2012 wr450



716 replies to this topic
  • BoiseBee

Posted April 08, 2012 - 08:25 AM


Calm down.
More dirt on the filter is proof of more air to the motor.
Dirt doesn't just 'find it's way in', it's sucked in with the surrounding air.
The Port Tube (restrictor) is designed to let air in only at certain pulse frequencies.
This is how it limits air intake.
It has nothing to do with the opening size, but with the tuned length of the port tube.
Removing the Port Tube lowers the resonant frequency of the Air box, allowing air to enter over a wider range of pulse frequencies.

Removing just the restrictor alone will do NOTHING to improve performance.
You must do all mods together as a 'system' or you will be wasting your time.

You can fight it all you want, but if you want a clean running motor with the best possible throttle response at all rpms, you have to remove the restictor.


+1

I use a K&N air filter just because the things are (in my opinion) so easy to clean and maintain, so I service the filter after every 1-2 rides anyway, and I have seen that it is a bit dirtier now that the airbox port tube is gone, but I also found a noticeable difference in performance.... definitely worth more frequent air filter cleanings.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 08, 2012 - 08:45 AM


+1

I use a K&N air filter just because the things are (in my opinion) so easy to clean and maintain, so I service the filter after every 1-2 rides anyway, and I have seen that it is a bit dirtier now that the airbox port tube is gone, but I also found a noticeable difference in performance.... definitely worth more frequent air filter cleanings.


A word of warning for K&N filter users:
K&N only uses the 'coarse dust test' to test their filter quality. This is useless for off-road applications.

"We design our air filters to provide superior filtration of the contaminants that can harm your engine while maximizing the airflow characteristics of the filter in question. The ability of an air filter to protect your engine is generally measured in accordance with testing procedure ISO 5011. We subject a sample of our filter designs to this test procedure using Coarse Test Dust, which includes particles ranging in size from less than 5.5 microns to 176 microns. As a point of reference, a human hair is approximately 50 microns in diameter. The result of the above test procedure is a specific air filtration efficiency number. This efficiency number represents the percentage of test dust retained by the filter and thereby kept out of an engine. Our goal is to design our air filters to achieve maximum airflow while targeting overall filtration efficiency at 98%."

If they were to do a 'fine dust test', which is 3.5 -15 microns, the filter would fail every time. That's why they don't do it!

It's about AIR FLOW for K&N, not FILTERING QUALITY.

They admit to a minimum of a 2% INCREASE in dirt passed when using their filters.



http://www.bobistheo...er/airtest3.htm
[color=#000000]Did you see the dirty 2nd filter? Well that is the result of experiment #1. The test subject was the K&N air filter. Yes it let many particles pass through. The K&N was tested for 501 miles. For those that are curious, the test was conducted in Western WA state during the last week of November and December. All of the driving was on public paved roads. The climate here is damp during this time of the year and definitely not dirty or dusty. This is probably the best case scenario in all honesty. I was shocked by the look of the 2nd filter. I drive this car 6-8K miles a year. Many have asked if the black left on the filter is dirt or is it possibly oil residue. It is indeed dirt and not oil. The same type of deposits were left using a paper Napa filter which has no oil on it at all. That should be the end of that theory. [/color]

http://www.ridesideb...read.php?t=4528

Edited by Krannie, April 08, 2012 - 08:47 AM.


  • BoiseBee

Posted April 08, 2012 - 11:02 AM


A word of warning for K&N filter users:
K&N only uses the 'coarse dust test' to test their filter quality. This is useless for off-road applications.


Wow! Good info Krannie. Glad I haven't ordered one for the 2012 yet, but I did use one for several years on my YZ450 and never had any issues... maybe because of how often I clean it? huh.

What filter would you recommend for the new bike? The stocker seems to be pretty decent and is fairly easy to clean and re-oil.... I have used the notoil in the past and they were a pain in the azz to clean.... ideas?

Thanks for the heads up.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 08, 2012 - 02:43 PM


Wow! Good info Krannie. Glad I haven't ordered one for the 2012 yet, but I did use one for several years on my YZ450 and never had any issues... maybe because of how often I clean it? huh.

