Where's the oil going?
Posted May 30, 2001 - 04:59 PM
How much oil is it supposed to take? I would have sworn that I read 1.8 qt somewhere.... I bought 4qt of oil, used about .2qt for the air cleaner, and I have 1.5 qt left, meaning that I've poured about 2.3qt in there. After sitting 24 hours, the stick is dry. Am I misremembering what I read about the oil capacity?
Posted May 30, 2001 - 05:06 PM
You need to run your bike for about 5 minutes before you check it with the stick. Otherwise you will get an incorrect reading. You in deed have too much oil in it at this point. 1.8 liters is the capacity.
00' TT-R 125 (Hers)
91' KX-125 (Son #1)
93' CR-80 (Just sold it. Looking for another TTR125 for Son #2)
99' PW-80 (Son #3)
Posted May 30, 2001 - 05:17 PM
Yes 1.7 liters or 1.8 quarts is correct. I’m not sure how comfortable I’d be running the bike with 2.3 in there, most of that apparently inside the cases.
I also wouldn’t use motor oil to oil my filter since it tends to collect at the bottom instead of staying put to catch dirt. Depending upon what kind of oil you are putting in your engine you may also save money using filter oil.
Posted May 30, 2001 - 05:36 PM
I'm using Mobil 1 15w50, and while I'm not concerned about the money, I didn't know that motor oil had a problem staying put. I had pretty much written off the special "Air filter oil" as a scam to get people to pay more for a re-labled oil out of some concern that they were somehow getting something different. Sort of like the "Yamalube" thing that people are always talking about here: Pay more for substandard oil.
>>>Yes 1.7 liters or 1.8 quarts is correct. I’m not sure how comfortable I’d be running the bike with 2.3 in there, most of that apparently inside the cases.
Looks like I'm draining the oil again -- At least about half a quart... Just out of curiosity -- Is there a overflow hose in there or do I risk blowing seals if I start it up with too much oil?
Posted May 30, 2001 - 08:10 PM
And even though a can of K&N or PJ1 filter oil can be as much as six bucks (or more?) you can generally get quite a few oilings out of that. I may have spoken too soon about it being cheaper, but if it ain’t, the difference is too small to quibble over.
As for blowing seals you are probably okay, the crankcase is very well vented, but I have never personally been presented with this dilemma and draining it back out isn’t that difficult...
I actually have never used my dipstick. I change the oil, I know how much I put in there. I hope I’m observant enough to notice if it is leaking out or burning in significant quantities to present a problem, if I don’t then I deserve what I get.
[This message has been edited by Hick (edited 05-31-2001).]
Posted May 31, 2001 - 09:19 PM
Originally posted by Hick:
I actually have never used my dipstick. I change the oil, I know how much I put in there. I hope I?m observant enough to notice if it is leaking out or burning in significant quantities to present a problem, if I don?t then I deserve what I get.
I do the same 1.6 in before the ride 1.6 out after. Any differences spells trouble a brewin.
Posted May 31, 2001 - 09:36 PM
Engine oil on your air filter?
I don't like the fact that the filter oil is around 6 bucks either but it beats the hell out of paying for another $6k sicl!!!!
Engine oil is very thin and with the suction that this beast creates it would take a mear moment or two for it to completely suck the 15/50 out of the filter(if the thing would run that long) the carb would probably choke up long b4 that!
When I was a kid we couldn't always aford filter oil but rather than engine oil we would elect NOT to change it or use GEAR oil for my uncle's SEMI. worked ok when you are broke or poor but when you own a $6000 bike you surely must have a 5 and a 1 $bill left over from your purchase!
No I am not RIPPING on you but only adding constructive criticism.
As far as the oil change goes........
This is the first bike I've owened with two drains.
The first time I changed the oil i drained the case and added the 1500ml it calls for .
By about the 7ooml mark the oil was overflowing the spout. WHAT THE HECK??????
I rode the bike for about 1/2 hr and ran like crap.
Got to looking at the manual and found that the frame is a res for oil........and it also has a drain plug!?
Now I know!
As far as checking the oil I rarely check the oil. The reason is that I change my oil at least every 5hrs max. I always know exactly how much oil is in my bike ....1500ml.
It is a 99' 400f so it may be diff than the 00'/01' 426's
DITCH THE ENGINE OIL!!!!!!!!
PJ1 spray on is very easy to use and lasts about 20 filter changes.
That figures to about $.30 each change or deal with the carb problems for much more dinero!!!!!!!!
Just my $.02
That's not thunder ridin' your BUTT .........
It's a whole Damn HURRICANE!!!!!!
[This message has been edited by g4racing (edited 05-31-2001).]
Posted May 31, 2001 - 03:13 PM
If you havn't already, pull the crankcase and frame plug and drain it all back out. If you start it and then pull the dipstick shortly after, you'll get a geyser of oil out the top.
I install 51oz when I do a case, frame and filter. If I drain the frame via the oil line connection to the case on the right side, I do 52oz.
This oil level issue is why it's also important to idle the bike shortly before you check the oil level.
Posted June 01, 2001 - 03:29 AM
When I first bought my 400 (used about a year ago), I did not know you had to run it before checking the oil. Before every ride I was adding a half quart of oil to get the level up on the stick. It would just blow out the vent tube during the ride. I thought this was normal, oops. Other than being messy, it did not seem to create any problems.
When you do go buy foam filter oil, stop at the drugstore and get some rubber gloves. That stuff doesn't like to wash off.
Pretend it's flat and give it the gas.
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