YZ400f Quieter exhaust and different charging solution


13 replies to this topic
  • 07gtimyfast

Posted May 30, 2011 - 04:32 PM

#1

Hello, I'm new to the forum, I come from a background of XC dirtbike riding when I was younger then moved to street bikes for the last 6-7 years.

I recently picked up a 1999 yamaha yz400f to convert to a street motard comuter/ weekend dirtbike.

I have come to realize that the stock pipe on this thing is just to loud, every aftermarket pipe I have seen seems to be for "performance" or in other words "loud" Does anyone have suggestions for a quieter pipe for the street? One of my other concerns is the big label on the stock muffler saying "NOT FOR ONROAD USE Federal noise blah blah blah"

Fabing my own muffler is not out of the question as I have somewhat of a machine shop at my disposal. any tips on how to design the inside to make one quieter would be appreciated.


Now on to the second part, most of the "lighting/charging" solutions I have found seem to be swapping the stator and cdi etc with other factory parts.
I'm going to design a mini alternator charging system driven by the drive chain, this in conjunction with a onboard battery will be stand alone from the engine electronics and will charge the battery when in motion (90 percent of the time) when needed. the lights will run off the battery etc etc.

I'm going to make an LED circuit board for the tail/brake lights and led turn signals to minimize current draw and giving the headlight the majority of the power.

60 watt (5 amp) alternator would be sufficent but I will probably go with a 200 watt (16.6 amps) or 150 watt (12.5 amp) to leave room for a onboard odo/speedo computer.


downsides:
added weight
added unsprung weight to rear swing arm (~3-5 lbs)
added drag to drive chain
only charges when in motion (beware of rush hour)

If anyone has any comments positive or negative feel free to share them, I'm very open to suggestions.

Thanks,
07

  • Deadend

Posted May 31, 2011 - 09:27 AM

#2

I have the 98 of that same bike.

She's really loud, ain't she? :smirk:


I dont have any advice on the exhaust, im running a whitebros thats USFS approved w/ spark arrestor (shes my trail bike) and its still really loud. I would look into something like Supertrap or something w/ baffle inserts and see how quiet you can get her without totally stealing her grunt.


Otherwise - i would recommend a quickstart hot cam. (This basically removes the de-comp lever and makes the kickstart process much easier - no pumping till TDC, etc.. ) Of course, at that part you've got a part of the head exposed, so i would wait until its time to check / maintain valve n those other goodies up top.


I dont know about your yz400f, but to describe mine as "cold blooded" is a compliment :rofl:

  • 92db

Posted May 31, 2011 - 05:41 PM

#3

http://www.fmfracing...Products/MX/380

Quiet equals FMF Q4 hands down.

  • 07gtimyfast

Posted May 31, 2011 - 06:19 PM

#4

Wow that Cam actually sounds great, I just read about them. I will definatly be picking the exhaust cam up. It's time to do the maintance now as I just bought the bike, I'll throw the cam in when I adjust the valves.

What type of oil runs best in these bikes? I use bel-ray semi synthetic in my street bike but I'm not sure what works best in these.

I'll look into the Q4, I'm also on the fence about parting out my zx9r and if I do I might try to fit the yoshimira muffler to the yz maybe shorten it alittle if it's too quiet.

Thanks guys!

  • Deadend

Posted June 02, 2011 - 02:10 PM

#5

Those in the know.... use Rotella

its about 13$ a gallon of the stuff. Be sure to get the "Rotella T" formula, as its the best for moto engines.

Thank me again later when you've saved over 100$ in just oil after about 20hrs riding

  • allupinsydeyou

Posted June 09, 2011 - 11:54 AM

#6

ive got this same bike just the wr version. exhaust was really loud as well so i built my own basing and using parts of the cr250f twin can exhaust. quieted it down a TON and was still a rather rowdy bike. with a little jetting will run absolutely amazing!

and as far as charging, just swap out to a wr stator and flywheel. 120 watts at 5k rpm or some shit like that. powers my HID headlight, LED tail lights, and halogen blinkers and whatnot just fine. i run a ttr battery in my airbox (the little 2 inch wide by 3 inch tall by 5 inch long battery) and it will charge that guy up no problem and lights wont flicker at all when idling.

  • 07gtimyfast

Posted June 09, 2011 - 01:17 PM

#7

ive got this same bike just the wr version. exhaust was really loud as well so i built my own basing and using parts of the cr250f twin can exhaust. quieted it down a TON and was still a rather rowdy bike. with a little jetting will run absolutely amazing!

and as far as charging, just swap out to a wr stator and flywheel. 120 watts at 5k rpm or some shit like that. powers my HID headlight, LED tail lights, and halogen blinkers and whatnot just fine. i run a ttr battery in my airbox (the little 2 inch wide by 3 inch tall by 5 inch long battery) and it will charge that guy up no problem and lights wont flicker at all when idling.