What filter would you recommend for the new bike? The stocker seems to be pretty decent and is fairly easy to clean and re-oil.... I have used the notoil in the past and they were a pain in the azz to clean.... ideas?

Thanks for the heads up.


I believe the OEM filters to be the best for the motor.
I use UNI as my secondary (I keep clean and oiled filters ready to go, so I will change them more often).
No Toil is easy: put the dirty filters in the washing machine, throw in some Oxiclean, and you're done!

  • 2in2out

Posted April 08, 2012 - 05:12 PM


Sat on the '12 WR450 today.

Observations:

  • Pegs are high. Very high. Just like the YZ250F.
  • Seat is very low. 2+ inches lower than a stock '11.
  • Cockpit is CRAMPED with the stock bars. I found it difficult to get my elbows up in a natural position.
  • Shrouds stick out a ridiculous amount! It's almost like a clown-car they stick out so much.......way past the forks....I don't get it.....even farther than the YZ's. They will catch trees and brush very badly.


Krannie,

I respect your opinions, but I must reply on the terms of a "short, fat guy" (5'8" 230, inseam: nunya business!!!).

Pegs are high. Very high. Just like the YZ250F.
- I liked them. Made me feel like I was on a mountain bike, or a rider in the steeple chase.

Seat is very low. 2+ inches lower than a stock '11.
- I can finally get my leg over without standing on the low side peg and stand.

Cockpit is CRAMPED with the stock bars. I found it difficult to get my elbows up in a natural position.
- I found the bars to be low. Definitely need risers.

Shrouds stick out a ridiculous amount! It's almost like a clown-car they stick out so much.......way past the forks....I don't get it.....even farther than the YZ's. They will catch trees and brush very badly.
- On my '08 after I put the IMS tank on, and YZ shrouds, it felt even worse. I think it's somewhat of a matter of perception to how wide they are. It has a slim tank. When the bigger tanks come, I bet the feeling of the shrouds being wide dissipates. It didn't feel wide on my knees when I was in the saddle.

Again, these are observations from a "short, fat k....oooh, cake!!!!

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 08, 2012 - 07:33 PM


Again, these are observations from a "short, fat k....oooh, cake!!!!


:thumbsup:

  • WR 911

Posted April 09, 2012 - 06:32 PM


Wow! Good info Krannie. Glad I haven't ordered one for the 2012 yet, but I did use one for several years on my YZ450 and never had any issues... maybe because of how often I clean it? huh.

What filter would you recommend for the new bike? The stocker seems to be pretty decent and is fairly easy to clean and re-oil.... I have used the notoil in the past and they were a pain in the azz to clean.... ideas?

Thanks for the heads up.

I use Notoil with much success. I don’t use there cleaner. I can buy a big box of TSP for the same price of there one little bottle (It’s the same stuff). I also mix in a tablespoon of Tide to help degrease the seal (Vaseline works well and it cheep). Let it soak for 10 minutes and the dirt falls rite out. Rinse with hot water, squeeze and hang. It always comes out perfectly clean. If you start using Notoil for the first time you have to start with a perfectly clean filter. If there is any old petroleum residue on the filter it won’t work. Buy a second filter (stock or twin air) so you will always have a fresh filter ready to go.
Keep it clean!!!!

  • Corkster

Posted April 10, 2012 - 01:47 PM


I took my airbox snorkel out breifly and the amount of dirt that gets into the filter cancels out any such improvement made...
I would highly discourage the removal of this item! there is no gain from this, the snorkel is big enough to let the perfect amount of air in....
unless you never ride hard enough to spin up dirt or youre strictly riding on the road, this so called "MOD" is IDIOTIC.


This has been an issue since the 07 model. Solutions:

1) Don't worry about it unless you are doing long dusty rides; or
2) Use a chux, filter sock etc.; or
3) Use a holesaw to cut three holes in the bottom panel of the airbox - this allows airflow in from both ends of the airbox and gives an even dirt pattern on the filter. This was covered back in 07 in the 250 section of the forum. Just remember to put gaffer tape across the holes if you are going for a ride with creek crossings!

Edited by Corkster, April 10, 2012 - 01:48 PM.


