Set-up help 2011 yz450f


12 replies to this topic
  • Quernix

Posted June 14, 2011 - 08:03 AM

#1

I just pulled the trigger on a 2011 yz450f. I will pick it up next week and try to get it into (MX) race mode asap. Changing the bike mid season is a bad idea, but I had to get a new ride. To save some time I would like to profit from your experiences. Here are a few questions:

- OEM bars feel too low. Does anyone know the height, sweep of the OEM bars?
- @ 220lbs w/o gear I am planing to go with 5.0 & 60 N/mm springs, good idea? Imediate revalve necessary for a B-Vet? Valving feels preatty stiff when new.
- I will do one week of trailriding a year. Is the GYTR off-road flywheel a good idea or is a woods map good enough to go slow.
- Any ideas or must haves other than Power Tuner, longer link etc.

  • norcal_hoss

Posted June 14, 2011 - 09:27 AM

#2

I found I had to run one spring rate heavier on the shock than all my other 10 and 11 450's. A link like PC or kyb direct works well on these bikes. It lowers the rear 10mm helps i straight line stability and cornering. Its a plus imo. The stock mapping is ok if you like abrupt bottom end. Im running the Jay Marmont map and a slip on to open it up and give it little more top pull. Stock gearing works well I tried one tooth up and made second not usable for the most part. I ride mx only.
I dont know anything about a flywheel but I would plug the programmer in and go to "Monitor" and put your idle to about 2000 rmp's it helps with stalling.
As for a revalve of all 450's this bike is the last one I would think needs a revalve. I had a 10 rmz 450 with RG3 Diamond kit on it and it was really good. But on the yz I dropped the oil from 350cc to 330cc and put the link on and its as good as anything. I had a friend do some small modifications to the stack but nothing major stock is very good. The front tire is a pos period get a dunlop mx31 or a 403 bridgestone or whatever you like to run but stock is junk. Stock chain will last a short time so be ready to get one of those and at your weight I would look into a oversize front rotor or at least a steel braided brake line. I guess im spoiled from ktm brakes but jap bikes just dont stop the way I like them too. I run the $150 oversize 280mm ebc rotor works outstanding. Also move your bar clamps up into the forward position it will open it up and make a noticeable difference.

  • rcripper

Posted June 14, 2011 - 09:32 AM

#3

i've been threw 2 ebc oversized 280mm rotors they brake awesome but for some reason on two different brands bikes the pads hang and rub way more than stock, i would look else where for oversize. my 2cents

  • Quernix

Posted June 14, 2011 - 10:32 AM

#4

I have ordered the link already. I wanted to wait with springs until I get stock sag measurements. I am running a 60 N/mm spring on my 11 ktm (250f). Hoss what do you weight, you think I need to go stiffer?

I wanted to try the Oem brakes before ordering stuff, but am ready to go for a 270 kit (Braking and Goldfren is very common here) and steel lines if neccessary.

Same for exhaust. I would like to play with the tuner and see if I find good results before ordering an exhaust or slip on (Akra or PC is what I can get here easily). Has your slip on tamed the infamous "bark off idle" everyone is talking about. I am a little scared of that...

Stock gearing in Euroland is 13/49 and we get Pirelli MidSoft as OEM tires ;-)

  • RJacks

Posted June 14, 2011 - 11:51 AM

#5

I found I had to run one spring rate heavier on the shock than all my other 10 and 11 450's. A link like PC or kyb direct works well on these bikes. It lowers the rear 10mm helps i straight line stability and cornering. Its a plus imo. The stock mapping is ok if you like abrupt bottom end. Im running the Jay Marmont map and a slip on to open it up and give it little more top pull. Stock gearing works well I tried one tooth up and made second not usable for the most part. I ride mx only.
I dont know anything about a flywheel but I would plug the programmer in and go to "Monitor" and put your idle to about 2000 rmp's it helps with stalling.
As for a revalve of all 450's this bike is the last one I would think needs a revalve. I had a 10 rmz 450 with RG3 Diamond kit on it and it was really good. But on the yz I dropped the oil from 350cc to 330cc and put the link on and its as good as anything. I had a friend do some small modifications to the stack but nothing major stock is very good. The front tire is a pos period get a dunlop mx31 or a 403 bridgestone or whatever you like to run but stock is junk. Stock chain will last a short time so be ready to get one of those and at your weight I would look into a oversize front rotor or at least a steel braided brake line. I guess im spoiled from ktm brakes but jap bikes just dont stop the way I like them too. I run the $150 oversize 280mm ebc rotor works outstanding. Also move your bar clamps up into the forward position it will open it up and make a noticeable difference.


