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2012 wr450


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My issue with the new bike is it's not new enough over a properly "setup" 07-11 WR450 justify the price, if I had to buy new right now I think the KTM 450/500's are where I would spend my money.

If you are starting with a clean sheet of paper why not do:

6 speed tranny

Lighter Chassis

Black Wheels or bring the Aussie Colors here

What about a WR300 to compete with the KTM 300 XC

To be honest I am a huge Yamaha fan but starting to feel like a second class citizen (WR Enduro owner). Yamaha had 6 years to provide us Enduro guys with an off-road weapon but instead gave us a small change that should have been done in 2007-08.

KTM seems to be listening to the industry and making models that people want whereas I feel like the Japanese are listening less and less.

Edited by o313
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Well I just bought an 09 WR450 that is plated and has 500 miles on it for 4700. It is like new. Pick it up next week. I would have had to wait until the 12's hit the used market before I could get one with a plate on it already. I snagged some SSS KYB's and Triple clamp off an 06YZ450 part out today too.

I'm going to use the money I didn't spend on a 12 for a 2011 Gas Gas300 for Enduros. Then I will have it covered.

Enjoy the 12's and work kinks out for us.

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My issue with the new bike is it's not new enough over a properly "setup" 07-11 WR450 justify the price, if I had to buy new right now I think the KTM 450/500's are where I would spend my money

Whaaaat?? There is no way to "set up" a 2011 WR to handle like the new chassis does on the 2012, and then.... the FI is absolutely amazing as well as the new KYB suspension.... The new 2012 is only $300 more than the 2011 (retail to retail) and it is light years ahead in performance.... you would have to spend mega bucks to make the two bike's comparable, and then.... yeah... maybe you should have just bought a KTM 450/500.

Buy a 2012, spend the $400 to uncork it, and let er rip. You'll still be into it a grand less than a KTM and you'll have a more reliable machine. JMO.

Edited by BoiseBee
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Well I just bought an 09 WR450 that is plated and has 500 miles on it for 4700. It is like new. Pick it up next week. I would have had to wait until the 12's hit the used market before I could get one with a plate on it already. I snagged some SSS KYB's and Triple clamp off an 06YZ450 part out today too.

I'm going to use the money I didn't spend on a 12 for a 2011 Gas Gas300 for Enduros. Then I will have it covered.

Enjoy the 12's and work kinks out for us.

You can get a 2011 gg300 for less than 4grand (new or used)? Where's that at? Not to mention the forks u just bought. Just wondering.

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After an ECU and pipe it always starts like a champ with one exception. If I come to a stop and dump the clutch or stall it some how it has trouble with the E-start but fires first kick with kick starter. If I come to a stop and let it idle for a few seconds it has no trouble starting with the E-start.

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Like Bean said.... after the ECU upgrade and pipe, and a few hours of break in on the motor, the electric start works fine. Mine even starts right up after a stall.... I haven't noticed any issues with hot-starting. I still love everything about this bike, and can't find much to complain about. I know some have issues with the weight, but it really doesn't feel heavy on the trail, and I'm a big dude anyway, so I can throw it around just fine.

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You can get a 2011 gg300 for less than 4grand (new or used)? Where's that at? Not to mention the forks u just bought. Just wondering.

I included sales tax on the 2012 WR price b/c I plate my 450 bikes and have to register with DMV. $8k plus TTL IS $9k Race bikes I don't register, so no tax on the GasGas. That where the $1000-1500 swing is.

Forks were $200 and Clamps $30 off TT classifieds. Need a 06YZ450 caliper now. I had those forks on a YZ and they are awesome and worth every penny, I already have the right springs, just a $150 revalve and $50 caliper and I will be set for $430. Niiiice upgrade. I sold a bunch of YZ parts and I will sell the regular WR forks, clamps, and caliper, once the SSS forks are installed. I probably won't spend anything out of my pocket for the swap in the end.

Man with dirt bike addition must be frugal.....

I sent you a PM on the Gas Gas.

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Whaaaat?? There is no way to "set up" a 2011 WR to handle like the new chassis does on the 2012, and then.... the FI is absolutely amazing as well as the new KYB suspension.... The new 2012 is only $300 more than the 2011 (retail to retail) and it is light years ahead in performance.... you would have to spend mega bucks to make the two bike's comparable, and then.... yeah... maybe you should have just bought a KTM 450/500.

Buy a 2012, spend the $400 to uncork it, and let er rip. You'll still be into it a grand less than a KTM and you'll have a more reliable machine. JMO.

x2

So you guys that have these how are they starting?

