converted 09 yz to 09 wr 450 now i got problems help please

6 replies to this topic
  • Sprenkel86

Posted July 18, 2011 - 07:47 PM


I converted my 09 yz 450 to a 09 wr 450 my changing crank wr wiseco, stock wr flywheel, trail tech stator and regulator and small battery, wr sidecover, wr wireing harness, wr sifter, dynatek cdi, how cams stage 1 yz cams wiseco hi compression piston, wr netural switch. Ok the bike starts but its very hard to start. When idleing is sounds great but as soon as you give it alittle gas is cuts out and backfires. The head light i bought and wired up to the tusk lighting kit is very dim when u give it gas it gets dimmer. The clutch arm hits the starter housing. Anyone done one of these conversions? Also i have to small black wires going into one plug back by the battery dont have a clue what its for. Is the timing different on a wr to yz?

  • grayracer513

Posted July 19, 2011 - 06:56 AM


I assume you are using the WR ignition cover without the starter motor, but still have the YZ clutch release arm and cable. If so, you may be able to grind for clearance on either the arm or the case or both. Otherwise, you'll need to convert to the WR clutch cable and release arm, which routes over the top of the engine and own behind the cylinder, pulling from the other direction.

... trail tech stator and regulator and small battery, ... wr wireing harness, ...dynatek cdi, ...tusk lighting kit ...

Sounds like quite a mess. I have no idea what to tell you about that, but it looks like you've got a lot of mismatched stuff thrown in there. I'd start by downloading a manual for the year model the the WR stuff came from and sort out the wiring to start with. You may want to get with Trail Tech and see if they will help you figure out where you've gone wrong on their charging system.


The cam timing is different with each different cam, but the process of setting the cam timing to the marks is the same on all of the different YZF/WRF models. Ignition timing is controlled by the CDI, and the WR stator and harness needs a CDI for a WR, NOT a YZF. Beyond that, you could have a carb problem causing your starting and stumble issues.

  • sledtrash

Posted July 19, 2011 - 04:12 PM


Like gray said.... convert the YZ clutch arm to a WR with a WR clutch cable. Easiest way. The clutch arm is fairly cheap and you'll have to buy the guide for the WR arm as well. There is a mounting location on the cases for it and everything. The manual shows the routing info for the cable.

I just did this conversion PM me with specific questions I'll try to get as often as I can and help. A few questions did the tusk set up wire up directly into the WR harness? like a plug and play and also did you get the starter relay block for the WR?? there is a plug it on it that takes care of fuses and what not then you can hook a small 6v batter from the pole that the normal WR battery hooked to and take your power for the lighting kit from there...

any ways a detailed explaination of how you hooked it up would help.

Mine runs really crappy when the battery is low and won't start at all with a dead battery and the lights on so maybe turn off the lights and see if that helps.

More information and I can try to help.

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  • Sprenkel86

Posted July 19, 2011 - 07:41 PM


Yes im using the yz clutch cable and arm with a wr ignition cover without starter. Yes im using a wr cdi from dynatek. Thanks for the insight on the cable didnt realize they were different. I thought about cutting the top arm off and spinning it back out of the way and weld it back on but wr stuff prolly would work out better.

The tusk lighting setup is a separate harness. I hooked it up the the small 12v battery i installed. Only place the two harnesses meet is when u hook the 12v black wire from the wr stock headlight to the control switch for the headlight. Yes i got the block and hooked my 12v battery right to the pole. And my battery is fully charged.

  • Sprenkel86

Posted July 19, 2011 - 07:51 PM


Also the 4 prong starter relay is that needed if you dont use electric start?

  • sledtrash

Posted July 19, 2011 - 10:04 PM


Also the 4 prong starter relay is that needed if you dont use electric start?

I'm not sure, but my whole system worked better with that installed....

Here is a Dual sport wiring schematic....


and here is the WR schematic.... (type in year make and model stuff)

I'm assuming that you have the Stator and Reg, and CDI all mounted in normal Wr operating style meaning that it's hooked up in stock wiring like normal?

Then you've hooked up the input for the light kit to the old WR headlight power? My personal opinion I'd run the wire that goes to the switch for your headlight back to the same place your hooked that battery up to it makes a fine location for a junction block. Everything else with wiring sounds decent (personally I'd only run like the stock CDI sounds like a lot of aftermarket stuff to fail but lots of guys use them so just a personal opinion). the only thing I could think of is how powerful of a bulb did you throw in it? Not sure what the trail tech stator put's out but I'm guessing 100 AC so after it converts to DC less so if you have too powerful of a bulb or maybe a stator problem???

The thing with running your light kit off of the headlight wire is that your running it off of AC power before it gets to the regulator, so if the bulb is too big it could be drawing too much of the power. If you hook the head light in at the relay block where the battery positive goes it is running off the the regulated DC power.

Grayracer keyed me off to Rickystator. They are a great company and provide great service. I ordered a Stator from them it came with a prewired reg all ready to plug and play. Their stator puts out 120w ac and which allow's you 100 dc. Very reliable so far I've put about 20 hrs on mine this summer. After this exchange.

For the starting hard Gray had a great list. But after making sure that the wiring is all good I'd check to make sure you don't have a tilted valve shim in one of your caps... I had both of my exhaust valve shims tilted in my caps cause a major loss of compression. :smirk: took a while to figure out.

EDIT: Did you do something with the Clutch Switch? I know you said it starts hard but if the clutch switch doesn't have a continuous connection then when your in gear you won't be able to get it to start. To fix that find the plug in for the switch and soder, twist or do something to get the two wires to make a complete circuit.

here's a link to my install and Garybarr's install if you have any other questions
I followed gary's instructions and I took more pic's if needed I can draw out how I have my wiring ran.


Good luck!!!

Edited by sledtrash, July 19, 2011 - 10:24 PM.
Another Question

  • Sprenkel86

Posted July 20, 2011 - 07:13 PM


Thanks for all the help but i fixed the problem. The 2 small black wires back my the battery that go to a single plug is a ground that has to be hooked up i did not have it hooked up. It starts one kick the lights are bright and it revs fine. Now i just have to fix my clutch arm problem and im ready to ride.

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