I need some thoughts on what goodies i should get


40 replies to this topic
  • rcdude33

Posted October 18, 2011 - 11:24 AM

#21

I went with RG3 for my suspension because it is the closest shop to me, turn around was 2 days, they were able to offer me the lowest price, and again they are right down the road if i need anything changed. There is a guy on youtube that rebuilt his entire 250f and gives a relatively decent example of how to do a top end and the bikes are very similar, other than that just follow the manual and be sure you have all the right tools. You always have us here on TT to help out with any questions as well


yeah i saw that video but im going to check it out again but im a little nervous because this is going to be my first on a 4 stroke.

  • rcdude33

Posted October 18, 2011 - 11:28 AM

#22

#1 thing is to get your suspension set up for your weight, type of terrain, and riding skill level. Be honest with the tuner! I also recommend Smart Performance. DaveJ here on TT will do it for you if you send it in, or he will sell you the parts and give you the instruction and recommended valve stacks.

After that I would install a Rekluse. I will never go back. Next up would be a steering damper.

Other things to consider for off-roading are the common items like handguards, skidplate, and I like to run an 18" rear rim for a tire with more sidewall...this allows better traction over rocks, roots, etc as the taller sidewall flexes and absorbs much of the small stuff. Another item I consider a must have is an HDPE chain guide like TM Designworks or BRP.

Also, make sure that you are jetted correctly!

Definitely no performance gain from aftermarket rims or hubs.

For your top end rebuild...not likely that you need to worry about it at 75 hours but I would change the cam chain for sure (I do mine every 50 hours). I just did the first top end on my '08 at 270 hours.


I already got hand gaurds, skid plate, and thats it hahaha and fork covers so no dirt or rocks scratch my tubes.

And WOW 270 hours!!! But do you think it wouldnt hurt if i threw a top end in it? because i was gona have the valves checked. And definately i will get that Tm designs chain slider and guide as well.

You guys recomend any sprockets? Like im on my second set but i can get my stock stuff cheap since i work at my dealer. Iron man? Side winder? Anything?

  • tech24

Posted October 18, 2011 - 12:50 PM

#23

I already got hand gaurds, skid plate, and thats it hahaha and fork covers so no dirt or rocks scratch my tubes.

And WOW 270 hours!!! But do you think it wouldnt hurt if i threw a top end in it? because i was gona have the valves checked. And definately i will get that Tm designs chain slider and guide as well.

You guys recomend any sprockets? Like im on my second set but i can get my stock stuff cheap since i work at my dealer. Iron man? Side winder? Anything?


I prefer the el-cheapo primary drive sprockets myself that with a regina ORN6 is nearly indestructable...I just replace the front for 9 bucks once in a while (I know supposed to replace as a set). The only downside is the rear is heavy steel but I don't care.

  • rcdude33

Posted October 18, 2011 - 04:17 PM

#24

I prefer the el-cheapo primary drive sprockets myself that with a regina ORN6 is nearly indestructable...I just replace the front for 9 bucks once in a while (I know supposed to replace as a set). The only downside is the rear is heavy steel but I don't care.


Yeah man i like the steel ones they last a lot longer than my aluminum, mine eats right through em

  • YZPaGuy

Posted October 18, 2011 - 05:51 PM

#25

Search YZ450F woods setup on this website. You will have tons of great info to read.

Some other good threads

http://www.thumperta...7197&highlight=

http://www.thumperta...9364&highlight=

http://www.thumperta...2611&highlight=

Tons of great info around for exactly what you are trying to do. The 450's are great harescramble bikes once the are set up right. I run the steel sprockets, the weight difference doesn't matter for what I'm doing with it. Suspension, flywheel weight, rekluse, you have all kinds of projects and choices to make.

The one thing I will suggest, change the bike one thing at a time. After making one change ride the bike. That way you can decifer what changes each mod made allowing you to make more and future decisions. This is the one thing I did wrong in the begining and it just left me with more questions.

Have fun!

  • rcdude33

Posted October 19, 2011 - 02:59 AM

#26

dude thank you so much!!!!!!!!!! I do have some decisions to make hahaha. But now does the rekluse act like a fly wheel weight? Because i heard you get way better traction?

  • Wiz636

Posted October 19, 2011 - 06:25 AM

#27

The Rekluse does not really have any noticable flywheel effect...remember that the clutch is spinning at only about 1/3 the speed of the crank.

The heavy GYTR flywheel is a good add for offroading. Someone mentioned the Regina ORN6 chain and I second that recommendation. That chain is so strong that you will get longer sprocket life even from cheap sprockets because the chain does not stretch out.

