Best way to fix skidplate mounting tabs


10 replies to this topic
  • Wiz636

Posted November 07, 2011 - 06:06 PM

#1

The threaded inserts on both of my front skidplate mounting tabs have pulled out of the aluminum. Can't use a heli-coil or timesert since there is nothing for them to back up to. I thought about just tapping the aluminum for a bigger screw but I doubt that would last very long, especially since bashing over rocks and logs puts quite a bit of stress on those threads.

Any good ideas? 2008 YZ450 BTW

  • Theeebalz

Posted November 07, 2011 - 06:17 PM

#2

if there's still holes just put bolts and nuts on it! and lock/crush/smoosh (w.e. you wanna call it!) washers of course

  • Wiz636

Posted November 07, 2011 - 06:47 PM

#3

if there's still holes just put bolts and nuts on it! and lock/crush/smoosh (w.e. you wanna call it!) washers of course


That was my initial thought, but how to get a wrench/socket on the backside to hold it while tightening or removing?

  • Mr. Neutron

Posted November 07, 2011 - 07:16 PM

#4

Maybe one of these?

http://www.fulltorque.com/fft.htm

You have to scroll down to get to the metric ones. You'd need the 6mm X 1.00 inserts. It looks like the shortest one is slightly over .315 long, which equates really close to 8mm. I'm not certain how long/deep our little skid plate mounting tabs are, but I'd guess just over .250 thick? :busted:

Jimmie

In EDIT: If these inserts are slightly long, I don't see what the harm is of them extending out the "back side" of the mounting tabs. There seems to be enough dead air space back there to get by with that....

From the Full Torque web page: "FFT style inserts are the most popular and easy to install. They finish flush to the surface when installed.

Torquing the bolt into the insert creates the upward force required to maintain the radial drawing force that reinforces the surrounding metal."

Edited by Diesel Goober, November 07, 2011 - 07:21 PM.
Added a thought I had....


  • grayracer513

Posted November 07, 2011 - 07:21 PM

#5

Hey, old buddy...

Check into Spring Nuts. See if something like that will work for you. Should be available at most auto parts stores in all kinds of sizes.

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  • Theeebalz

Posted November 07, 2011 - 07:27 PM

#6

could weld on a nut to the other side! and then you only have to use one wrench/socket!

  • grayracer513

Posted November 07, 2011 - 07:42 PM

#7

You could, but it's aluminum, and the engine is kind of in the way.

  • Jim813

Posted November 07, 2011 - 09:03 PM

#8

I used these. They work excellent and have held up to desert abuse:

http://www.boltprodu...ivets-nuts.html

  • grayracer513

Posted November 07, 2011 - 09:34 PM

#9

Because of the way that the tabs are formed, those are probably the best solution.

  • Wiz636

Posted November 08, 2011 - 07:10 AM

#10

I used these. They work excellent and have held up to desert abuse:

http://www.boltprodu...ivets-nuts.html


That looks like a good solution. How are they installed...special tool? Or can you simply torque a bolt down until the rivet collapses and forms the grip? What size did you use?

  • grayracer513

Posted November 08, 2011 - 07:27 AM

#11

There is a tool similar to a riveter that speeds things up when you do a lot of them, but you can also set them using a longer bolt with a nut and washer.





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