99WR400 Headlight

[ArcticWR400]

This may seem like a foolish question... but I'll keep it short and to the point.

Broke old healight on a tree. Bought new polisport headlight. Old headlight was dual 50w halogen that never ran very bright because 100w of lights on a 55w stator just doesn't jive. Old headlight hooked up with a nice, tidy little plastic connector all pre-wired and stuff. New headlight is totally different. Polisport. Has a running bulb (im not hooking up) and 3 bare metal terminals to hook up in a rubber boot for the main headlight.

2 questions:

1. Which of those two wires (black or blue) is the power/live/POSITIVE wire?

2. IF i rigged the power wire to both the hi and low beam terminals would it draw 35w x 2 = 70 watts?

[nnamssorxela]

Blue is the positive/power, black is ground.

If I understand you correctly, wiring both 35w lights to come on at the same time will indeed draw 70w

EDIT:

In case you're curious:

[ArcticWR400]

Much appreciated.

I Assumed blue to be power from that diagram also, which I googled before I started installation. I wired only 1 on... not sure if its a high beam or a low beam but im sure I can fiddle with that when fall comes and I need to ride in the dark.

The reason for the confusion is that Black is usually the power wire in household wiring, and blue is Secondary or "take-off" power within appliances or fixtures. White is Negative or return, whatever you call it. Green or Copper is ground. Just saw what I typically use as two power wires and was a little confused.

[nnamssorxela]

If you follow the black around you can see just to the upper right of the number 6 a little upside down triangle of lines. This means that is a ground; aka negative wire in that diagram. This should be true for most wiring diagrams.

Depending on how your light is set up, you might not ever need to wire the hi/low to come on at the same time. What model is it?

[ArcticWR400]

Linked the model in this post:

On my '99WR400 installed and wired new headlight, front fender, kickstand, and left side hand grip, because it always smacks a tree or gets laid down on a rock and the normal rubber ones rip, resulting in moisture under the grip and the grip slipping around on me.

Headlight: http://www.polisport.com/motorbikes/produtos.php?ID=43

Fender: http://www.polisport.com/motorbikes/produtos.php?ID=6693

Kickstand: http://www.trailtech.net/5002-YZ-WR.html

Grip: http://www.odigrips.com/intensedownhillgrips.aspx

Pics to follow...

[ArcticWR400]

I had hooked the LEFT most post to blue (power) and ran HIbeam. even with the headlight adjuster screw pointing the lense as far down as it could adjust it was still lighting up the night sky. Rewired the middle post to blue (power) and got a nice, spread beam adjusted into driving range. took it for a night cruise last night. works like a charm. i love it. this winter, upgraded stator! New kickstart return spring and ratchet gear, some bolt-tabs on the frame re-welded, and some other minor stuff done and next spring it'll be good as new. oh yea, and a new top end from Wiseco Pro-Lite ... anyone have any suggestions on where to get a new top bearing? Didn't see it in the supplies list for the top end kit from wiseco... I don't like paying for Yamabrand if I don't have to.

[SXP]

I ... anyone have any suggestions on where to get a new top bearing? Didn't see it in the supplies list for the top end kit from wiseco... I don't like paying for Yamabrand if I don't have to.

If you are talking about the small end of the connecting rod, it doesn't have a bearing. The hole in the small end serves as it's own bushing of sorts for the piston pin, and has a slot cut into the top to help keep the pin lubed.

[ArcticWR400]

solid info, thanks. this will be my first 4t teardown... hoping it goes smooth.