  • matthewbosworth

Posted April 10, 2012 - 04:05 PM


This has been an issue since the 07 model. Solutions:

1) Don't worry about it unless you are doing long dusty rides; or
2) Use a chux, filter sock etc.; or
3) Use a holesaw to cut three holes in the bottom panel of the airbox - this allows airflow in from both ends of the airbox and gives an even dirt pattern on the filter. This was covered back in 07 in the 250 section of the forum. Just remember to put gaffer tape across the holes if you are going for a ride with creek crossings!


I have recently cut(with a torch and hot blade) the bottom portion of the snorkel in half and at an angle(facing the filter) so that air is sucked into the middle of the filter instead of just the lower portion. the top of the snorkel is stll intact and keeps out sand/dirt/water
before the bottom of the air filter would only get dirty now it's much more even!
great fix instead of just doing completely away with something that protects your engine from major damage...

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted April 10, 2012 - 06:06 PM


I don't get it. I just took out the entire snorkel and the filter seems to get fairly evenly covered when it gets dirty. :thumbsup:

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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 10, 2012 - 07:10 PM


I don't get it. I just took out the entire snorkel and the filter seems to get fairly evenly covered when it gets dirty. :thumbsup:


That's cause you are normal.

  • Corkster

Posted April 10, 2012 - 09:32 PM


Only seems to be an issue with long WOT rides in very dusty conditions - if you aren't having a problem then don't do anything!

Edited by Corkster, April 10, 2012 - 09:33 PM.


  • BFox

Posted April 12, 2012 - 03:43 AM


ITS HERE!!!!

  • msgbean

Posted April 12, 2012 - 06:32 AM


Just picked mine up yesterday. I'm now waiting for a pipe and ECU. I can't wait either because it won't even start with the e-start when it is cold. I assume because it is too lean.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted April 12, 2012 - 06:42 AM


So has it turned out that on the 2012 after reprogramming with the comp ecu that starting is no longer an issue?

  • msgbean

Posted April 12, 2012 - 07:18 AM


[color=#282828]The best thing to come from the new ECU and improved mapping over stock is the starting. Before it was such a bear to start that I ended up kicking it every time because it was much faster.... several of the initial press reviews spoke of this same thing. Now with the correct mapping the WR fires up immediately. I purposely stalled the bike a couple of times after riding for several minutes, pulled in the clutch, pressed the magic button, and it fired right up and I was down the trail.[/color]

[color=#282828]According to BoiseBee it solved the issue.[/color]

Edited by msgbean, April 12, 2012 - 07:19 AM.


  • BoiseBee

Posted April 12, 2012 - 07:28 AM


[color=#282828]According to BoiseBee it solved the issue.[/color]


Yes, issue solved.

I have also read of some trying to start the bike without pulling out the "cold start" button on the EFI throttle body. When the bike is cold, I have found the cold start button is a must....

  • Lumberjack450

Posted April 12, 2012 - 07:31 AM


Got mine yesterday. Swapped ECU and mapped it, but how do you install the throttle stop? I feel like a dumbass...

  • 426Braap

Posted April 12, 2012 - 05:32 PM


Got mine yesterday. Swapped ECU and mapped it, but how do you install the throttle stop? I feel like a dumbass...


Congrats dude! Its located where the throtle cables come into the throtle housing at the bottom of the throtle body. On mine it was a security torx bolt (its the torx with the little hole in the center) I believe its a #3 or #4. Once I had the right tool, it came out easily. Pull the torx out and replace with the Yami part or ace hardwear part. Good luck!

Edited by 426Braap, April 12, 2012 - 05:33 PM.


  • Lumberjack450

Posted April 12, 2012 - 06:52 PM


Congrats dude! Its located where the throtle cables come into the throtle housing at the bottom of the throtle body. On mine it was a security torx bolt (its the torx with the little hole in the center) I believe its a #3 or #4. Once I had the right tool, it came out easily. Pull the torx out and replace with the Yami part or ace hardwear part. Good luck!


Okay I thought so... do you have to remove the subframe in order to access it?

Broke it in today, went for a little putt in the desert and this thing rides like a dream!




 
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