As usual Red is on target. I'm using a Trailtech Vector Speedometer. I just installed a set of Highway Dirtbikes Handguards, they are awesome. I have a weird bolt pattern on my bar clamps so I ended up having to make my own top clamp as HDB didn't accomodate my funky spacing. I'm mounting my Vector to the top clamp just like the HDB system does. I'm doing a homebrew LED dash built into my top clamp, still in progress. I ditched my factory ignition switch for a very small 2 wire one since I don't have the fork lock option anymore. I drilled and tapped a couple of holes in the front face of the top triple to remount the stock XR headlight bracketry, I am also fabbing up a small bracket to mount to the bottom triple to hold the bottom of the plastic headlight cover/numberplate. I built my own turn signal mounts, the bolts are on the sides of the RM triples versus the front on the XR's so the L configuration isn't what I needed. It is just a flat plate with a slotted hole on about a 30° angle to locate the turn signals. I'll take a few closeup pictures and post up so you can see what I'm talking about later on tonight. All in all a pretty simple swap, but lots of little details that have to be taken care of. I am a tinker by nature and like to build stuff. Most of this could have been done more simply, but where is the fun in that?

I suspect the reason that All Balls stopped listing the bearing set is because they were not a plug and play operation. As I found out, you have to do some creative problem solving to get them to work. I am pretty sure that they still sell the bearing set as they were used in numerous other applications. I think they just removed the XRL/RM option from the catalog. Having gone that route, I would probably opt for the custom stem if I were to do it again.

To answer Taco's question. It may have been easier to use CRFX forks, as you could then maintain the speedo. The Honda forks are smaller diameter than the 49mm RM fork legs... The RM forks are about the largest diameter OEM forks that you will find.
I think in the end, you can use just about any set of forks that you can readilly get your hands on. Granted, you may muck up the handiling characteristics of the bike if you end up altering thefront end geometry too much. I used the RM forks because I got them for a killer deal. Worse case scenario, you have to have a custom stem built for the swap.

I dont notice much of a change in steering.It seems steers a bit "quicker" than previously, but that could well be a product of less twist in the forks. I had a bit of headshake at speed previously... has not changed... she'll still make me pucker tight every once in a while when I get going faster than I should in the loose stuff. The forks do make the rear end seem marginal though when you flog the bike in the rough. I am pulling the shock off this weekend... ScaleJockey's gonna work some magic on it. Fresh seals, oil and a rethought valve stack...

And a little pixie dust...

I switched my handle to XR650LANE somehow that is supposed to help me get my project done faster I think.

I'd love to know what you end up with for your shim stack in this shock. I did an oil change on mine when I upgraded my spring, but didn't change any other parts. Everything looked great inside, but my bike has relatively low miles 6K, but is a 2001 model.

Does it matter where the shims go on the compression side?

What change does this make on the performance of the shock?

Thanks for sharing,

I did a KX450F fork swap on my XRR, and it was very easy. The pin was the same size in the lower tree, and I made up a small shim for the upper. Bolted right up. I did have to trim the fender bolt holes a little though.

Your bike looks great Wingnut! What year forks are you those on your Hondasaki?

Does it matter where the shims go on the compression side?

What change does this make on the performance of the shock?

Thanks for sharing,