Converting YZ to run lights

10 replies to this topic
  • dhowell

Posted June 08, 2001 - 04:20 AM


I am currently contemplating converting my '01 YZ426 to run lights. In my research I have been told several different and confusing things concerning the stator (base essy), rotor (rotor essy / magneto) and ignition coil. I am a competent wrencher, but I am not an electrician by any means. So, I am hoping someone can help shed some light on a few things for me. I have read a few of the old posts and done some research and I know that E-Line and Baja sell a unit ($430-$480) which basically fits over the stock stator and rotor to generate enough additional power to drive lights. But, this unit looks bulky and in the way. I was told that the stator from a WR ($200) is interchangeable with the YZ and generates enough power (120w-130w) to drive a lighting system. This option would allow me to have more power to run lights and keep the slim stock look (the WR and YZ case covers are the same). Here are my questions.
1) Is the WR stator really exchangeable with the YZ?
2) Would I have to get the WR rotor ($150) if I switch to the WR stator?
3) How would this affect the performance of my bike?
4) Are these the only components, which have to be changed (the ignition coil essy for the WR and YZ are the same part number)?
5) Has anyone purchased the WR retrofit ($430) from Baja?
6) If so, is it as bulky as the external stator sold by Baja and E-Line?
7) I feel kind of stupid asking this question, but why does the YZ have a stator since it doesn't have lights?

Sorry about the length. Thanks in advance for your help.

  • Snakeman

Posted June 08, 2001 - 09:07 PM



I looked into the same issues a while back, and it looked like alot of expense just to put some lights on the bike, needing to replace the coil and rotor(flywheel), not to mention some ugly for the E-Line conversion.

Haven't got too much info on it, but Moose makes a 45 watt lighting/ignition coil for the YZ426F that's supposed to fit right under the stock flywheel. It's available in the Dennis Kirk catalog and on their web site for around $214... a darn sight cheaper than some of the other solutions.

Hope this helps,

  • kmcbride

Posted June 09, 2001 - 04:09 AM


I have put lights on my YZ but only for the purpose of passing tech inspection for racing enduros. I installed the 45 watt stator / lighting coil from I believe they are the makers of the Moose version and it is probably cheaper to get it direct. Important
note: 45 watts is low power generation for lights. You can increase the lighting by getting different bulbs but dont expect anything close to stock WR with the moose/electrex. Unless you ride WFO, then the lights are bright :). You will need the rotor for the WR conversion but it might be a desirable purchase because of its weight. A stator coil is different than a lighting coil. The stator is basically ground zero for producing the spark for your engine. The lighting coil is separately wound and just gives juice for the lights.
Good Luck, Keith.

  • ETS

Posted June 11, 2001 - 02:19 AM


I've got an eline on my 99yz and it works great. Believe it or not but it is more comfortable with it on the bike than not. The shift lever that comes with it is easier to reach than the stocker. Your right about it looking ugly, mine does but I got used to it and don't pay any attention to it anymore. The main drawback is the price.

  • dhowell

Posted June 11, 2001 - 04:30 AM


First I want to thank you guys for your responses. It is a big help. I just have two more questions. I want to make sure I am talking apples and apples with the terminology different people are using.
1. Are the flyweel and the rotor the same thing?
(here is a link that shows the rotor
2. Is the CDI module another way of saying the stator and rotor together?

Once again, thanks in advance for your help.

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  • Snakeman

Posted June 11, 2001 - 09:49 PM


The rotor and flywheel are the same thing. The term comes from the fact that the flywheel is rotating. The term stator is used interchangeably with coil. The stator sits stationary under the rotor, and has the coils of wire wound around it. The rotating magnetic field (from the magents on the rotor) induces an electric current in the coils of the stator.

The CDI is a solid-state electronic unit that is used to generate the spark on the spark plug. The energy created by the coil is fed into the CDI, where it is stored in a capacitor (CDI stands for Capacitive Discharge Ignition). At precisely the right moment, the CDI transfers all (or most) of the energy stored in the capacitor into the spark plug (through a "condenser" coil) to ignite the fuel/air mixture. The CDI is typically a separate piece from the rotor and stator.

Hope this helps,

  • dhowell

Posted June 11, 2001 - 10:42 AM


So does that mean I would need the WR CDI as well as the stator and rotor to complete the switch?

  • dhowell

Posted June 21, 2001 - 03:45 AM


From what I am being told the stator and rotor will do it. I will send updates after this project gets on the way (probably another month or so). Thanks for all your input.

  • Dan_YZF

Posted June 21, 2001 - 02:02 PM


Forget it, you'll fry your YZ CDI unit

Some have tried this and ended up buying WR CDI after their YZ CDI failed

my 2cent

good luck

  • dhowell

Posted June 22, 2001 - 02:50 AM


Thanks for the warning. This changes things a bit since the WR CDI is about $200. I was really did not want to put that big ugly E-Line unit on my bike. Decisions, decisions.

  • techman

Posted June 22, 2001 - 04:22 PM


There are a few advantages to getting the E-Line. It's 200 W, which means you can hook up grip warmers for winter riding, run other lights and accessories without worry, and put bigger lights that actually enable you to ride confidently at night.

Another reliability advantage is that your original YZ wiring and ignition are 100% untouched and electrically separate from the E-Line arrangement. If your wiring pukes, or you make a mistake, etc your bike will keep running 100% as before.

Yes, it sticks out a bit but you get used to it.

Anything less than 50 W of headlights at night is looking for a good crash and/or serious eyestrain. I personally have either an 85W, 2x50W or all on (185W!) headlighting system. Night riding is a certain kind of peculiar pleasure/experience if you have adequate lights, an expansion on your normal perceptions of dirt riding.

Good luck

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