmw touring bike. No failures so far.


x2

Euro Italian actually.


Say no more!!

  • A X E

Posted July 20, 2012 - 09:29 PM


I have a Shorai battery in my Hypermotard for the last nine months. Appears to be very well made and has plenty of power to crank Ove an 1100cc twin withe ease. Amazing how light they are compared to traditional batteries. If it holds up over the long term, it will be a real winner.

  • Bandit9

Posted July 21, 2012 - 03:58 PM


I just put a Shorai on my 09 today and was dumbfounded as to how light it was compared to the heavy stocker. It has way more cranking power too. Me likey. Shorai gets the Bandit's seal of approval.

  • A X E

Posted July 21, 2012 - 06:27 PM


Has anyone raised their forks in the triple clamp to lower the front of the bike some? I want to get a little more weight on the front of the bike so I can soften up the shock spring preloaded to get my rear sag set a little better. The problem is the fork tube is tapered and if it is raised more than about 1.5 mm it will start to lose contact area on the tapered surface and may slip. I think I need about 5 mm up to get the bike leveled with correct sag. it may hold just fine, but not sure.

I have the suspension set up pretty well, but I know there is more to be had. I want to get rid of that front end wallow at speed.

I was gonna try this before I respring it and start spending more money. Any thoughts?

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Aardvarkzoo

Posted August 01, 2012 - 08:31 PM


Has anyone raised their forks in the triple clamp to lower the front of the bike some? I want to get a little more weight on the front of the bike so I can soften up the shock spring preloaded to get my rear sag set a little better. The problem is the fork tube is tapered and if it is raised more than about 1.5 mm it will start to lose contact area on the tapered surface and may slip. I think I need about 5 mm up to get the bike leveled with correct sag. it may hold just fine, but not sure.

I have the suspension set up pretty well, but I know there is more to be had. I want to get rid of that front end wallow at speed.

I was gonna try this before I respring it and start spending more money. Any thoughts?


Dropping the forks in the triples has nothing to do with setting rear sag or leveling your bike.. You can drop them as a personal preference but not in relation to what you are taking about.

  • xcountryfreak

Posted August 03, 2012 - 03:53 PM


If you drop the triple clamps you will be putting more weight on the front, however, you will also decrease rake which will make the steering quicker promoting oversteer and head shake at speed. Are you experiencing wallow or head shake? My definition of Wallow is when the steering is sluggish and usually happens on loose surfaces like sand. It's unusual to have wallow at speed on hard surfaces. It usually happens at lower speeds in sand. If you are having violent shaking of the bars at speed, that's head shake and raising the forks in the clamps will make it worse. The WR has a lot of weight up high which can cause wallow especially on soft surfaces. Increasing the rake can help alot on a WR. If the forks are all the way down in the clamps already, you can increase your race sag to kick the front end out some more and increase rake. That will help with the wallow. The WR450F is a heavy bike. All that weight is going to affect the handling. I recommend putting your WR on a diet. A light weight battery helps as well as removing all the lights, AIS, stock exhaust, etc. Try riding with 1/3 a tank of gas to see if you notice a difference. You can also lower the radiators which helped allot on my WR but it didn't help with the wallowing. I always had to push the forks down in the clamps for sand tracks to make it rideable.

Regarding the taper of the legs. You can raise the forks to the point where the taper begins but don't go past it. You want the entire clamp making full contact with the fork legs at all times. I'm not sure on the new 450 but on the old WR's you could go at least to the second line. I think that's about 10mm.

  • xcountryfreak

Posted August 03, 2012 - 04:08 PM


Why didn't Yamaha put in the newer, reward slanting engine in this bike and just de-tune it a bit. Makes me wounder if they are going to get rid of that engine in the YZ.

My guess is they had a bunch of YZ250F frames they wanted to get rid of an a bunch of the old 450's that were never sold. I don't think they will ever admit defeat and get rid of the backwards engine but they will build whatever it takes to clear out their inventory without having to re-tool. We have seen for years how far Yamaha (and the other Japanese Manufacturers) will go to keep from re-tooling their factories. When they came out with the backwards engine 450 nobody wanted to buy the old engine so this was a great way to get rid of them. They could still use the other components on other models but needed a way to move the frames and engines. Looks like it has worked! And it's (12 WR450F) a great bike to boot! The old style 450 engine has a great reputation as the most reliable 450 out there.

  • MANIAC998

Posted August 04, 2012 - 03:36 AM


I think that Yamaha will admit defeat within a few years, and go back to the more conventional engine layout. But like you mentioned, it'll be a few years, so they can lower there inventory of this weird engine configuration. The new engine is too polarizing. Either people love it, or absolutely HATE IT!!! Have you noticed how much work it takes just to get to the air filter? That's a huge no-no in my book!!! Sometimes Yamaha amazes me at what they were thinking!
Maniac

  • pdrhound

Posted August 04, 2012 - 08:46 AM


drdfblackm

Grand Prix Motorsports got 3 in on Tuesday. Located south of denver at c-470 and Santa fe.


coyote will save you with lower sales tax..........

  • WR 911

Posted August 06, 2012 - 01:10 PM


Starting issues:
1. Buy a Yamaha programmer and a programmable ECU.
2. Open it up, buy a FMF exhaust and new throttle stop.
3. Richen the mixture all around.
4. Use your kick starter, the battery is only for memory and emergency starting.
I started my motor on one kick at 3500' with these mods. The starter motor douse not turn fast enough for good starting and takes voltage from the ignition system.

  • Bandit9

Posted August 06, 2012 - 01:16 PM


Replace battery with Shorai, plus that other stuff above and you will never use your kickstarter again.

  • zuch95701

Posted August 06, 2012 - 08:24 PM


Replace battery with Shorai, plus that other stuff above and you will never use your kickstarter again.


If you do what i did and take the bike to the dealer and have then adjust the idle circuit with the yamaha FI management tool it starts first time with the button almost every time with the stock battery. You can not adjust the idle with the power programer.

  • tomerb

Posted August 06, 2012 - 08:48 PM


If you do what i did and take the bike to the dealer and have then adjust the idle circuit with the Yamaha FI management tool it starts first time with the button almost every time with the stock battery. You can not adjust the idle with the power programmer.


What was the A/F ratio before they adjusted it and what did they adjust it to?
Mine is not rich at idle at cold start up. Yours may be different than mine. When I start mine when its cold it starts right up with the cold start knob pulled. If I push it in too soon it will die from being to lean. If I leave it pulled for about one minute then push it in its ready to run. When its warmed up if I crack the throttle five degrees it starts on the first or second push of the button 95% of the time. I'm running the FMF map and have stock exhaust with pee shooter removed and my air box is uncorked.

  • zuch95701

Posted August 07, 2012 - 11:23 AM


What was the A/F ratio before they adjusted it and what did they adjust it to?
Mine is not rich at idle at cold start up. Yours may be different than mine. When I start mine when its cold it starts right up with the cold start knob pulled. If I push it in too soon it will die from being to lean. If I leave it pulled for about one minute then push it in its ready to run. When its warmed up if I crack the throttle five degrees it starts on the first or second push of the button 95% of the time. I'm running the FMF map and have stock exhaust with pee shooter removed and my air box is uncorked.


Dont have my starting A/F all the service manager said was he has found they are rich when he puts the sniffer in them. Im running the FMF pipe, map etc. Mine wouldn't fire up cold, and wouldn't start consistently hot either. Since the change it starts almost every time.




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.