for the crank I did not have to replace the rod and the big end bearing I cleaned and flushed it about 60 times! it now has held up for 2 yrs and +/- 30hrs
94 KDX 200 took on a lot of water
Started by
Zachsv
, Oct 24 2011 01:32 PM
62 replies to this topic
Posted 29 October 2011 - 02:23 PM
yay. hahaha thanks for all that. I was hoping someone would just say "nahhhh its PERFECT! Just replace the gear and rattatatatattatatatat!"
lmao
Guess I have something to do tomorrow.
lmao
Guess I have something to do tomorrow.
Posted 30 October 2011 - 04:36 AM
Soooo Anyone have a case splitter and crank puller/installer I could "rent"? Would gladly let you hold onto 100$ until you get it back 
Posted 01 November 2011 - 10:25 AM
I made my own from a few steel plates I had saved from an elevator I had to go to pep boys and get an assortment of long m8 or m10 bolts to reach into where the stator bolts up.
since then I have split many cases with a harbor frieght bearing splitter/ puller set I picked up for about $25-$30. it always helps to have some long metric bolts and a bunch of washers
if I where you though I would take $25 bucks or a case of beer to the local motorcycle mechanic and se if he will do it. If you have all the bolt out and all the stuff from the left side innner and the stator removed then it only take a few minutes to set up and pull the cases apart
since then I have split many cases with a harbor frieght bearing splitter/ puller set I picked up for about $25-$30. it always helps to have some long metric bolts and a bunch of washers
if I where you though I would take $25 bucks or a case of beer to the local motorcycle mechanic and se if he will do it. If you have all the bolt out and all the stuff from the left side innner and the stator removed then it only take a few minutes to set up and pull the cases apart
Posted 01 November 2011 - 02:10 PM
basketcasebill said:
I made my own from a few steel plates I had saved from an elevator I had to go to pep boys and get an assortment of long m8 or m10 bolts to reach into where the stator bolts up.
since then I have split many cases with a harbor frieght bearing splitter/ puller set I picked up for about $25-$30. it always helps to have some long metric bolts and a bunch of washers
if I where you though I would take $25 bucks or a case of beer to the local motorcycle mechanic and se if he will do it. If you have all the bolt out and all the stuff from the left side innner and the stator removed then it only take a few minutes to set up and pull the cases apart
since then I have split many cases with a harbor frieght bearing splitter/ puller set I picked up for about $25-$30. it always helps to have some long metric bolts and a bunch of washers
if I where you though I would take $25 bucks or a case of beer to the local motorcycle mechanic and se if he will do it. If you have all the bolt out and all the stuff from the left side innner and the stator removed then it only take a few minutes to set up and pull the cases apart
that second part sounds like a good idea haha
Posted 08 November 2011 - 05:15 PM
Ok this is just killing me lol How the hell do I get the flywheel off?? I've taken out the bolt, and this thing still won't budge. Help??
Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:10 PM
Yep, takes a puller that threads onto the flange with a bolt in the middle. Easy, just takes the right tool!
Posted 09 November 2011 - 05:54 AM
good news is that flywheel puller works on a bunch of bikes even a 1970 z50!
Posted 09 November 2011 - 08:02 AM
Is there a cheaper then Tusk 60$ method of removing the crank? Found out my Advanced Auto pulley puller set was a tad smaller then the cranks threads.
Same goes for splitting the case. I'm too much of a cheap bastard lol. Now if rust has formed on the crank journals, can a machinist clean it up or can I, whats the deal? Trashed? Like anyone else who's never done it, I'm confused.
Thanks to everyone shooting me advice. This thread might actually help other dolts like me in the future haha
Same goes for splitting the case. I'm too much of a cheap bastard lol. Now if rust has formed on the crank journals, can a machinist clean it up or can I, whats the deal? Trashed? Like anyone else who's never done it, I'm confused.
Thanks to everyone shooting me advice. This thread might actually help other dolts like me in the future haha
Posted 09 November 2011 - 08:39 AM
cleaning up and putting new bearings in shouldn't be an issue.
You can make a case splitter out of some scrap steel. Drill a hole that goes over the crank threads but stops at the shoulder, drill some more holes that line up with some bolt holes in the case or stator cover and use long m8 bolts. I use 2 pieces of angle iron welded together like a Y. Crank puller is not necessary as long as you have a case splitter fashioned up.
Where in NC are you?
You can make a case splitter out of some scrap steel. Drill a hole that goes over the crank threads but stops at the shoulder, drill some more holes that line up with some bolt holes in the case or stator cover and use long m8 bolts. I use 2 pieces of angle iron welded together like a Y. Crank puller is not necessary as long as you have a case splitter fashioned up.
Where in NC are you?
Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:12 AM
I'm in Kinston, about 1.5 hrs to Raleigh, 1.5 hrs to Wilmington, 1hr to Emerald Isle...
Got any photos of the fabricated part? Closest welder I have for me to use, you guessed it, 1.5 hrs away haha, which costs me 60$ in driving anyway. I'm thinking I could sell the tools when I'm done as damn near new anyway.
I'm confused though...If tusk sells a splitter, whats the deal with the crank remover. Only video I found online that was decent was def a Tusk sponsored video, and it was really well detailed.
Got any photos of the fabricated part? Closest welder I have for me to use, you guessed it, 1.5 hrs away haha, which costs me 60$ in driving anyway. I'm thinking I could sell the tools when I'm done as damn near new anyway.
I'm confused though...If tusk sells a splitter, whats the deal with the crank remover. Only video I found online that was decent was def a Tusk sponsored video, and it was really well detailed.
Posted 09 November 2011 - 11:49 AM
It makes it a little easier, but it's not necessary. I have heard that the tusk crank installer/remover doesn't work quite right for the KDX anyway...
Posted 09 November 2011 - 12:39 PM
You are needing a crankcase splitting tool. The other tool you mention is a crank puller, used during reassembly, but it is NOT needed.
Sorry to hear of the bike's troubles, as well as yours. I have a '94 also.
Sorry to hear of the bike's troubles, as well as yours. I have a '94 also.
Posted 09 November 2011 - 03:00 PM
Alright, well I bought them both anyway earlier today due to the return policy. I figure might as well spend a bunch of money and get my stuff here as fast as possible with the possibility of getting it back.
I really appreciate the feed back guys...The simplicity of this motor freaks me out haha. Rebuilt a 4cyl toyota this past year and it was like a set of Lincoln Logs
I really appreciate the feed back guys...The simplicity of this motor freaks me out haha. Rebuilt a 4cyl toyota this past year and it was like a set of Lincoln Logs
Posted 09 November 2011 - 06:54 PM
Look around for some crankcase splitting threads. no1clyde has one.
Use a rubber hammer to help tap around to keep it even.
Use a rubber hammer to help tap around to keep it even.
Posted 10 November 2011 - 05:09 AM
Awesome thanks. Pretty sure in the meantime while I'm waiting for the parts, I'm just going to have to strip down the bike even more and repaint it.
Hammer black or silver? Whats the consensus? There is no easier paint to patch then hammer black, but silver reminds me of clean, fast, light weight. Green is out of the question as there is no way i'm going to pick the right green hahaha
Hammer black or silver? Whats the consensus? There is no easier paint to patch then hammer black, but silver reminds me of clean, fast, light weight. Green is out of the question as there is no way i'm going to pick the right green hahaha
Posted 10 November 2011 - 09:56 AM
well dayuummmmmmm thats money! Good to know, but yeah...it's gonna be a 10$ job, and thats with primer and several coats. hahaha
