Carburetter has arrived. Right part number on the side for an 83K model so thats a good side. Has all the pipes that the latest carb has which is also good. Some pipes are aftermarket replacements, not so good but cheap to rectify. Butterfly valve does not make a complete seal when closed inside the 2nd carb. Is this going to be an issue? The butterfly valve in my current carb is perfect with a great seal, no light getting through. This one has  maybe 0.1 mm gap in places?? Biggest problem is probably the secondary slide. It's seized solid. I think I'll have a quick look to see if it's nothing too bad, if it is, I'll ship the whole thing off for a refurb and bite the bullet. But at least I will end up with a grade A later model carb. (I hope).

I'm not entirely sure if the butterfly fully closes or not on the carb. It's possible someone drastically over-adjusted the opening point of the secondary carb that it's sticking open, I guess.
Stuck slide is definitely an issue you'll need to fix.

Thought I'd update this, it's been with the carb guys for 2 weeks now and "we haven't had time to look at it yet"!! Oh well.

Light the fireworks and uncork the champagne, the carb guy contacted me!! I should have it back soon looking as good as new and then it will be put on the bike and we shall find out if there's any difference!! It's been a while since I've had anything to report so this bit of news seems noteworthy.

Can't wait to hear it. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

I think you should post the name of the carb guy , as a service to anyone that might be inclined to use him .

3 months for a carb rebuild is absolutely ridiculous and a totally piss poor way to treat your customers , even if they are the scum of the earth .

I'm glad that you MIGHT get your carb back , now that the season is pretty well done .

pd350, on 06 September 2012 - 11:06 AM, said:

He apologised about it, his Dad died so i assume it's taken him a while to get himself back together so I won't hold it against him. But yea, long time, but the weather is still good here so lots of riding time to get in.

Sounds like you're the kind of guy I'd like holding my delinquent mortgage , if I had one  . LOL

I know that kind of loss can hit some folks real hard .

Everything happens for a reason .

OK, I'm going to put the refurbed carb on but I thought I'd change the oil and filter before. I've drained it and for some reason have about 2.5 litres of old oil where the manual says to put in 1.8 l without filter change, 2.2 l with???? Confused now. But I'm gonna put on the carb and test it so fingers crossed. That's if it doesn't seize up from lack of oil.

That's only about a quarter liter more . Not enough to worry about , IMHO . ( might have been hiding in the head or maybe you checked oil level with the bike on the side stand )

Just don't forget to put the new oil in before you start the motor .

Well, after all this time and all this money spenton parts from ebay and whatnot, after all the input from you guys on this forum, after all the skinned knuckles getting carbs on and off, I am now able to report:
SUCCESS
Man, this bike is scary now!! After the sedate previous carb, I can now feel every one of those torques trying to leave me in the last century, woow, what a difference!! So, it makes a hell of a difference. Whether or not I can get the previous carb working as per this one, i don't know, but man o man, this is like a different machine.

As for the oil, I'll keep an eye on the level in the tank. One bit of bad news though, the lower drain plug (next to the change lever), when I was tightening it, very carefully I might add, it just started to turn and turn so I think it might have stripped but strangely enough it seems to be holding. Nothing that an engineer couldn't put right but more hassle.

Thanks for all the help guys!!

Excellent . That's what we wanted to hear . Climbed any trees yet ?

You might try wrapping the oil plug threads with thread tape if it starts leaking until it can be repaired properly . If it isn't leaking , use the drain at the buttom center of the cases to change the oil . That screen should be inspected and cleaned every oil change anyway . I don't even use that side drain .

I love that machine for all the reasons you just stated. Nothing beats having a project finally work the way you expect it to, or even better yet work better than you expected it to.
Enjoy.

Smacaroni, on 10 September 2012 - 04:59 AM, said:

I sure will!! It's with a mechanic at the moment getting the sump plug hellicoiled so no more leaks from that. Thx for all your input, much appreciated Only thing to do after that is try and get the air/fule mix right. Lots of backfiring when you throttle off now. I'll have to read up on that coasting enricher.

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Sounds like an air leak . Double check the insulators . That includes the o rings where the meet the head . I cut a couple rubberized gaskets to insure a good seal there .
Something else , Insure that all 3 tubes that go between the carb bodies are good and tight . Air can get in there , too .

I agree, you should look for air leaks, let the bike idle, spray carb cleaner around the joints, if the idle changes, you have a leak in the vicinity of the spot the spray was hitting. If you find a leak, you want to fix it A.S.A.P.

I'd use something a lot more volatile than the non flammable carb cleaner . Starting fluid with a directional tube attached or even a propane torch .

If you use PD's method, I suggest doing so outside with a fire extinguisher within reach, or better yet, in the hands of an unwitting friend or relative standing nearby a video recorder.

I personally would want to detect a leak so it can be fixed, but if you wish to enter contention for the next viral youtube video, who am I to stop you?

Maybe smacaroni thinks you have to use the complete container to find a leak ?

Small , short spurts are all that's needed . It's been done countless times , by more people than smacaroni can count , with no harm .

Just remember that carb cleaner has a strong tendency to eat rubber parts . Thus the advice to not use it .

pd350, on 14 September 2012 - 06:59 AM, said:

even soapy water will work if the engine changes tone there is air leaking [ in] I usualy use carb cleaner I think Starting fluid is a little too hot.