It won't hurt anything to rebuild your top end now, its just unlikely that it is necessary...unless you are a Barcia-type rider that lives on the rev limiter.

  • grayracer513

Posted October 19, 2011 - 07:47 AM

#28

... But now does the rekluse act like a fly wheel weight? Because i heard you get way better traction?

As Wiz said, no it doesn't act as a flywheel weight. It also won't have any effect on traction once it's engaged, which happens at a very low RPM, since after that. it's not any different than your current clutch. But imagine for a second being able to negotiate a tight rocky uphill section full of switchbacks without giving a single thought to the clutch lever, or going on a trail ride and starting the bike once at the beginning, then not again until the end of the ride.

  • rcdude33

Posted October 21, 2011 - 09:29 AM

#29

Man that sounds really tempting... now do you get that easy pull clutch? Also what is just the exp core? Or what one do u prefer? Like the z start, exp, or the core?

  • grayracer513

Posted October 21, 2011 - 10:41 AM

#30

Visit the Rekluse web site:

http://www.rekluse.c...dproducts.shtml

The Z-Start Pro is the one that most off-roaders seem to prefer. It is designed so that a set of spring disengages the clutch, and a set of centrifugally driven balls on ramps engages it. The original clutch linkage remains in place, and you can manually disengage and modulate the clutch at any RPM. The lever effort is very light at operating speeds, and feels disconnected at idle.

The EXP uses a ring assembly in the clutch stack that expands centrifugally to engage the clutch. The rest of the clutch is all OEM. The cable is adjusted so that there is a normal amount of free travel at 3000 RPM, so that the original clutch push rod holds the clutch open at idle when the EXP ring has contracted. Lever effort is just like stock at all times, and manual override is possible at any time.

The Core EXP works exactly the same way that the EXP does, but it includes a complete racing clutch assembly. This is to make up for the fact that the EXP removes a couple of plates from the stack to make room for itself, which reduces the holding power of the clutch assembly and makes it less than suitable for extreme use. Again, lever feel and override are normal.

Bump starting is impossible with the Z-Start Pro. Both EXP designs can be adjusted to enable bump starting, but doing so can create a situation where the clutch can't be overridden manually at speed until it's readjusted. Just a matter of changing the cable adjuster, though.

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  • johnny6speed

Posted October 21, 2011 - 12:33 PM

#31

Visit the Rekluse web site:

http://www.rekluse.c...dproducts.shtml
The EXP uses a ring assembly in the clutch stack that expands centrifugally to engage the clutch. The rest of the clutch is all OEM. The cable is adjusted so that there is a normal amount of free travel at 3000 RPM, so that the original clutch push rod holds the clutch open at idle when the EXP ring has contracted. Lever effort is just like stock at all times, and manual override is possible at any time.


I've got 12 hours and 1 off-road event on my EXP 2.0 in my 2009. Wish I had done it sooner. Combined with my GYTR off-road FW it feels like cheating and the bike has become exactly what I wished for. I am far more confident when tackling nasty terrain and I am less fatigued over the course of a ride. I will say the lever effort is not like stock, its a bit stiffer but still reasonable. Keep an eye on your oil quality, I have noticed that my oil has dirtied up a bit quicker then normal. To make myself feel better, I am going to shorten my oil change interval while this device is installed in my bike and keep an eye on my remaining friction plates as the unit replaces some of them. Totally worth it.

  • rcdude33

Posted October 21, 2011 - 07:39 PM

#32

I've got 12 hours and 1 off-road event on my EXP 2.0 in my 2009. Wish I had done it sooner. Combined with my GYTR off-road FW it feels like cheating and the bike has become exactly what I wished for. I am far more confident when tackling nasty terrain and I am less fatigued over the course of a ride. I will say the lever effort is not like stock, its a bit stiffer but still reasonable. Keep an eye on your oil quality, I have noticed that my oil has dirtied up a bit quicker then normal. To make myself feel better, I am going to shorten my oil change interval while this device is installed in my bike and keep an eye on my remaining friction plates as the unit replaces some of them. Totally worth it.


I just may have to buy that but im like max right now at my best is a B rider in the woods. But what do you guys recomend? I know gray gave me the break down so wouldnt all of them like serve the same purpose? I know they both use different parts to engage the clutch but at my dealer we have ordered A class woods racers a lot of EXPs.

But should they want the z-start pro?

