Need Help Getting Swingarm and Linkage Bolts Out

[woods-rider]

I have a swingarm and linkage bearing kit in my garage waiting to go in , but upon dis-assembly I could not get two of the bolts out. I took the nuts off and tapped kinda hard on the threaded end with a hammer and neither of these two bolts budged. I looked at the manual to see if there was some trick to getting them out and I didn't see anything. I am thinking that they are just frozen in there, but don't want to pound too hard and break something just in case there is some trick to getting them out that I am not seeing. The other linkage bolts came out fine FYI.

Stuck swingarm bolt (the one kinda behind the brake peddle)

Stuck linkage bolt

[dustdogg]

Soak them with some PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. I would also thread the nut on until it is flush with the end of the bolt then beat on it with a block of wood and a BFH. This will lesson the chance of damaging the threads. It should come out with a few good hits. I just did my '07 last weekend and have also done my '02 several times over the years and they never gave me any problems, probably because I ride in mostly dry desert.

FYI you will probably have to remove your brake pedal for the main swingarm bolt to come out.

[richardnoggin]

You DO NOT have to remove the brake pedal to get the swingarm bolt out just pull your brake rotor off and pedal will go down far enough to get said bolt out.If you have a rattle gun(impact)try to break it loose with that and alot of kroil<<<good stuff<<<i f that does not work ya need a bfh and punch,lay bike on side ,put nut about 3 threads on and go to town!!

[resinlips]

It's likely that you'll need new bolts and possibly new linkage too if it's never been serviced till now.

[YamaLink]

Sometimes letting lubricant or a specific 'oil' for getting bolts & nuts unstuck seep in over night is mandatory. Lay bike on side (gas off) and let that stuff go in in in. Tap it for a bit to help the molecules get in there.

They can see frozen or one size too large if neglected.

Be careful not to ruin any threads or bolt heads.

[woods-rider]

Thanks guys, this is what I thought, but just wanted to be sure there wasn't a C-clip or something hidden in there. I know this bearing service is WAY overdue, but I live by the "if it aint broke, don't fix it" rule.

[Just_a_trail_rider]

Thanks guys, this is what I thought, but just wanted to be sure there wasn't a C-clip or something hidden in there. I know this bearing service is WAY overdue, but I live by the "if it aint broke, don't fix it" rule.

I feel your pain. I neglected mine too. I found the 2lb sledge hammer to be the most effective tool. I used a long 3/8 inch extension to allow me to reach it.

I think you have to really, really put some brute force behind it.

the good thing is that you won't do any damage by hammering the pin out. Just keep the socket extenstion over it. Once you get it to move a little, then you'll be able to get it to move a lot.

If you think the bolt is hard to get out, wait til you see the bearings and what it will take to get them out.

[woods-rider]

I have a hydraulic press, but yeah, not looking forward to pressing the rust balls out. Need to get it done either today or tomorrow after work though so I can load up the bikes and gear Thursday after work and leave for the long weekend Friday from work. Combine that with daughters dentist appointment tonight, rewiring the bike trailer and all the other "stuff" that come along with regular life and I'm gonna be a busy guy this week. Not to mention I am in the process of buying a house.

[GuyGraham]

the bolt is seized / rusted to the bush the bearing runs on due to water ingress

You'll need a release agent such as plusgas and plenty of heat and a big hammer

Put the nut on the end of the bolt to protect the threads of the bolts, heat them up good and proper, and start beating on them

they will come out eventually but its a painful experience & once is more than enough to make taking out and greasing once a year part of your preventative maint schedule

Had the same linkage bolt stuck in on my DRZ and it took 3 weekends of beating on it to get it out

Heat is the key

You'll destroy the oil seals with the heat but its a small price to pay

There are stories on the DRZ forum (which runs the same swingarm arrangement, of having to cut the swiingarm off and cut through the swingarm pivot by th engine casing, to get it out.

The swingarm pivot is seized where it runs through the back of the engine cases

[bergermeister]

As others have said, soak that MOFO in some sort of penetrating oil.

Don't be afraid to belt the absolute crap out of the bolt to get it out. I had to give mine some seriously sweet lov'n before it would budge an inch.

Good luck!

[woods-rider]

I have been soaking it in "liquid wrench" for the past few days and even got the splitting maul out, but since someone has to hold the 3/8" extension on the end of the bolt so that I have something to hit I am hesitant to give it a real good swing in case I miss. I don't want to break anyone's hand. This one is going to have to wait until after the long weekend unfortunately. I may have to use the torch, but really don't want that heat transferring to the engine and all its seals and bearings.

[GuyGraham]

Don't be afraid to use a blow torch on it - localiazed heat will make the job much easier

Your engine gets hot anyway, so your concern is unfounded

There's no engine seals near to damage

[woods-rider]

Good to know. Hopefully I will get to it next week.

[gsa102]

You can buy a special pin-driving hammer at industrial supply stores to take the place of the 3/8" adapter. I can't remember right now what the correct name is.

Or weld two pieces of rod in a T shape to make one. That will keep hands out of the way. Dont forget the safety glasses. Steel rod tends to spall when hit.

Grease is your friend...

Edited September 4, 2011 by gsa102
Safety