Agreed. This bike needs changes but very minor and rider specific. The best thing is to ride the bike and make changes in small increments and to your liking before you (the OP) make any major changes and not know what works. The stock bar specs can be found on Renthal's website. I agree the stock tire is only good for bringing the bike home from the dealer. 404/403 Bridgestone is what I use. I've tried minor changes to the suspension internally, and have changed settings a few times and I've been happy. I see a lot of people post about flywheel weights for the 10-11, but I think the tuner can do what most people want out of it.

  • Chazmagnum

Posted June 14, 2011 - 08:10 PM

#6

Get slip-on asap, stock front tire is good for breaking levers and bending bars. At your weight I would recommend revalveing. Jay marmot map. bar clamps all the way forward. rc high bars. Bridgestone 403/404 12.5 psi. Good luck:ride:

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  • YamaLink

Posted June 15, 2011 - 07:48 AM

#7

The stock bars were too "small" for me, too, and I'm under 6 feet. Slipping in a set of 5mm aluminum spacers solved that issue.

  • Quernix

Posted June 15, 2011 - 08:12 AM

#8

'Will try the spacers, as well. There seems to be enough thread left at the bolts.

  • jgwakeup

Posted June 18, 2011 - 12:19 AM

#9

I'd like to know how the bike compares coming off a 10 rmz. I'm thinking about doing the switch but am curious how you like or dislike it comparing the two.... Thanks for the input!

I found I had to run one spring rate heavier on the shock than all my other 10 and 11 450's. A link like PC or kyb direct works well on these bikes. It lowers the rear 10mm helps i straight line stability and cornering. Its a plus imo. The stock mapping is ok if you like abrupt bottom end. Im running the Jay Marmont map and a slip on to open it up and give it little more top pull. Stock gearing works well I tried one tooth up and made second not usable for the most part. I ride mx only.
I dont know anything about a flywheel but I would plug the programmer in and go to "Monitor" and put your idle to about 2000 rmp's it helps with stalling.
As for a revalve of all 450's this bike is the last one I would think needs a revalve. I had a 10 rmz 450 with RG3 Diamond kit on it and it was really good. But on the yz I dropped the oil from 350cc to 330cc and put the link on and its as good as anything. I had a friend do some small modifications to the stack but nothing major stock is very good. The front tire is a pos period get a dunlop mx31 or a 403 bridgestone or whatever you like to run but stock is junk. Stock chain will last a short time so be ready to get one of those and at your weight I would look into a oversize front rotor or at least a steel braided brake line. I guess im spoiled from ktm brakes but jap bikes just dont stop the way I like them too. I run the $150 oversize 280mm ebc rotor works outstanding. Also move your bar clamps up into the forward position it will open it up and make a noticeable difference.



  • norcal_hoss

Posted June 18, 2011 - 04:45 PM

#10

I'd like to know how the bike compares coming off a 10 rmz. I'm thinking about doing the switch but am curious how you like or dislike it comparing the two.... Thanks for the input!


Two totally different bikes. The YZ is like a Cadillac compared to the rmz. I do like the rmz's but there so cramped feeling to me just like the new Honda's are. I had all 5 brand 450's last year. Went back to the yz at the end.
Motor: The rmz is a bit broader where the yz is pretty aggressive off the bottom. Unlike the rmz you can get the programmer for the yz and tame it down some. It does work for sure I play with mapping often depending on what track and the conditions. The yz has more of an explosive power band where I thought the rmz was a lot smoother with good over rev.