  • rcdude33

Posted October 21, 2011 - 07:42 PM

#33

Visit the Rekluse web site:

http://www.rekluse.c...dproducts.shtml

The Z-Start Pro is the one that most off-roaders seem to prefer. It is designed so that a set of spring disengages the clutch, and a set of centrifugally driven balls on ramps engages it. The original clutch linkage remains in place, and you can manually disengage and modulate the clutch at any RPM. The lever effort is very light at operating speeds, and feels disconnected at idle.

The EXP uses a ring assembly in the clutch stack that expands centrifugally to engage the clutch. The rest of the clutch is all OEM. The cable is adjusted so that there is a normal amount of free travel at 3000 RPM, so that the original clutch push rod holds the clutch open at idle when the EXP ring has contracted. Lever effort is just like stock at all times, and manual override is possible at any time.

The Core EXP works exactly the same way that the EXP does, but it includes a complete racing clutch assembly. This is to make up for the fact that the EXP removes a couple of plates from the stack to make room for itself, which reduces the holding power of the clutch assembly and makes it less than suitable for extreme use. Again, lever feel and override are normal.

Bump starting is impossible with the Z-Start Pro. Both EXP designs can be adjusted to enable bump starting, but doing so can create a situation where the clutch can't be overridden manually at speed until it's readjusted. Just a matter of changing the cable adjuster, though.


Wow gray thats a ton of info hahaha. But i posted another post if you want to check that out. Instead of me reposting again. Now are these clutch systems easy to adjust?

I know as far as the z-sart goes dont you take out balls or add them?

But heres the thing, i really want this clutch but can i use mostly my stock plates, basket, and pressure plate? I know that some of them come with an inner hub.

  • grayracer513

Posted October 21, 2011 - 08:53 PM

#34

OK, more stuff....

All the clutches can be tuned in two ways; the speed at which the clutch engages, and the rate at which it engages (how quickly it goes to fully locked after it starts to engage). In all cases the engagement speed is set by varying the springs used to disengage the clutch, and the rate is adjusted by the weights used to engage it.

With the Z-Start Pro, you pop the clutch cover and remove the pressure plate assembly to make changes. With either EXP clutch, you fish the EXP ring out of the plate stack and open it up on the bench. Neither is hard to do.

The ZSP requires the use of the specially designed clutch boss and Rekluse steels, as well as the pressure assembly, but a stock basket works fine.

The EXP uses the whole original clutch, but the Core EXP replaces the whole thing with one deep enough to hold the EXP unit in with a full stack of plates.

Comments I've heard from those who say they like the ZSP better that the EXP clutches are that they think the ZSP engages more smoothly and disengages more reliably, and they like the light lever feel thing. I can't speak to that point though, because I've only used the ZSP.

  • rcdude33

Posted October 23, 2011 - 06:16 PM

#35

OK, more stuff....

All the clutches can be tuned in two ways; the speed at which the clutch engages, and the rate at which it engages (how quickly it goes to fully locked after it starts to engage). In all cases the engagement speed is set by varying the springs used to disengage the clutch, and the rate is adjusted by the weights used to engage it.

With the Z-Start Pro, you pop the clutch cover and remove the pressure plate assembly to make changes. With either EXP clutch, you fish the EXP ring out of the plate stack and open it up on the bench. Neither is hard to do.

The ZSP requires the use of the specially designed clutch boss and Rekluse steels, as well as the pressure assembly, but a stock basket works fine.

The EXP uses the whole original clutch, but the Core EXP replaces the whole thing with one deep enough to hold the EXP unit in with a full stack of plates.

Comments I've heard from those who say they like the ZSP better that the EXP clutches are that they think the ZSP engages more smoothly and disengages more reliably, and they like the light lever feel thing. I can't speak to that point though, because I've only used the ZSP.


Realy so i guess im going to go with the Z-start pro!! But i have to wait a little bit to get it. But hey gray while your here, my bike has a little front wheel bearing play. Like i always grease and keep the maintence up on my bike but i can feel any play when i move the wheel back and forth without holding the forks from moving left to right.


Its hard to explain but i have to move the wheel pretty hard back and forth, and while holding the handle bars too. Do you think my bearings are going? My rear are absoltely fine.

  • Moscow Roost

Posted November 01, 2011 - 08:55 PM

#36

Realy so i guess im going to go with the Z-start pro!! But i have to wait a little bit to get it. But hey gray while your here, my bike has a little front wheel bearing play. Like i always grease and keep the maintence up on my bike but i can feel any play when i move the wheel back and forth without holding the forks from moving left to right.