Sucks - only real negative. Does anyone have one that starts first time? I have a pipe and ECU and it is still a PITA

Edited by Corkster
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Mine doesnt. Only have maybe 3 hours on it.If hot the button works fine. Trick I found for cold is hold throttle wide open and kick a few times then release and will fire on second or third kick

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Mine starts with the first push of the button every time, though it wasn't like that in the beginning. I think the richer FMF map programmed in the comp ECU made the biggest difference. At first I had to blip the throttle and it would take about three stabs of the button but after the upgrades I don't even use the cold start button or twist the throttle.

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Mine will typically start right away when the bike has been sitting for any length of time or overnight. Keep in mind, for me in Arizona, that has meant 65-90+ degrees so far this year (so not exactly cold). However, when I am riding and the bike is warmed up it has been a mixed bag so far. A lot of times when I am on the trail and stop the bike while it is warm or hot, I have to pull the cold start knob out and it will crank right over and I can immediately push the knob back in and the bike will idle fine. This seems a bit random, but I would say it is 70/30 pulling knob vs not pulling knob out. Also, they couldn't have found a more cumbersome location for the knob located behind the frame trying to get at it with your gloves on............better yet, stalled on an incline trying to hold the dam bike up.

This did not seem to get better when I went from the stock ecu to the comp ecu. In fact, the change for me with a stock can and PMB insert was subtle overall, but noticeable with the recommended stock can woods map included with the comp ecu. IMO, I think the only way to resolve this issue is at the intake or throttle body (maybe some air bleed screws) and it will not be adjustable in the ecu, as the manual states the ecu only affects things above idle, which I assume to mean also the starting. May not be the case, but with my experience with two other FI motors, this seems to be a limitation in programmability and a shitty one at that.

Out!

Edited by A X E
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I was flipping through the manual tonight to see if I could identify any other possible issues related to the starting when warm issue. While it could be a host of things, it may also be possible that the throttle position sensor (TPS) might not be set correctly. I did not see any reference to air bleed valves on the throttle body, so that theory may not be applicable to this unit.

They also state on page 8-8 under the NOTICE heading that you are not supposed to loosen the throttle valve stopper screw or loss of performance may occur. While I can't be sure, the image appears to be what we commonly refer to as the throttle limiting screw and I guess we have all loosened them, so I can't figure out the significance.

On page 1-31, it does note that starting a warm engine or at high altitude may require the throttle to be opened by 1-2 degrees (the marker on the throttle cable housing represents 5 degrees). Also on page 1-31 item 2 under starting a cold engine indicates there is a neutral indicator light and if it doesn't illuminate you need to have the dealer check the electrical circuit. I sure as hell have not ever seen a neutral light on mine, perhaps it is only for bikes in some countries.

Finally, the low fuel light comes on at exactly 0.79 gallons, not the 0.5 gallons I estimated and certainly not 0.8 gallons, just in case you were interested in the details.

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That is the subframe not the frame.

Actually, it was the frame. And I was kind of splitting hairs. The point is that the subframe mounts to a new location that is NOT on the YZ250F frame.

IOW, you couldn't just buy a YZ250F frame to replace yours if it was damaged.

trailhead ?

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I included sales tax on the 2012 WR price b/c I plate my 450 bikes and have to register with DMV. $8k plus TTL IS $9k Race bikes I don't register, so no tax on the GasGas. That where the $1000-1500 swing is.

Forks were $200 and Clamps $30 off TT classifieds. Need a 06YZ450 caliper now. I had those forks on a YZ and they are awesome and worth every penny, I already have the right springs, just a $150 revalve and $50 caliper and I will be set for $430. Niiiice upgrade. I sold a bunch of YZ parts and I will sell the regular WR forks, clamps, and caliper, once the SSS forks are installed. I probably won't spend anything out of my pocket for the swap in the end.

Man with dirt bike addition must be frugal.....

I sent you a PM on the Gas Gas.

You STOLE those SSS forks! You still using that guy in Texas for suspension work?
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Yep. Shaggy with Straightline Suspension is my guy. He did the SSS forks on my YZ250 that was incredible. The thing I like about him is that after 8 bikes, he nails it first time. That is a good thing.

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I have a 2011 yz450, and I understand they are very different bikes. I know that the yz450 guys have found that when you are trying to start it when hot, it helps to give it just the slightest crack of the throttle, barely any at all. It usually fires right up.

Anyone try that with one of the FI WR450's to see if it helps with starting at all?

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