Suspension: I guess depends on the feeling you like. Personally I like KYB more than Showa from the oem. On the yz you can easily get away from a revalve. The yz does not suffer from mid stroke harshness that bad like the rmz did. I dropped the oil 20cc in the forks , sprung it and it was as good as my rg3 diamond kit suspension on the rmz. Both handle well but the yz is definitely feels more planted and stable to me. The rmz is a turning machine but usually with sharp handling comes other issues when your wide open on rough straights or sand but I think all around the rmz works well. The yz corners well, getting the bike set up is key. I run a link so I play with the sag numbers more. I like it at 102mm with the link.

Build quality : No comparison the YZ is hands down the winner in every way. Clutch is better on the yz also. I think the rmz's get clapped out easier and quicker than the yz does. Just my opinion and im not hating on the rmz's id buy another in a heart beat.
The yz is wider at the tank but its not noticeable when riding at least not for me. The cockpit of the yz is adjustable with the forward mounting triple clamps. I put 5mm+ spacer and the factory KTM bars (High very straight bend) and some fastway lowboy pegs and the bike is very comfy for me now. I basically do the same exact mods to every bike I get. Bars, over size rotor, suspension (at least springs and oil) chain and sprockets and front tire if needed. The Yz and Kawi fit me best I feel more confident on them because they handle well and the chassis seems to react slower than the rmz and crf does .

  • todds924

Posted June 20, 2011 - 07:49 PM

#11

Two totally different bikes. The YZ is like a Cadillac compared to the rmz. I do like the rmz's but there so cramped feeling to me just like the new Honda's are. I had all 5 brand 450's last year. Went back to the yz at the end.
Motor: The rmz is a bit broader where the yz is pretty aggressive off the bottom. Unlike the rmz you can get the programmer for the yz and tame it down some. It does work for sure I play with mapping often depending on what track and the conditions. The yz has more of an explosive power band where I thought the rmz was a lot smoother with good over rev.

Suspension: I guess depends on the feeling you like. Personally I like KYB more than Showa from the oem. On the yz you can easily get away from a revalve. The yz does not suffer from mid stroke harshness that bad like the rmz did. I dropped the oil 20cc in the forks , sprung it and it was as good as my rg3 diamond kit suspension on the rmz. Both handle well but the yz is definitely feels more planted and stable to me. The rmz is a turning machine but usually with sharp handling comes other issues when your wide open on rough straights or sand but I think all around the rmz works well. The yz corners well, getting the bike set up is key. I run a link so I play with the sag numbers more. I like it at 102mm with the link.

Build quality : No comparison the YZ is hands down the winner in every way. Clutch is better on the yz also. I think the rmz's get clapped out easier and quicker than the yz does. Just my opinion and im not hating on the rmz's id buy another in a heart beat.
The yz is wider at the tank but its not noticeable when riding at least not for me. The cockpit of the yz is adjustable with the forward mounting triple clamps. I put 5mm+ spacer and the factory KTM bars (High very straight bend) and some fastway lowboy pegs and the bike is very comfy for me now. I basically do the same exact mods to every bike I get. Bars, over size rotor, suspension (at least springs and oil) chain and sprockets and front tire if needed. The Yz and Kawi fit me best I feel more confident on them because they handle well and the chassis seems to react slower than the rmz and crf does .

How high are you running your forks above the top clamp on your yz.......with the link and 102 of sag??

  • norcal_hoss

Posted June 21, 2011 - 05:55 AM

#12

Right now ive been running it in the stock position. I raised them up when I rode a bit tighter track but I like the stock height with the link. I also dont think there is a magic number with sag, everyone has there own feeling. My buddy runs his about 110 with the link the other runs his at 100mm with a link. 102-104mm is where I like it personally.

  • Quernix

Posted September 16, 2011 - 11:38 PM

#13

I would like to give everybody a short update after 30h on the bike: I couldn't be happier!

I run 5,0 & 60 N/mm springs with 365cc of Oil in the forks (=+10cc). Sag is at 30/102mm - no Link. Forkscaps are 2mm in the triple clamps. Stock valving in the forks - 2 more face shims on the rebound of the shock (this really calmed the bike braking). Stock handlebars with 3mm spacers. MXA "broad" map.
Fork: comp 10, reb 8
Shock: comp 8, reb 12, hscomp 1 5/8
for mid hard conditions.

Note that I am 220lbs intermediate rider. I can imagine that for anyone lighter or even slower the stock valving could be a problem.





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