Its hard to explain but i have to move the wheel pretty hard back and forth, and while holding the handle bars too. Do you think my bearings are going? My rear are absoltely fine.

After speaking with the guys at Rekluse extensively, I decided on the EXP2. Rode it for a couple months and decided that I should have bought the Core EXP in the first place. The guys at Rekluse hooked me up and I will never look back.

I rode an 09 with the ZSP but didn't like the clutch feel. It was weird having no resistance near idle.

The Core EXP clutch feels just like stock, whilethe EXP2 is quite a bit stiffer. The guys at Rekluse will suggest you go with the newer technology...the Core EXP or EXP2. I am only 5'7" and anything to help me navigate tough single track without stalling is a godsend. The Core EXP exceeds all of my expectations. I'm faster, have less fatigue & NEVER stall... all but eliminating my slow speed tip-overs. My 09 has the GYTR flywheel weight and 13-51 sprockets. Works great for the tight stuff and doesn't compromise too much on the top end speed.

  • Moscow Roost

Posted November 01, 2011 - 08:59 PM

#37

Hey guys!!!!!! Man it has been a long time not posting on here, but I have a 2009 yz450f with a msr skid plate, Dr.d stainless system, and radiator braces.

Now here the thing i ride woods, singletrack, harescrambles, anything. And next year i really really want to race but i need YOUR help on what is necessary to buy for my 450. I got about 73 hours on the bike and it has been running GREAT!!!! Best bike i have ever gotten.

But i will be ordering a OEM top end kit, or i think they are pieced out and oem top end gasket kit, oh and a timing chain. I know i have seen guys go well over 100 hours but i just want to do this for the insurance of the bike. ( i got a waranty on it but i really dont want anything to happen)

NOW BACK TO THE TOPIC

I am probably going to get my suspension done(I am about 5'7 and about 210lbs), like heres the thing like whats really necessary?

I was looking into different rims, like i've seen excel rims with tallon hubs with like heavy duty spokes. To make a long story short just tell me anything:thumbsup:

I work at my dealer so you know, i can get parts for a good price but thats besides the fact.

But thank you guys so much!!!! Man without you guys helping me out i dont know what i would do!!!

Thanks and god bless each and everyone of you!!!

Alex

Oh... and may I also suggest a race link from Yamalink. It only lowers the bike 1" after re-setting your sag, but makes touching the ground a bit easier. It also helps keep the rear end planted.

If you do put the link on, make sure to get a stiffer rear spring. The added leverage will make setting the sag impossible (if it isn't already at your weight). Good luck

  • rcdude33

Posted November 02, 2011 - 06:18 PM

#38

Oh... and may I also suggest a race link from Yamalink. It only lowers the bike 1" after re-setting your sag, but makes touching the ground a bit easier. It also helps keep the rear end planted.

If you do put the link on, make sure to get a stiffer rear spring. The added leverage will make setting the sag impossible (if it isn't already at your weight). Good luck


My buddy has the lowering link on his 250f but to tell you the truth man i kind of dont like it. i dont know why i just kind of dont. But its on my list though but i am a shorter person but im about 210lbs

  • sacfelix

Posted November 02, 2011 - 10:48 PM

#39

I would do the suspension(Smart Performance) first. I am 5'11" and weigh 206 in street clothes and I run .48 fork springs & 5.6 shock spring for a B rider in the woods on my 06 YZ450 with DaveJ's set up. I would also add a fly wheel weight, Gearing to 13-51, a stabilizer and make sure to reroute your breather tube int the air box.

  • Moscow Roost

Posted November 03, 2011 - 07:27 AM

#40

My buddy has the lowering link on his 250f but to tell you the truth man i kind of dont like it. i dont know why i just kind of dont. But its on my list though but i am a shorter person but im about 210lbs

I had a "lowering link" on my WR250F & WR450F and fought with making it perform the way I wanted. That link lowered the rear by 1 3/4".

What I'm talking about isn't really a lowering link, rather, a "Race Link" that helps keep the rear end planted while at the same time only giving you 1" of lowering effect.

On my WR's, I was constantly bottoming out the rear tire on the rear fender even with a stiffer spring and having the high speed compression turned in a bit. The more lowering effect, the more increase in leverage which makes bottoming easier... even with a stiffer spring.

I took my YZ450F to the local track this fall and never got close to bottoming with the 1 inch race link.

Not sure about your buddies link or the brand, but the guys at Yamalink were great to work with and it is an inexpensive part that makes my riding much more enjoyable. Just my 2 cents.





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