I have a 2011 Husaberg 390 FE, a mechanic told me the best way to solve the
overheating problem is to change the exhaust, this will allow free flow as the stock exhaust is the main
problem for the overheating issue, any comments on this or advice?

Welcome to ThumperTalk.

When you get a chance, do a 'Search' on ThumperTalk and www.husaberg.org.  All bikes will overheat in slow going conditions.  The first and perhaps best remedy to start with is a radiator fan.

no air = over heat. wont the ktm fans fit on your bike ?

For sure add the FE fan kit.

An aftermarket exhaust may help as well, but the 2011 shouldn't be too bad.  The 2009 and some 2010 had really restrictive exhausts, but some were the KTM exhaust that isn't so bad.

Also find out what map is installed in the ECU.  The stock map runs lean.  Have your dealer load the competition map.

Also use injector cleaner and stabilizer in your fuel.  These bikes seem really sensitive to fuel problems.  There have been lots of faulty fuel pumps and plugged injectors.

Mine was running really hot one day (on a cool day).  I replaced the injector and it has run fine ever since.  I was messing with the fuel lines and probably got some crud in there.

A lot of people install some heat reflective tape on the bottom of the tank to help keep the fuel from boiling too easily.  And some wrap or ceramic coat the mid pipe.

I finally added a temperature gauge to mine.  It usually runs around 210 degrees F or less.  If it gets above that, it is a warning that perhaps I need to clean the injector or something.

There is lots more data on Husaberg.org and the Husaberg forum in KTMtalk.com.

Fan kits are must have items on these bikes if you plan on doing any trail riding at all. I don't know why they don't just install them as at the factory.
And after market muffler will allow the motor to run much cooler too.

zabe45 said:

  Same problem, fixed.  Cooling fans, Heat wrap for tank, Evans coolant.
  Now it runs cooler than the DRZ 400 E, my Buddy is borrowing it for the races and rides and it will overheat first.  I still overheated stuck on a lose gravel hill climb and not moving. When the red light comes on, shut it down because it is warning you.

   I race the HGP Hare Scrambles in US southern MO and on some of the most technical and tight woods racing around.

I boiled my FE450 a couple times, then put on an FMF4.1, had the dealer install the competition map, wrapped the entire exhaust to the muffler and put on the fan kit.  No more issues and the thing runs like a beast!!

My experience is the same.  Free up the exhaust, fan kit, no more overheat.  These bikes do have small radiators.  I had a new Yamaha WR250F in the garage and that bike's rads are half again larger than my Berg's.

Another worthwhile mod to thoroughly beat it into the ground - change out the fan thermo switch for a lower temp one.  I have a trail tech temp gauge on my bike and the stock fan switch is set to trip when the coolant temp at the bottom of the rad (the coolest area) reaches 210F.  My temp gauge read 223F when the fan tripped (hot water temp coming off the head) -  a bit warm for my tastes.  The high temp switch is a carryover from the KTMs, which have a weak charging system.  Excess fan use kills the battery in those bikes.

Changed out the switch for one meant for a 1984 BMW 325i ($18 at NAPA) and now the fan trips at 203F and turns off at 193F, again measured at the hottest water exiting the head.  The fan runs more, but unlike the KTMs, the Bergs with their FI have a stout stator (211 watts output).  They could run the fan 100% of the time and the battery would be fine.  I say let the fan run.  Feel free to add heated grips too if you like   

A pic of my temp gauge setup.



If you leave the rad cap on and are quick, you can swap out the fan switch with minimal coolant spillage.  

Great tip. Yesterday I wanted to test the newly mounted fan; after 10 minutes of idling it didn't turn on. Perhaps it was already to cold outside?

I'll order that BMW part!

For mounting, I would suggest laying the bike over on its left side.

Good info. Thanks

I also installed a temperature gauge.  If after making the suggested mods the bike ever starts to overheat, it may be a warning that your fuel system is getting clogged and the bike is running lean.  That might allow you to clean the system before it fails out on the trail.

I still have the stock thermostat.  My max temperature is usually between 210 and 230 after a days riding.  The day mine was running poorly, it was much, much hotter than that.  I didn't have the temp gauge at that time, but I could tell the bike was radiating a ton of heat.  After cleaning the fuel system it has run perfectly since.

I've recieved some great feedback on the overheating issue, I am curious has the 2011 model been better than the 09 and 10's. What year and model is your bike?

zabe45 said:

Mine is a 2010 FE450.

I don't think there were many significant changes that would impact heat between 2009, 2010, and 2011 with the exception of the exhaust can.  I don't know when the change occurred, but some folks have the really restrictive can while others (like me) have the more free flowing one.  Plus there were those built with the faulty fuel pump.

zabe45 said:

They are all the same as far as the cooling system goes, and in most other respects that matter.

Just figured out a problem with my 390 and I have read a post earlier on TT about this. When the bike falls over, it leaks gas and it is not supposed to, and when I overheated at the Cassville Nationals on the last lap, I fell over and smelled gas, but took off and noticed the red light was on. The computer had read the gas fumes and leaned out, then it overheated. Need to find check ball and fix.

  Found this on dirt Bike world talk forum.  Going to check this ot today.

Discovered today the fuel is coming from the tank breather.Seems ok with under half a tank of fuel but when full the little ball thingy in the cap is not shutting off and at only 45deg it pisses out,Pulled it to bits thinking it might be blocked but all looks good inside there.New cap would be shit loads so looking for alternative guys??...Does the little rubber dongger set up i have seen on few bikes have a one way valve in it or is there something else i should look at?

__________________
FE-390 2011

Edited by old man dave 59, 24 November 2011 - 10:52 AM.

Most people take out the check ball AND the one-way valve in the vent hose.  I haven't heard of any problems with them out other than spilling fuel when tipped and the fuel boils at a lower temperature since it doesn't build pressure in the tank.

I recently put mine back in.  I noticed some fuel weeping from the hose at the one-way valve when the bike was hot, but otherwise didn't notice any difference.  But you wouldn't want to open the cap when it is under pressure or you could get a face full of hot fuel.

This is also something one should read:

http://www.fuel-test..._water_gas.html

You could plug your breather line before you store the bike for some time.

Link to the fan switch I referenced earler.  Activates at a lower temp the the stock KTM one (95C).  In practice, it seems to come on about 18F cooler than the stock KTM switch, which is 100C, but seems to wait even longer than that.

http://www.napaonlin...AND(P_RecType:A)  Altom Imports, part ATM 1435033.


New years bonus! Link below to the fuel filter every fuel injected KTM product should have, as KTM seems to be pathetically spastic on this issue

http://www.parkeryam...outlanders.aspx

Can-Am quad fuel filter part number 709000100.  Spend the $13.25.  Save a giant headache