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lube the fork seals


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While browsing the manual again I noticed that it recommends cleaning and lubing the fork seals and dust seals after every race with lithium based grease. I've never seen anyone do this before and I was curious as to how many of you do this, and what method do you use? Are you just wiping a very thin film on to the forks? Seems like it would be a dirt magnet to me..

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Yes, I do this after every ride.

First, I clean the fork sliders. The shinny part of your forks.

Second, I use a flat blade screw driver to pull the dust covers down.

Third, I use some contact cleaner and blast everything real good. If one of the seals is ozzing some. I will clean it with a small feeler gauge.

Fourth, I apply some greese between the dust seal on the oil seal, that is in the upper part of the fork.

Fifth, I slide the dust seal back in place and bounce the forks a few times for good measure.

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Rick

01 YZ426F #85 Vet C

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No, I got some stuff from white brother, it was free at the time. It claims to reduce stickion. If stickion is a word. I would think any good water proof grease would work. When I run out I am going to just use some lithium based grease I can get at the auto parts store.

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Rick

01 YZ426F #85 Vet C

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I did not a single problem with my fork seals until I put grease on them. Then both started leaking. I friend of mine suggested NOT to do this, due to the fact that once dirt is trapped in the grease it only has to barely move up to damage your fork seal. 1st I went with Factory Connection fork seals ($29.95) they have 1mm more protection and are softer to seal better, then I use a 2.5" piece of gauze tape (non-sticky kind) and wrap it 1 time around the fork tube, I slide the tape up next to the seal and slide the dust cover up to hold it in place. Replace it often and your in good shape, MUCH easier than removing the grease everytime. ?

696

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2001 YR 426, YZ# Plate, YZ Fender, YZ pipe, YZ Tank, SDG YZ Seat, 13/50 Gearing, Pro-Taper Bars, TAG Triple Clamp, Moose Handguards, Maier Frameguards, Throttle Stop Trimmed, Air Box Lid Removed, Gray Wire Mod.

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I agree that putting the grease is a pain, and if you do it you have to clean it out after every ride or race and replace. I have done this to mine and after a year or riding and racing, I'm still on the original seals. I do occasionally get s little seepage but so far every time I notice this I have pressure built up, and taking the bleed screw out to release this pressure solves the seepage...

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First, I do like the gause idea. I may try it.

This is the routine I go through with my bikes. Do my normal seal stuff, then one will start leaking. I will try to save it for a while. If that fails, I will replace the seals. Now, when I put the new seals on I will trim the springs about 4mm. You can just unscrew the springs, You will want to trim the non-tapered end. Put it back together and you are good to go.

I now do my normal seal stuff. With a tighter spring it will take a little longer to wear in. But, I have never noticed. Once I do this that seal will last a long time. I have them last an entire season after I did the spring job on the KX.

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Rick

01 YZ426F #85 Vet C

[This message has been edited by forloop (edited 07-04-2001).]

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i HIGHLY recommend you puttin the grease in your dust seals. why? because in july of '99 i had Factory Connection do my '98yz250's suspension. greased the dust covers. raced in 14 hare scrambles. sent them back to FC in july of '00 (exactly 362 days later). they called me up and wanted to know if i had even ridden the bike! yes, the fork oil was that clean and the seals were just fine. i did this grease job on my '01yz250f and everything is still fine after 9 hare scramble races (2 in total mud). i have some pics on my web page on how exactly to do this. takes you all of 15 minutes at the max. http://www.jump.net/~sunruh/hare/info

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