2007 WR450F crack in radiator


11 replies to this topic
  • pschiess

Posted August 22, 2011 - 09:31 AM

#1

I have a 2007 Wr450F that this weekend developed a crack (tiny) in the radiator. There was no impact of any type. It just started to steam a bit. Put an end to the riding for the day as it did drain some coolant. I do have Works Connection radiator braces installed (and have ahd them since new) so no changes to the bike. Any thoughts on what happened and more importantly how to inexpensively fix it? I do not want to buy a new radiator if I do not have to.

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  • GuyGraham

Posted August 22, 2011 - 11:23 AM

#2

Send it to a rad specialist, or a good Al welder

they will weld around the pipe outlet to seal it
The pipes are only pressed in
shouldn't cost thast much
certainly no need to buy a new rad - it can be repaired very easily

  • CanadianWR450

Posted August 22, 2011 - 11:30 AM

#3

Myler's....they can fix ANY rad...check out the before and after shots on their site.

http://www.motorcycl...rs.com/newshop/

  • mikewrf18

Posted August 22, 2011 - 11:33 AM

#4

Myler's....they can fix ANY rad...check out the before and after shots on their site.

http://www.motorcycl...rs.com/newshop/


You beat me to it! I've had them do work for me in the past. Great work and great turn around. Usually I can overnight it, and they've already left a message for me to call and pay them so they can send it back before I even have a chance to make it home from work the next day.
:)

  • pschiess

Posted August 22, 2011 - 12:22 PM

#5

In researching this issue I have found five replacement radiators choices as follows -

Stock - $550 per TT Store (Who would ever buy OEM???)
Fluidyne - $400 for set
Myler - $260 for set
Warp 9 Racing - $219 for set + $5.00 shipping
eBay Auction - New set for $105 but who knows quality etc.

I am grappling with the cost benefit analysis. I could most likely get mine fixed for $50 - $60 including shipping but then I have old stock radiators that i would be concerned with during the next rides as to what seam is ready to go and ruin another ride. A new set costs significantly more but is stronger and is new. Any experience with any of the above products? Price makes me lean towards Warp 9 but I have not heard anything about them. Advise welcomed.

  • mikewrf18

Posted August 22, 2011 - 12:28 PM

#6

I don't see any point in buying new, you will eventually bust an aftermarket one as well. You can pay mylers to have your stock radiators reinforced for a bit more $$$ so it's stronger than stock. In my opinion, keeping it to stock, and fixing the one that is damaged is the most cost effective. Then buy some better rad guards with the extra money. I personally have had bad experiences with WC rad guards. I run the unabikers now and haven't had any issues yet.
They also pressure check every rad that comes in, and before it leaves. So you know you are getting a sealed/repaired (unleaky) rad back.

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  • gully whump

Posted August 22, 2011 - 12:35 PM

#7

jb weld. $7 and 1/2 hour.

  • mikewrf18

Posted August 22, 2011 - 12:40 PM

#8

jb weld. $7 and 1/2 hour.


:) :lol:
From the sounds of it, he's not looking for a bandaid fix.
That may work temporarily to get back out and ride though! JB weld, zip ties, and duct tape fix everything!

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted August 22, 2011 - 12:45 PM

#9

jb weld. $7 and 1/2 hour.


Not true... its only 20 minutes. Try the jb weld, you'll be surprised at how it works.

Oh, you really gotta get something better than the works connection radiator braces. They are not very good at all at protecting your radiator. All of the bending and flexing of the radiator causes cracks and tears in the metal.

I fall a lot and have busted up and mangled my share of radiators.

I find that the best radiator guards are the enduro engineering radiator guards. I replaced a very twisted and bent set of flatland radiator guards with those and they are great. There are more expensive ones, but its been 4 years since I've had a radiator problem.

  • CanadianWR450

Posted August 22, 2011 - 03:01 PM

#10

I'm running the Myler Supercools..
BEEFY, and big, much more capacity, and bolt on.
Your not going to get any rad guards to fit them though without serious modifications/fab.
That being said, they are so much stronger then the stockers, not sure it matters a whole bunch on having guards on them.

Pics here, and, yes, they fixed up the shipping mistake on their dime...EXCELLENT Customer Service! Turned out the rad that was "off" was actually for a WR 400 or a 426.

http://www.thumperta...t=#post10326072

  • gully whump

Posted August 23, 2011 - 06:18 AM

#11

:) :lol:
From the sounds of it, he's not looking for a bandaid fix.
That may work temporarily to get back out and ride though! JB weld, zip ties, and duct tape fix everything!


That "band aid" fix lasted 3 years on my 94 YZ 250 before I sold it. Fixed a dent with a crack on the side of the rad about halfway up. Never leaked a drop. I always check my coolant before a ride so it was easy to keep an eve on the fix. Just JB it and buy some good rad guards.

Its been holding for a year on a crack in the clutch cover of my Beta Rev 3 as well. As long as you clean the surface well and rough it up you will be amazed how well that stuff holds.

  • mikewrf18

Posted August 23, 2011 - 06:54 AM

#12

That "band aid" fix lasted 3 years on my 94 YZ 250 before I sold it. Fixed a dent with a crack on the side of the rad about halfway up. Never leaked a drop. I always check my coolant before a ride so it was easy to keep an eve on the fix. Just JB it and buy some good rad guards.

Its been holding for a year on a crack in the clutch cover of my Beta Rev 3 as well. As long as you clean the surface well and rough it up you will be amazed how well that stuff holds.


I did use JB weld on my clutch cover as well in 2007 and it's still holding up!
I used the original though, some say the JB KWICK dosen't hold up as well.




 
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