Giant hex bolt (base valve) on the bottom of forks



12 replies to this topic
  • MiniMadMan50

Posted September 11, 2003 - 01:06 PM

#1

I'm going to do the fork seals on my '01 WR426 (for the first time) and I was wondering if anyone knows what to use on the base valve (which looks like a giant allen bolt) on the bottom of my forks. It looks like I could use an allen wrench, but the thing is gigantic :)

  • BigDesto

Posted September 11, 2003 - 01:08 PM

#2

don't know the size , but you need an air wrench to get it off!

  • MiniMadMan50

Posted September 11, 2003 - 01:10 PM

#3

Nooo, really!? How about a 1/2" torque wrench?? :)

  • ogrebelle

Posted September 11, 2003 - 01:26 PM

#4

All forks that I have done have required an air or electric impact wrench or it will just spin and not break loose.

In a pinch one time up in the mountains on my old RM250 I preloaded the fork springs by hooking a tie-down through the front wheet and to the handle bars. You have to really squish them down to get enough spring preload to hold the internal components enough to loosen the hex bolt by hand. The problem is that it doesn't always work and tends to be messy.
Doug

  • Wicked_Crash

Posted September 11, 2003 - 01:27 PM

#5

Do you plan on replacing the fork valves too? If you're just replacing the fork seals, you shouldn't need to mess with the valves too.

  • BigDesto

Posted September 11, 2003 - 01:53 PM

#6

torque wrench??? I don't think so!

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  • comp182

Posted September 11, 2003 - 02:30 PM

#7

Mini you will need a 14mm and you might as well getit in a 1/2 socket form as you will need to take it off and/on with an air/electric impact. A 14mm is hard to find I had to get mine through Grainger. Make sure that you back off your comp. and rebound screws before you take it apart. Let me know if you need any other help.

  • MN_Kevin

Posted September 12, 2003 - 04:27 AM

#8

A **"one way"** trick that James Dean aka "The Carb Guru" taught me: You CAN use a handheld impact to REMOVE ONLY the base valve.

You will need someone to help out.

ensure your fork cap is protected from damage >> I used a pine board w/ some rags to help cusion the blow.

W/ the fork removed and upside down (base valve up obviously),

compress the fork leg (I stuck a long punch through the axle hole >> this was my handle to push down on AND prevent rotation)

Have your assistant use the handheld impact w/ the allen socket ( I have a Snap-On socket).

One or two whacks should do it.

**ONE WAY** means you cannot use this to tighten up the base valve. It WILL work, BUT you will have zero idea of how much torque is on the base valve.

You can use a cartridge rod holding tool, or the electric/pnuematic impact wrench to do this.

Also, I BELIEVE the manual says to use lock tite...???
If so, rip that page out of the manual!

Don't lock tite it!

If you are going to replace the fork seal, I ass-u-me you are doing an entire fork cleaning?
If not planning it, DO IT REGARDLESS!!

Now IS the time!!

  • MiniMadMan50

Posted September 12, 2003 - 08:38 AM

#9

Do you plan on replacing the fork valves too? If you're just replacing the fork seals, you shouldn't need to mess with the valves too.


Can I get the forks apart without removing the base valve? Cause hell, if I can replace the fork seals without taking them apart, i'll do it! How would I get the seals out without taking out the base valve? All I care about doing is putting new seals on, so there isn't nasty oil running down my fork slider so I can sell the damn thing. :D :)

  • MikeYarbrough

Posted September 12, 2003 - 09:27 AM

#10

Can I get the forks apart without removing the base valve? Cause hell, if I can replace the fork seals without taking them apart, i'll do it! How would I get the seals out without taking out the base valve? All I care about doing is putting new seals on, so there isn't nasty oil running down my fork slider so I can sell the damn thing. :D :)


I hope that's not on the WR 426 you want to trade :D

  • MikeYarbrough

Posted September 12, 2003 - 09:30 AM

#11

To replace the fork seals you don't need to mess with the bottom of the fork. Just pull the top cap off, remove the spring, drain the oil, and them "hammer" the fork apart to loosen the existing seal. To install the seal you will need to buy or fabricate a fork seal driver to seat the seals correctly...

Mike

  • BigDesto

Posted September 12, 2003 - 09:50 AM

#12

You can use the old seal to drive in the new one!!!

  • MiniMadMan50

Posted September 12, 2003 - 11:18 AM

#13

Can I get the forks apart without removing the base valve? Cause hell, if I can replace the fork seals without taking them apart, i'll do it! How would I get the seals out without taking out the base valve? All I care about doing is putting new seals on, so there isn't nasty oil running down my fork slider so I can sell the damn thing. :D :)


I hope that's not on the WR 426 you want to trade :D


Hahaha hmm, busted indeed. :D
If I can't get them on myself, i'll take them to somewhere that will get it done. Don't worry :D :D




 
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