Thanks for you input, I have been keeping my eye on ebay etc for a wr stator and flywheel but no luck so far, I really don't want to spend $500 for a new one. I have the complete wr electical system I found on ebay cheap and went ahead and snatched it up it has all wires, coil, cdi, regulator, batterypack etc. I'm not exactly sure how to wire it as the wiring diagram for the WR looks like the lights are AC? and how does it charge the battery with ac voltage? also the battery pack does not have wires coming out of it which stumped me alittle. Also what year is your bike that has a 120 watt stator? I thought they were around 80 or so. Thanks for any help you can provide I'm looking to get this thing on the road.

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  • allupinsydeyou

Posted June 10, 2011 - 06:11 AM

#8

Thanks for you input, I have been keeping my eye on ebay etc for a wr stator and flywheel but no luck so far, I really don't want to spend $500 for a new one. I have the complete wr electical system I found on ebay cheap and went ahead and snatched it up it has all wires, coil, cdi, regulator, batterypack etc. I'm not exactly sure how to wire it as the wiring diagram for the WR looks like the lights are AC? and how does it charge the battery with ac voltage? also the battery pack does not have wires coming out of it which stumped me alittle. Also what year is your bike that has a 120 watt stator? I thought they were around 80 or so. Thanks for any help you can provide I'm looking to get this thing on the road.


you have to run the rectifier for the electrical system. and i would honestly junk that battery if it is the one that looks like 8 or 10 AA battery's connected together. thing is crap. they wont hold charge. i have a 2000 wr and supposedly its a 120w system at 5k rpm. i would honestly suggest the wr stator and flywheel over custom fabbing out a alternator that is chain driven and then also have to set up the rectifying circuit on it and have that added weight. i just grabbed a wr stator for 75 off ebay so just keep your eyes open. they do exist man.

  • 07gtimyfast

Posted June 15, 2011 - 12:09 PM

#9

scrapped the charging idea, smallest "mass-production" alternator you can get is around 25 amps. way too much. But I found a e-line on ebay got it for about $90 shipped,

since the eline has 2 seperate ouputs I'm thinking of running 2 seperate reg/rec to 2 seperate batteries, one for the headlights and one for everything else. wiring will be a bit more difficult but I think it would make the system more effecient as parrallel reg/rec on one battery would not load share very well. It would also allow me to run higher watt lights.

  • allupinsydeyou

Posted June 15, 2011 - 12:30 PM

#10

you forget that the lights are really the only thing that need aux power right? run the ttr110 battery (i believe thats what it is, ill check for you if you would like me to) that i am running in the airbox. single output from a stock stator and i light up my 55w HID and all blinkers, horn, etc no problem at all.

  • 07gtimyfast

Posted June 15, 2011 - 12:40 PM

#11

you forget that the lights are really the only thing that need aux power right? run the ttr110 battery (i believe thats what it is, ill check for you if you would like me to) that i am running in the airbox. single output from a stock stator and i light up my 55w HID and all blinkers, horn, etc no problem at all.



Yes I see what you mean but this way I could run dual 50w headlights or a single 100w off the one circuit and blinkers,tail, brake + vapor computer + whatever else I want to connect to it like cell phone charger or .... I mean why waste the power you could be using. Also pushing that much power to a reg/rec without using most of it will cause alot of heat to be disipated by the heat sink.

Most that I have seen just run all the aux lights off one of the eline circuits, but why not split it up and have daylight making headlights at night?

Just for FYI I do about 90% of my riding at night especially during the summer months.

  • allupinsydeyou

Posted June 15, 2011 - 12:58 PM

#12

that may be smart. i just always stick with keeping it simple. i run a 35w running light on my bike with the 55w HID and all other normal doo-dads and it seems to do fine. maybe your on to something but i would think that with that much more complexity to the harness, makes it harder to chase down wiring issues later.

  • 07gtimyfast

Posted June 15, 2011 - 01:24 PM

#13

I see your point, as there will be extra wiring but a good (home made) harness should make trouble shooting very easy, It could also make it easier to track down a problem, with only one circuit having reg/rec, battery, and light If one system went down you would know exactly which one to look at and go from there, instead of trouble shooting an entire sytem you would have 2 seperate systems and would help narrow the problem down to one or the other.

another benefit would be in a emergency situation, say your headlight reg/rec blows and you are stuck in the middle of the night, just plug the harness into the other reg/rec and you would have headlights to get home with (although your tail/brake/blinkers would only work long enough that the battery on that circuit held out, and you could jump the other battery parallel to the headlight battery and just run the low beams) but it would basically allow you to have spare/interchangable parts with you all the time. (although extra weight, its minimal and for a guy my size if I head a small dinner it would equal out haha)

I just want to have a system that makes use of the power on hand and the most capable system, with emergency backup, wouldn't it suck to get stuck out in the woods/country roads with no headlight?

  • allupinsydeyou

Posted June 16, 2011 - 10:36 AM

#14

dude.. there is a solution to that... duct tape, a flashlight, and your front fender... hahaha





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